Last post by softtouch -
I did not mean to imply that you needed the power cord attached to the power strip to create the crosstalk condition. Your experiments and the, fact that you did not have the power strip cord attached when you got shocked, shows just the ground wire floating in the strip is enough to have the induced voltage in the ground wire. I believe the reason the induced voltage increases with the UPS is because you have current flowing through the hot and neutral wires. With no current flow you only have sinewave activity on the hot wire. With current flow there is sinewave activity on both hot and neutral wires.
Last post by jcassity -
softtouch this issue was present before i made up the proper 3 pr0ng cord. The day i got shocked, i discovered this stray / transient voltage and decided i would do a vid on it when i finally got my head around what was actually happened. turns out i am still not undersanding whats happening but i do know a couple things that might help null it out.
i get what your saying and i would not have thought of it so good point,, coupling up at the wire nuts mixed with the temp two pr0ng would / could make that sort of thing possible.
I checked again today being its day 3 of decent no rain etc and can steadily holdd around 25 to 30vac. all is well with a 3 pr0ng chord though.
the main thing i forgot to mention on the vid is what the purpose of the vid was actually about. I wanted people to be aware of the dangers of 2 pr0ng devices even new items of today especially when the item has any exposed metal or exposed screw heads bonded to metal covers and such.
I am considering ideas on grounding my floor with driven ground rods. I know with a 3pr0ng cord this is likely not going to ever be an issue but I happen to work on super old electrical things all the time and the last thing i need is some random voltage being injected into it all because its raining outside or its wet. I believe the reason why i just found this problem is that its the first and only time i have had an actual metal workbench in the garage and since the issue showed itself, i look at it as a cup half full giving me an opportunity to at least correct it before hand.
what i need to do is see if i can use my metal detector to determine the exact location of rebar,, then make an opening, then drive a rod,, then weld the rebar to the rod,, Id like to do this near the area where my garage door is and another towars the long wooden workbench where all my tools are.
I am doing a part 2 on this soon to demonstrate how i sourced power from a car inverter and had all power cut off going to the garage and how the problem remained. there is something about my pad that is doing this... thats all i know at this point.
Last post by softtouch -
The power strip power cord is unplugged from the wall socket. Your "back feeding" of the power strip is also back feeding the unplugged power strip cord.. The floating ground/bonding wire in the power strip and power cord is picking crosstalk from the other wires. It's acting like the secondary winding of a transformer. If that power strip case is metal, it should also be connected to the ground wire.
Last post by jcassity -
most modern slabs **MUST** have a ufer ground rod(s) which is a cad weld to the wire mesh or rebar. i am positive my slab is not grounded. the following below is what i did to further troubeshoot..............and the outcome is short of an X Files moment. I am thinking of posting this on MikeHolts forum
I killed my house main breaker feeding my garage sub panel which makes the primary feed to the garage cold. I hooked up my 2kw inverter to my 20th cougar i ran the same two pr0ng backfeed circuit from the inverter to the power strip.
THE PROBLEM REMAINED !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last post by Chuck W -
Without being in front of it, it's kind of hard to remote trouble-shoot, but that is an odd scenario.
It's highly possible that metal shelf is getting a mild ground through the concrete, which can be an electrical conductor.
One of the notes I found
Quote
Concrete on grade level, because it will absorb moisture from the earth and be a good conductor in direct contact with the earth, is always considered to be at ground potential
Probably why you were getting a mild shock with wet shoes on the slab, and why you may be seeing the minor voltage potential you are.
Last post by V8Demon -
Ok. Considering that I now own THREE cars with a TFI style EFI Ford 5.0 ignition system I figure it's time to have some spare GOOD parts on hand; specifically a distributor or two.
I have 2 old/worn distributors with known bad PIP sensors. One from one of my cars, the other I grabbed for dirt cheap to swap the PIP on to use as a spare.
Anyway I figure if I'm going through the hassle of pulling the gear and shift to get to the PIP, I may as well swap out the shaft bushings as well while I'm at it. Worn shaft bushings can and WILL affect the idle quality and just off idle power due to the introduction of lateral and rotational shaft play even with known good electronics installed on the distributor and the rest of the ignition system. Been there done that.
My question is where the hell can I source the proper bushing? The earlier. 467" diameter ones are plentiful.
The ones for EFI cars it's a . 531" diameter shaft? I'm coming up with bupkis. Strange considering that you can obtain cheap knockoff aftermarket distributors brand new so with that in mind, one SHOULD be able to source the proper bushings as well.
So, anyone ever rebuild one or know a source for the bushings?
Last post by jcassity -
since last dealing with this eec power relay, i did happen to spot it where it should be but that was on my white coug i completely overhauled going 3.8L to 5.0 & flat black paint, folding rear seat, fuel pump access hatch, subframes, dual exhaust, fuel filter relocation to engine bay, 2'' tube steel re-enforced rad core supppor & front end support so car can be towed from front or rear, mining belt pads at four points for future jacking up of car or lifts,, list of improvments go on and on including built in pop out drink HOLDER!!!!.
my point was if anyone did this,, did they remember if any wires needed extended or not. iirc, one or two wires traveled "up" wth no slack.
from what i observed, the best way to get to the relay is through the pass front speaker opening.,,, howeveer,,, you have to fabricate a tiny tool to poke into a special spot on the speaker grill in order to remove it properly. i did know this until i poped the grill off and discivered the tab. the shop manual did not mention this at all anywhere that i was able to find.
Last post by Ductape91 -
Drove the tbird around for the last two days since my daily is broke and i needed to put more miles on that fuel sender and all i can say is wow, the headlights just dont light up anything on the road in the rain. The stuff they used to paint the lines with lasted years and was still visible in the rain with standard halogens but man this newer stuff is faded after months and is invisible in the rain. Had to pic up some new wipers right away and the intermitten wipers just kept stopping randomly on the windshield untill i ran the normal speed for awhile. Probably havent been used for decades so im just glad they even work. I put it back in the garage again, maybe next weekend ill drag it back out, but while i was there i finally got to use those h4 headlight replacements i bought like a year ago but threw some cheap leds in.
I hate the color, hope they wont blind people but they probably will. Well see.
