Yes, I've looked at the Cool Cats website. I want a cam, yes, but I just don't have the money now for that, the injectors, the computer etc. I just want to fricken drive my car! So I'm going to do the mods I have now for a while, and I think next year I'm going to do a new rear end, control arms, valve body etc. to make it handle and shift better.
The stock cam I am referring to is the stock Standard Output cam, not from a Mustang or HO motor. I'm assuming since you guys are saying it works for an HO that it will work with an SO cam? I'm not sure if the cam timing difference between the SO and HO cams has any part in making the 1.7 roller rockers work for the HO cam but not the SO cam, so I'm curious.
I don't mean to keep posting stupid topics and I didn't want to post another one, but I can't get a consensus on this.
I'm installing Trick Flow 170s, and I bought a set of brand new Ford Racing 1.6 roller rockers. Unfortuneately, I was sent the 1.72 ratio rockers instead. Will this be alright on my stock cam without clearance issues? I don't want to open the box which is why I ask just in case they won't work. But if I got more lift and power, then great! Eventually, I would like to get a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam as well. Of course I'll check PTV when that time comes (a few years), but I would like to know now if they'd work so I don't have to buy another set in the future. These Ford Racing rockers are hard to find new, and I'd prefer these over others.
Thanks, I may give ARP a call and see what they say. Or maybe I could get just the studs from them or something and reuse the bolts. I'll have to look at them again and see how well they can be cleaned and if they're worth reusing. One of my studs broke off in the head, so I know I need one at least.
So I removed my stock lower intake, and there are 4 studs and the rest are bolts. I want to buy a quality aftermarket bolt kit, such as ARP, but the kits I find only have one stud included. Of course, these are for a 5.0 1986-1993 mustang, and I would imagine they fit, but would it be ok to just have the one stud and the rest bolts? Or could I go all studs? For the life of me, I can't remember what each stud was connected to, I know one is for the heater tube or whatever. And what kit would you guys recommend? I really wouldn't want to spend more than 50 bucks on a set.
Also if anyone happens to be interested, I'm trying to sell quite a few of the original top end parts.
Yeah I was thinking motorcraft as well since the mishimoto ones are a little more than i wanted to spend. Anyone else got recommendations on the hose kit and thermostat?
This seems like kind of a dumb question, but I can't seem to find the answer and thought I'd double check. Should a radiator hose kit meant for a 1986-1993 5.0 fit on a 1986 Thunderbird 5.0 SO? Also what heavy duty thermostat would you guys recommend for replacing my stock unit? Mine has worked flawlessly and I've never had any cooling issues, but I'm in the process of tearing my engine down and doing some mods so I thought I might as well buy a new heavy duty one.
Thanks for the suggestion and I tried it out today, but to no avail. I think what I'll do now is take the dash to an electronics place to replace the flex cable that leads to the right side of the dash. I would attept to probably do it myself, but I feel like an electronics place would know better what to do. Plus I have no idea where to find this kind of flex cable.
Here are 2 pics of the voltage tape stuff. I belive it's called flex cable? In the 2nd pic, the arrow points to where the cable is starting to separate. I replaced the fuses that i circled in the pic. I saw in the owners manual that they are supposed to be 15, but for whatever reason there was a 10 and a 20 in those spots.
I recently got down to business fixing my full digital dash. Last year I replaced the speedo bulb cause it blew and went dark, and everything since then has been fine. Since today. All of sudden my speedo is not completely dark but is more dull then the other parts of the cluster. Checked the bulbs and they were fine. So while it was out i decided to do the 199 mph speedo mod and that went smoothly. I plugged it back in, and the speedo is still dull and now the whole right side of my dash doesnt have any readings. The right side is the one with the miles to empty and stuff. Its lit up but nothing shows up. The wiring seems ok and everythings plugged in. However, the voltage tape stuff that runs from the speedo to the right part of the dash is crimped and partially coming apart. Do you guys think this could cause the issue or is it something else? I also replaced two of my fuses cause someone put the wrong ones in them. And all the fuses seem fine cause everything in the car is working fine besides the one part of the dash. Sorry for the long post but I really want to figure out this issue!
So originally I never intended to go this route...but I found a super cheap set of e7te heads for sale. I know most people regard these as no more than paperweights, but obviously better than stock 5.0 SO heads. I have convinced myself to go aluminum a long time ago, but these heads are very tempting. My original setup was gonna be Trick Flow heads and stage 1 cam with gt40 intake, mass air conversion, etc etc. But what about a set of e7te's built to what i want, which would be 1.6 roller rockers, ported, etc? Could it be worth to buy and build them to what i want or just wait to go aluminum?
I have been researching on valve bodies and shift kits for awhile, and I am now in a spot where I need some assistance. I want a shift kit for better shifts, performance, etc., and there are A LOT of options. Right now, I'd really like to buy from Performance Automatic or SilverFox, and I see that both offer the valvebodies that have the" HOLD" feature for 1st and 2nd gear. So my question is do any of these companies or another company offer a regular shift kit WITHOUT the valve body that features the HOLD pattern? If not, would it be alright to buy a shift kit by itself and do the epoxy mod? The reason being is I dont want to buy a whole new valve body due to the cost of them, I'm a college student trying to save money afterall. Another question I have is will any of the kits I want keep the car from shifting into overdrive/4th gear just like it does with the stock valve body? I really dont want the car shifting into overdrive when Im at WOT for obvious reasons.
Yes, the throttle does not open all the way. I would like to try both of your suggestions. Will the nylon spacer still help to keep the kickdown cable from wearing out?
Hello, I recently installed a Pioneer 9033 accelerator cable on my 86 bird 5.0. It took many attempts to get the right cable, and I got pretty frustrated with finding the right one, and now that I have it installed, it seems to be the same as it was before. The pedal seems harder to kick down as it should be, and there is lots of play. The cable definitely seems to be the right length. I based my knowledge that I needed a new one from having the same characteristics that was said on the coolcats website. My old cable looked exactly like the picture, and now the new one looks the same. Please help! Thanks
