Any recommendations on a pad upgrade for stock LX rotors? I think I looked last year at Hawk and EBC, and I don't believe I found a listing for standard 10" 4 lug combo. I know I have used Centric and Monroe pads on other applications that were limited in material.
For those in Maryland Looking for something to do, we have a car Cruise that will start in Kensington at 10 AM, slowly work its way thru Poolesville and Point of Rocks, then end up on RT40 in Frederick before heading back to Montgomery County. A group of us will be heading from Westminster to Kensington to kick off the 1st leg of the trip. We are asking for $10.00 per car to be donated to The American Cancer Society. This is open to all makes and models. Any questions, just ask. Additional Information can be found on Facebook under Bruno's Classic Muscle.
I am curious if there is a switch attached to the E Brake system on my 1988 LX Thunderbird. I have moved the car a handful of times this spring, and the light would go out when releasing the E Brake. Last weekend the light did not go out. After setting and releasing multiple times and light not going out, I proceeded to roll car back and forth and then went for a ride. E Brake is definately releasing, car drove fine, fluid level in master cylinder is good, didnt come across any leaks under car. Thought I would ask the experts before poking around.
This event was posted yesterday by the group that is putting on the Foxtoberfest shows in NC. For all those in the North East that couldn't get to NC, here is your chance. Already speaking with friends in MD, looking to get a group of cars to make the trip. Then in the fall, make a run to NC.
For those of you in Maryland, PA, WV, and surrounding areas, Mason Dixon Dragway in Boonesboro has there annual Ford Event August 25th. The Car Show and Vendor portion is always good, the racing has been watered down over the last 10-15 years, but if someone wants to make a couple passes it serves the purpose.
Any leads on aftermarket seat cover replacements? Mine is a 1988 LX, light gray and unfortunately they were in good shape, but now seem to be dryrotting? Driver side has torn, passenger side OK for now, back seat seems fine.
Had an issue with my used Mass Air ECM, the Injector Driver Function went bad. After spending a couple days trying to find a vendor with A1 Cardone in stock, came to the conclusion everyone wants you to send yours in for refurbishing, instead of calling it a core. I did find another used unit, but want to send my bad unit to someone to get serviced as a spare. Does anyone have a reputable company, or do I need to just deal with A1 (out of Philly). I will also be ready to off my original Speed density unit, as I can't see a reason to have it sitting on a shelf.
I have a good friend who is preparing to buy a 30k mile Lincoln LSC, completely original, spotless car next weekend. He wants to keep it stock but wants to add a supercharger. In my years everyone always does a Mass air Conversion or stand along, but rarely are these stock engines. He doesnt want to add to the harness, or do anything that isnt easily reversible. My conversion on the t bird for mass air went so smooth, and it idles and behaves so well, but I don't believe I can convince him. He bought one of these new in the late 80's, and after many years and many other projects, I convinced him to go look at this new project. Any thoughts?
I want to thank the few here that recommended the T5 install. With the info found here and the Cool Cats forum, I rounded up enough parts and waited for a good friend to tackle the project. Fun is the word. I am glad I didn't go too deep with the AOD. I was starting to think it would take a bigger engine or a better supercharger/head combo to make it a keeper. My friend runs a G-Force in his Race Car, and still liked how well this car drove. Faith restored. Now to gets some miles racked up before winter gets here.
I need to make a decision on a transmission for my Thunderbird. Currently AOD with Column Shift. Interior is original and in good shape, and as I read old threads about T5 installs, not fond of hunting up consoles, replacing or cutting up existing seats and consoles for T5 install. I had the chance to purchase 2 complete T5 systems for a good price, but was hesitant because of these reasons. Somewhere between 350-400 HP., and not a strictly drag race project. A friend of mine who is big into 5.0 Mustangs said possibly weld a different shift lever on the T5 to lean forward more if that would help the situation. I have the means to get a good AOD thru my Work, but really likes the idea of shifting gears. Any photos or ideas would be a great help.The current trans needs replacing, has stock torque converter,etc.
Took my son back out to the track today for a Ford event at Mason Dixon Dragway. Of course the alternator gave up 20 minutes away from the track. Showed up almost 2 hours late after getting a friend to pick up my boy and head to Napa for a replacement so I could replace it on the side of the road. Got to the track in time to miss time runs and went into eliminations. Nothing good to report. Trans seems like it is on its way out. Car was sluggish at best down low and smoked. Car ran 92 miles an hour on a scrubbed pass with a 3.20 60 ft after pushing thru the beams. I expected if everything worked properly the car should have ran 102-104 MPH. Back to formula.
Getting ready to go back to the track and wanted some thoughts. For the last 25 years all my cars have had manuel valve bodies. When my son raced this car stock I had him leave it in drive, being new to racing just went from A to B. This is a LX with column shift and trans has who knows how many miles. Fluid and filter were replaced. With added power it isn't anything to right home about. Over winter I will need to entertain a rebuild with torque converter or maybe a t5 swap. So some said don't leave it in drive at WOT, that it will do damage to the trans. What do's and don't would you suggest. ALso, cable adjustment recommendations? After changing the intake, T.B. and egr spacer delete, I don't know if this is a concern. Thanks.
A friend of mine is welding up frame connectors and a few things on his lift for my '88 thunderbird. I asked him to check the bell crank set up for the colum shifter as the indicator is off. He sent me a photo of what he says is a broken gear shift selector. Is there a source for replacements or are we talking junkyard. Never played with a column shift, but I like the stock interior and really not looking to go to a floor shifter.
Several months later than I hoped, but today this thing finally started. What was to be a heads,cam,supercharger and Mass Air conversion turned into just about a full redo. Glad to say the budget that I set for $2000. would have been met if I hadn't picked up this used 306 short block. I am still far below $3000. in additions. Need to install in tank pump, swap AOD Pan gasket, and before spring buy some drag radials and do something for frame connectors. Doesn't sound like anything special, but it did idle fairly well for not adjusting timing, tps, and some old gas in the tank. Heater hose cutting loose ended the days activities. Was wanting to see if the car would idle in gear with the stock converter and this used E Cam. The wife took some phone video, I'll see if she can help me get it up. Alot of fine info on here to get me this far. On more than 1 occasion I thought about scrapping the efi and supercharger and just put on a carb and nitrous. We will see how things go from here.