Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Topic: Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams?? (Read 8612 times) previous topic - next topic

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #15 – September 21, 2014, 10:04:51 AM

if your some reason your factory Ammeter is not working, go to my diy link to convert the gauge to a volt meter,, but tell us If your factory ammeter is non-functional.
until someone else chimes in with a converted 2.3L 3g upgrade complete with no issues, proceed with kid gloves.

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #16 – September 21, 2014, 10:30:37 AM

Jay the prints you posted are exactly the same as i have posted. Only more complicated. Absolutely no difference if the regulator A punching has constant battery or switched battery for regulator power up; Once again you are over complicating a simple wiring issue. To prove my point how do you think ONE WIRE ALTERNATORS ARE WIRED just saying

The shunt is because the TC has an AMMETER!!!!!!!!!!! The AMMETER is a micro voltmeter and needs a shunt to work as an ammeter. All ammeters are shunted. They never work anyway on the TC. That is anyway other than on my car!!!!! If you want the AMMETER to work you need to wire it in parallel that is the shunt across the meter from a point that monitors all current draws from and to the battery. . This way the ammeter actually a micro volt meter can sense current draw or charging voltage. The reason the factory ammeter is bad is because the shunt is in series with the wrong terminal that does not sense loads properly . A voltmeter is always better because alternators are not current regulated they are VOLTAGE REGULATED. As you point out a voltmeter is always better to monitor a charging system. And your mod on that is a very good one. By the way you can also install a gen light very easily that i recommend. The light always gets your attention immediately Have a great day.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=Chrome+Ford+200+Amp+1+Wire+3G+Large+Case+Alternator

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #17 – September 21, 2014, 08:15:56 PM

the drawings are to assist in the user to compare the Before and After **to include** some of the existing wiring of the fuse links ect... it lets someone see downstream and compare their harness to the alternator. it was a request we all felt at the time was a good idea to include wiring you are not going to cut or handle but "see" how everything is connected , so therefore it does have some top heavy appearances.

as your picture shows,,,, your photo is a 2.3L specific wiring layout and is not to be used for the 5.0L. Your photo swaps the I and S terminals correctly for this unique engine harness.

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #18 – September 23, 2014, 09:00:12 PM

Ok, my wiring was a bit different than I expected to see. I didnt have a white/black at all. I ended up running a new wire from the post on the alt to the positive battery post, and used the green and yellow wires on the D plug to head back to the car. Then I snipped the S wire, which was solid black and jumped that over to the stator. I checked everything over and started the car. Its still a bit weak at idle but I think that is because the pulley on the new alt is noticeably bigger. Ill prob swap that out to a smaller pulley. Otherwise all was well I could drive the car with the lights and electric fans on without the voltage dropping. The other thing I need to do is wire in a 125 A fuse between the alt and battery. If I missed something let me know.

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #19 – September 27, 2014, 10:02:58 AM

re-looking at this whole thread,,
your chassis harness is an 87TC from what you mention.

your saying on your 87 harness there is no white black on the D connector for the alternator?
post your D connector colors exactly as they are please, I think this is note worthy.,,,, I can collect all the TC peoples input and edit post 50 of the 3G sticky inside the greatest hits section, add specific TC color wires. Seems to me the TCs had enough differences to dospoogeent. Most who are 3.8 or 5.0 transition the 3g in without any major hang ups... not saying yours was, its just not a good idea to let these real time discoveries go undospoogeented.

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #20 – September 27, 2014, 02:12:31 PM

I am loosing my mind the way you are complicating this swap JAY. Once again look at how i do it then do it no matter what year what car what planet the alternator is on. All it needs is to be hooked up as i posted. and go for a drive. Like i said you do not even need to increase the wiring to the solenoid. have a great weekend guys

Jay seriously how do you think the guy at the auto store checks an alternator on the machine> Does he have a TURBO COUPE SETTING ON IT. Common think this out more seriously and look at how i do it. Clean neat simple and it works. No need for all that foolishness and wiring nightmare.

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #21 – September 28, 2014, 01:06:27 AM

Quote from: croga001;438260

Ok, my wiring was a bit different than I expected to see. I didnt have a white/black at all. I ended up running a new wire from the post on the alt to the positive battery post, and used the green and yellow wires on the D plug to head back to the car. Then I snipped the S wire, which was solid black and jumped that over to the stator.

The white/black wire from the stator output to the S on the regulator is only used with the dash warning light. Your car has an ammeter and no warning light.
If you had followed the black wire you snipped back into the harness you would have found it didn't go anywhere. It just dead ends.
Jumping the stator output to the regulator S makes the instructions work for any car. In your case, it doesn't do anything for you but it doesn't hurt anything either.

I remember reading in a Ford shop manual the recommended way to disconnect the cable is to pull on the wires.
I think they put the black wire in there to spread the stress of doing that across 3 wires instead of just 2.

