Yes, the BK/W wires coming from the TPS, EVP, Baro, ECT, ACT and the BK/W wire at the self test connector are all spliced together at splice S151 somewhere in the harness, therefore you should have continuity between all of those sensors on that wire. However, you will only have continuity to battery ground when the EEC connector is bolted to the PCM since it grounds to pins 40 and 60 inside the PCM. If there's no continuity to battery ground or pin 40 and 60, the PCM is bad. There's no self test with an open pin 46 as well.
Any time the 60 pin harness is off the PCM or checking continuity, the key should be off but understand the harness pin 46 will be open to gnd. at this point. You should have continuity from harness pin 46 to the TPS sig. return wire as well as that wire on the Baro and EVP on the EGR if your still using it as well as the self test connector. When you plug the PCM back in, the sig. return wires at the TPS, Baro, EVP will now have continuity to battery gnd. because the pin is grounded internally in the PCM. Are you running a stick or an automatic? If you running a stick, the auto harness shouldn't be a concern as long as the pin 30 is left unhooked.
Ok at the begining of the video clip I say to check continuity from the sig. return wire at the TPS to battery gnd. Did you do this and did you get a open. If so, pull the PCM's 60 pin connector and check continuity from the 46 pin (sig. return) of the harness to battery gnd. If it has continuity, you have a burnt out sig. return connection in the PCM. A tip here is to check continuty from the the sig. return wire at the self test connector to battery gnd. If it's good, it's likely good at the PCM which again means you have a bad PCM. A damaged PCM on pin 46 may be caused by a stick shift PCM hooked to an automatic EEC wire harness. The stick PCM's don't always have a diode in the pin 30 circuit to protect it during startup (which can short out the sig. return).
Hi 86caprirs, you might be interested in my youtube video clip on checking the EEC4 TPS. It should give a better understanding of the voltages you should have. Just go to youtube and look up badshoeproductions
Through the end of summer 2010 for members only, the two volume set is $39.95 US sales and $57.95 Canadian. This two volume set shows what’s involved in swapping in a 5.0L engine to a Ford Fox bodied car. The project car used is an 88 Turbo Coupe TBird and engine is from a Explore but this video is applicable for any 5.0L and Fox platform. Vol. 1 includes engine/trans removal, suspension upgrades, cylinder head removal, camshaft installation, information on valve train geometry, cam design, assembly of the long block and reinstalling engine. Lots of tips and tidbits to be aware of when doing this swap. Vol. 2 shows the transmission and drive train going back in, hooking up cooler lines, fuel lines, water hoses etc., talk about EEC wiring, see what is reused, what is needed for a donor harness to be interfaced and getting the engine started. I included a detailed troubleshooting guide to diagnose a no start situation and suggestions on finding a misfire at idle. The last chapter is on EEC testing, perform troubleshooting on injectors and using a DVOM to test input sensors as well as explaining now they work. Throughout the video, I give enough general info on the operation of the EEC IV injection system that you should be able to get any 5.0L EFI up and running. A bonus info pack with part numbers, engine spec., drawings on how to build a piston stop TDC checker, adjustable pushrod, an adjustable test lifter, make your own EEC IV tester drawing, handy PCM and component pin out chart and helpful tips comes with the double DVD package . If your interested, just email me for a paypal invoice. badshoe@myway.com http://www.badshoeproductions.com
The turbo coil and self test wires will not be used so they can be left open. There is a number of wire changes that will need to be made for this project however. I have a video series that details the swap your doing including a large wiring and troubleshooting section. There's about 8 wires that must be interfaced to the turbos body harness to get the 5.0L harness to work.
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You say it slips, is it really slipping or just won't upshift? Is reverse ok? If it is slipping when in drive and it's full of fluid, I would say the forward clutch is gone.
Hi, Ken "BadShoe" Collins here. as you guys may know, I produce "How To Videos" related to Ford drivetrains. http://www.badshoeproductions.com My question I'm putting out there is there any interest in learning how to build your own drag race powerglide. I also plan on producing a FMX and top loader dvd in the future...Ken.
Ok, you have a column shift which uses a slightly different TV cable. You should have a cable that goes from the throttle body to a bracket with two holes in it. That bolts the the two lower bellhousing bolts. The cable's spring loaded end faces down which will snap into the bellcrank (which in turn is hooked to the TV lever) that's shown in your photo. Once all points are attached you adjust the same as in the video clip. Hope that helps.
