We have a lot of good technical engineering minds here and i wanted to know your overall impression on the new Speed of Air pistons. Real use data heafty data points lending itself to have earned the tag "New Piston Breakthrough",, just my opinion so far.
try not to focus on cost ,, many people do not know the two most expensive phases of a project are R&D as well as Customer Ownership. everything in between when an item hist the market lowers the costs of either end when said item is no longer the new thing on the market.
i am diving into this area with my 351w bronco although not the same, thanks for bringing this up. as these cars age, your host of things that can wear out or break are those things that likely nobody ever looked at before. we will be finding things that are breaking that are'nt even on a probable faults list because it takes decades or many 100k miles before they wear out.
here i s link i put together to bench test the dizzy out of the car for your use if you want to verify your ign system opertation prior to putting it to work in a car. Below are *in order* part 1 thru 7.
the one i have is likely 40years old,, maybe more. the only reason there is any damage at all is because of careless use on differnt things in the past.
they are the buy once cry once kinda thing though.
I am going to scavange ebay later tonight and see if by a small chance anyone on there is selling some. its going to be odd though because a lot of people dont know what this kind of thing is. It stands up well to knife cuts as in there is no real penetrations/marks even razor blades.
Help with what the proper naming convention is of my ESD/Soldering mat
I have had an ESD/Soldering *HARD BOARD" mat in my garage since 95 when i got out of the Navy. This was on my workbench at NAS Oceana for my entire time working micro-miniature component level repair in my avionics shop 69A. close to the days i was a short timer, the shop was getting new ESD boards for all the soldering stations and we asked if we could have them and the shop supv said he didn't care, they were classifed as consumables. I carried mine home and its been a real soldier at all the abuse you can imagine. Time has finally taken its toll but its still functional and useful.... however, I am in the market for another one to place on my newly fabricobbled dedicated electronics repair station. I am looking on line and to my surprise, seems like everything i am finding for soldering workbench mats are all silicone. Sounds inferior to me and not something that will stand up to my kind of standards and expectations of a proper soldering mat.
Here is a quick vid of what i have and i am looking for something like it. My issue is i dont know how to shop for it,, meaning i dont kno what its called believe it or not. I am now starting to believe its BakLite with maybe a cermaic coating??? I dont know but i want to at least see if i can find another. If anyone at all is familiar with soldering stations where there would be a hard board desk top mat and you know what they are called, chime in. This one in my vid was also an ESD mat but its almost indistructable.
thanks in advance for any ideas or networking me with someone who may know. see vid below
interesting numbers almost if not identical to what i was getting yet you did not get shocked which i might be alble to contribute more towards the different floor conditions especially with no shock felt. it was funny reading how you methodically safely stepped your way into a final wet finger test............
so i am going to carve out time to put my electronics repair bench back to the orginal problem state and see if i can capture the amps. that part i may need to use my small buttstuffog meter to read anything. The main reason i put so much emphisis on this is because i will be working on hot and cold chassis devices on this bench and in many cases hot components laying on this bench as well and the last thing i need is a transient screw with me. .................... which brings me to another thread i will post in the lounge pertaining to a proper esd & soldering """HARD BOARD""" mat. It seems this thing i have is a unicorn by 3m.
not actually, i was just trying to keep my money in the family so to speak..... No matter what , i have to solve this with either a pan or this other patch stuff by jb weld called high temp two part epoxy.
the two part stuff i used before had no temp rating and lasted for 1500 miles or so.
apparently the high temp two part jbweld is really good according to "project farm" on youtube and he does really intuitive testing on products.
controlling the transient was not the problem, i have that under control. I was just wondering where it was coming from even when i suppllied my very own power from a car powered inverter all the while making all wiring to the garage cold by killing the breaker in my home.
I can easilly get the pad under control and from what i have found, i see good reason to do so. its as simple as doing a core drill into the opposite sides of the floor then get lucky and get a hold of the wire webbing or rebar, cad weld or connnet that to my copper clade rod after driving what i woud like to do is drive in a pilot hole with rebar into the earth after my concrete is cleared and remove the rebar then fill my hole with salt,, then set my permanent ground rod in the hole and drive it in. tie in the floor rebar or webbing and that should do it meaning next time i have two pr0ng device its likely i wont see this transient voltage anymore
softtouch this issue was present before i made up the proper 3 pr0ng cord. The day i got shocked, i discovered this stray / transient voltage and decided i would do a vid on it when i finally got my head around what was actually happened. turns out i am still not undersanding whats happening but i do know a couple things that might help null it out.
i get what your saying and i would not have thought of it so good point,, coupling up at the wire nuts mixed with the temp two pr0ng would / could make that sort of thing possible.
I checked again today being its day 3 of decent no rain etc and can steadily holdd around 25 to 30vac. all is well with a 3 pr0ng chord though.
the main thing i forgot to mention on the vid is what the purpose of the vid was actually about. I wanted people to be aware of the dangers of 2 pr0ng devices even new items of today especially when the item has any exposed metal or exposed screw heads bonded to metal covers and such.
I am considering ideas on grounding my floor with driven ground rods. I know with a 3pr0ng cord this is likely not going to ever be an issue but I happen to work on super old electrical things all the time and the last thing i need is some random voltage being injected into it all because its raining outside or its wet. I believe the reason why i just found this problem is that its the first and only time i have had an actual metal workbench in the garage and since the issue showed itself, i look at it as a cup half full giving me an opportunity to at least correct it before hand.
what i need to do is see if i can use my metal detector to determine the exact location of rebar,, then make an opening, then drive a rod,, then weld the rebar to the rod,, Id like to do this near the area where my garage door is and another towars the long wooden workbench where all my tools are.
I am doing a part 2 on this soon to demonstrate how i sourced power from a car inverter and had all power cut off going to the garage and how the problem remained. there is something about my pad that is doing this... thats all i know at this point.
most modern slabs **MUST** have a ufer ground rod(s) which is a cad weld to the wire mesh or rebar. i am positive my slab is not grounded. the following below is what i did to further troubeshoot..............and the outcome is short of an X Files moment. I am thinking of posting this on MikeHolts forum
I killed my house main breaker feeding my garage sub panel which makes the primary feed to the garage cold. I hooked up my 2kw inverter to my 20th cougar i ran the same two pr0ng backfeed circuit from the inverter to the power strip.
THE PROBLEM REMAINED !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
since last dealing with this eec power relay, i did happen to spot it where it should be but that was on my white coug i completely overhauled going 3.8L to 5.0 & flat black paint, folding rear seat, fuel pump access hatch, subframes, dual exhaust, fuel filter relocation to engine bay, 2'' tube steel re-enforced rad core supppor & front end support so car can be towed from front or rear, mining belt pads at four points for future jacking up of car or lifts,, list of improvments go on and on including built in pop out drink HOLDER!!!!.
my point was if anyone did this,, did they remember if any wires needed extended or not. iirc, one or two wires traveled "up" wth no slack.
from what i observed, the best way to get to the relay is through the pass front speaker opening.,,, howeveer,,, you have to fabricate a tiny tool to poke into a special spot on the speaker grill in order to remove it properly. i did know this until i poped the grill off and discivered the tab. the shop manual did not mention this at all anywhere that i was able to find.
I am experimenting on doing a two piece oil pan and would like to also post the process on my youtube channel " I FIX IT ALL".
A two piece pan would allow one to remove the pan without too much trouble,, pull the two long bolts out for motor mount then jack up the engine a little bit to achieve bell housing and front rack clearance.
location is 24941 and ph 304 772 4082 ask for scott.