Hope that helps clear up any confusion.

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #22 – September 28, 2014, 08:38:22 AM

Once again this is CRAZY. Maybe i am missing something here. But here we go.

S terminal is needed to provide the regulator with charge info. Absolutely mandatory with or without a light or gauge
A terminal gets un-switched Battery from anywhere in the car. Best place is heavy charge lug on the unit
I terminal is used for the indicator lamp or goes to Start and run Key battery. Finished Done case closed. makes no difference what car it is in what engine is turning it or weather it has a light or gauge. Hope this clears it up

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #23 – September 28, 2014, 01:47:39 PM

I am going to have to disagree with you on this Tom.

Quote from: TOM Renzo;438389

S terminal is needed to provide the regulator with charge info. Absolutely mandatory with or without a light or gauge

Notice that in the 87 2.3 diagram below that the stator output on the alternator is not used. The regulator S terminal has a wire that goes nowhere.

Quote

A terminal gets un-switched Battery from anywhere in the car. Best place is heavy charge lug on the unit

Ever wonder why the engineers that design the thing never run the reg A terminal wire directly to the alternator output?
The regulator controls the field current to keep the voltage it "sees" on the A terminal at the regulated voltage (14.5v). They like to sense this voltage closer to the load.
You can argue whether it makes a nickel's worth of difference or not in this application. It would be more important if the load was 50 feet from the alternator instead 1 foot. But for what it is worth, that's why they do it.

Quote

I terminal is used for the indicator lamp or goes to Start and run Key battery.

Voltage on the regulator I terminal turns on the regulator through the "indicator switch" in the regulator.
Voltage on the regulator S terminal turns on the regulator (or keeps it on if it is already on) and opens the indicator switch.

With a warning light, keyed voltage is through the light to the I terminal, through the indicator switch to turn on the regulator.
When the alternator is up and running, stator voltage on the S terminal opens the indicator switch and takes over keeping the regulator turned on. The indicator switch opening turns off the warning light.

If you look at the 86 2.3 wiring you will see that they run the keyed voltage to the regulator S terminal and leave the I terminal open.
It is these variations from year to year and differences between turbo and non turbo that that causes confusion.

87 2.3 turbo diagram:

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #24 – September 28, 2014, 07:36:50 PM

If you do not believe me read this then i will post where it came from. Once again you and JAY are complicating this for absolutely no reason. I have done most likely 100 or more of these conversions in every conceivable Ford vehicle and also trucks. Have a great evening guys

Even though this is an old thread others may need it...

Yes, you need a heavy cable (6GA or better) from alt to solenoid
S (BLK/WHT) Goes to the spade on the alternator (stator)
A (Yellow) Jumps to the Big Bolt on the Alternator (B+ or Batt)
I (Lt.Grn/Red) 12V Switched/Ignition gen indicator lamp in the dash

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #25 – September 29, 2014, 02:50:22 AM

The fact that a standard 60amp alt melts two 10 guage wires means the stock power wire should be upgraded. I see no reason to reused wiring with a new alt that was subpar with less then half the amprage.

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #26 – September 29, 2014, 01:25:33 PM

Tom; Did you even read what I posted?

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #27 – September 29, 2014, 05:09:40 PM

Haystacks it is not the wires that melt it is the plug arrangement and the spade terminals. Because the replacement alternator that replaces that unit comes with a electrical eye and a bolt and stud mount for the heavy battery cable and in fact uses the stock wiring that is more than adequate even gor an update. Once again an alternator does not put out full power 100% of the time. I have explained this numerous times before. The factory wire is adequate . I have converted at least a 100 ford vehicles over the years. have a great evening guys

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #28 – September 29, 2014, 08:13:50 PM

Quote from: TOM Renzo;438433

Haystacks it is not the wires that melt it is the plug arrangement and the spade s. because the replacement alternator that replaces that unit comes with a electrical eye ans in fact uses the stock wiring that is more than adequate even gor an update. Once again an alternator does not put out full power 100% of the time

tom, quick question..............
in your photo you show,,,,, and I mean only you photo............

are you saying this mod works on all fords no matter what?

if yes.. tell us more.
tell us what year cars, engines ect.

if your saying this D connector wire arrangement works on 5.8L, 5.0L 3.8L, 4.6L, 2.3L from 1983 up to (insert year here), then tell us.

I am open to new experiences for sure....

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #29 – September 29, 2014, 11:48:17 PM

Since my car was swapped im not sure its a good idea to use as an example for others. Like I said the wiring was different than I expected to find for an 87. On a side note I did drive the car about 150 miles sunday and it never gave me any issue. I still have to swap to the smaller pulley when it arrives, then I will see how the car reacts with all the accessories on at idle. It felt really good to be behind the wheel again, hear the motor, and pick my own gears!