We are looking to put on another cruise this fall. We had roughly 100 cars that left the starting point, and met up with a Maryland based Mustang club about 40 miles from the start. I believe a total close to $1300. was raised for the American Cancer Society. When I get another date and route agreed upon, I will post info here. With so many other events cancelled this season (Chocolate Fox, Foxtoberfest, etc) we are trying to keep something going.
Any recommendations on a pad upgrade for stock LX rotors? I think I looked last year at Hawk and EBC, and I don't believe I found a listing for standard 10" 4 lug combo. I know I have used Centric and Monroe pads on other applications that were limited in material.
For those in Maryland Looking for something to do, we have a car Cruise that will start in Kensington at 10 AM, slowly work its way thru Poolesville and Point of Rocks, then end up on RT40 in Frederick before heading back to Montgomery County. A group of us will be heading from Westminster to Kensington to kick off the 1st leg of the trip. We are asking for $10.00 per car to be donated to The American Cancer Society. This is open to all makes and models. Any questions, just ask. Additional Information can be found on Facebook under Bruno's Classic Muscle.
I am curious if there is a switch attached to the E Brake system on my 1988 LX Thunderbird. I have moved the car a handful of times this spring, and the light would go out when releasing the E Brake. Last weekend the light did not go out. After setting and releasing multiple times and light not going out, I proceeded to roll car back and forth and then went for a ride. E Brake is definately releasing, car drove fine, fluid level in master cylinder is good, didnt come across any leaks under car. Thought I would ask the experts before poking around.
Call Bill or Ed at Performance Automatic with any questions you have on their products. I have done business with them since 1990 (C4 and C6), and actually worked there in 2017 and part of 2018. Never hurts to get all the info before making a purchase.
If any of you are in the North East, Maryland Performance Center is in Maryland, and have both an engine and chassis dyno. I used to work there, and they have experience with Superchips with stock ECM, Holley, Big Stuff, Fast, Motec and more. Not cheap, and usually a wait to get in, but very talented. I know we had a few 9 second blown cars with stock ECM's that came thru the shop. I recently had a customer's Mustang with a 331 Blueprint Engine, and a dyno shop had installed the Megasquirt Plug and Play Ford kit. It didn't run bad, but had no means to make the IAC work. We got creative and came up with a system using a momentary toggle and rewire of the IAC, basically a choke for warm up. My T-bird hasn't been tuned, and has ran exceptionally well for left over parts. I have thought about many of these options if I were to build a larger engine. Wasn't familair with Moates until discussions on here a few years back, but seems interesting.
This event was posted yesterday by the group that is putting on the Foxtoberfest shows in NC. For all those in the North East that couldn't get to NC, here is your chance. Already speaking with friends in MD, looking to get a group of cars to make the trip. Then in the fall, make a run to NC.
For those of you in Maryland, PA, WV, and surrounding areas, Mason Dixon Dragway in Boonesboro has there annual Ford Event August 25th. The Car Show and Vendor portion is always good, the racing has been watered down over the last 10-15 years, but if someone wants to make a couple passes it serves the purpose.
I live in Westminster. I worked for Maryland Performance Center for 22 years (they are currently in Frederick Maryland). I now work with a bunch of former co workers at Bruno's Classic Muscle in Rockville, Maryland. Sorry in advance for de railing someone else's thread.
I worked quite a few years at a shop here in Maryland that has both engine and chassis dyno. Both were Superflow and considered top tier when purchased in the late '90's. My Cougar at the time had a 375 CI windsor that had made a little over 500 HP on another shops' engine dyno. Installed it in my car and went to the track. Car usually would run 11.50's with the best being 11.30's. When we got the chassis dyno set up, I spent a weekend tuning and could only pull 350 and change at the rear wheel. I finally decided I was more interested in the A/F and 1/4 mile E.T. than trying to figure out which dyno numbers to believe. I used to joke that I must have been the baddest guy with 350 RWHP. At 3300Lbs, it ran ok and after 2 years I built the 408 currently in the car. Never had that engine on engine or chassis dyno, as I decided I didn't want to get caught up in the numbers. New combo ran 10.80's between 123-125 MPH. We had dynoed two other 408 Engines that we built at the same time, with diferent carbs and different headers-both cars produced between 380-400 RWHP. One had a Tremec and the other a C4 with a Gear Vendors. How well the car runs and 1/4 mile performance for those that like to go to the strip are the best numbers. Dynos vary alot from shop to shop.