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Messages - JeremyB

2101
General Fox T-Bird/Cougar Discussion / Re: serpentine belt question for 88 cougar 5.0
Quote from: Paul Flockhart
Total HP gain might be 2 or 3 HP.
The horsepower gain is negligible. When the A/C clutch is not engaged, the pulley is spinning freely on a bearing. The A/C eliminator kit is also a freely spinning bearing. The upside is that you'll reduce weight and have a better F/R weight split.
2104
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars WANTED / Re: A/C and PS Accessory Brackets for 3.8L
Although my 1985 Helm manual never says it right out, I think you're right that the 6P148A and the FS-6 have the same mounting points. The only real difference seems to be that the 6P148A has a pressure port on the suction side and the FS-6 doesn't. No biggie since the suction hose has a port anyways. 

Between looking at my Chilton, Helm and this website, it looks like the FS-6 was used from 1982-1984, and the 6P148A was used from 5/85-1/86. I'll change my original post to show this.
2105
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars WANTED / A/C and PS Accessory Brackets for 3.8L
I'm looking for the A/C and power steering accessory brackets for a 3.8L. Specifically, the brackets for a car with a FS6 or 6P148A compressor. The FS6 was available from 1982-84, the 6P148A from 5/85-1/86.

I'm trying to retrofit the system to R134a. The HR980 has viton seals, which are incompatible with R134a. Anybody happen to have these brackets lying around?

Here is the $999 retrofit kit from partsamerica.com.
2107
Drivetrain Tech / Re: Toying with T5 swap behind 3.8
I went by a machine shop this morning and the guy there said he should be able to rebalance a 3.8 flywheel to the 5.0 spec for ~$100. Now I need to scare up some flywheels. So...94-99/00 Mustang 3.8s have the same imbalance as 83-88 Tbird/Cougar 3.8s, correct?
2108
Engine Tech / Re: O2 Sensors/Rough Idle?
Does it idle rough/hesitate while cold/warm, or only when it has warmed up? An O2 sensor can cause both of these problems but the effects will only occur once the vehicle is warmed up.
Is it throwing any codes?
2110
Engine Tech / Re: Intake Gasket woes
Quote from: Ifixyawata

So, to recap:

...
...
How much RTV should be applied to the gaskets?  In what fashion?
Use RTV sealant on blue silicon endseals?

I applied a small amount of RTV to fill up the pitted areas by the water passages. I also sprayed the head surface with gasket adhesive.
Ditch the silicon end seals and use a run of RTV in its place. The silicone seals have a habit of leaking.

Quote from: cougarcragar

When I changed my upper intake, I did the ol' line & loop thing on the gasket with the sealant (single line and ring around bolt holes).

The upper intake gasket is meant to go on dry. Using RTV shouldn't hurt, but it'll make it harder to clean the next time you take off the upper.
2111
Engine Tech / Re: Head gasket longevity?
I've got one 3.8 with 125k on the original gaskets, the other has 213k on the original gaskets.

If you have absolutely no external coolant leaks, but you mysteriously lose small amounts of coolant, chances are your head gaskets are weeping (A precursor to outright failure). Other than that, there isn't much you can do to find out their current condition.
2112
Engine Tech / Re: A possibly expensive question.
I recommend throwing away the intake end gaskets and using a bead of silicone instead. The end gaskets (especially the rear one) have a propensity for leaking.
2113
Misc Tech / Re: Manifold swap with a side of heater core failure
Although it could be a coincidence, you probably compromised the core when you put the hoses on/off. No biggie; at least the core lasted as long as it did. It took me 9+ hours the first time I replaced my core and 4.25 hours the second time I changed it. I am very slow/thorough. Eric's walkthrough covers everything you need. One thing I would recommend is to install a heater core inlet orifice if your car doesn't already have one. Ford P/N E7VY-18D358-A, also available from PPI. It can't be emphasized enough: don't buy anything but a factory Ford replacement core. The only reason I've changed my heater core twice is because I used an Autozone core the first time.
2114
Suspension/Steering / Re: How do Mustang UCA/LCA lengths compare to Fox T-bird/Cougars
Quote from: andrew beedle
I am not one to race my car but I seem to think theres no reason to reinvent the wheel. Fords original design was good in my opinion it was just really sloppy because of the rubber bushings used but the intent was probably more toward comfort then handling. If you want a expert opinion I would say stick to what chuck w says because he has the experience to back up his knowlege from working at Kenny Brown.

I was just wondering because I saw in another thread that you were fabbing up some LCAs/UCAs with solid bearings in both ends. Solid bearings in the UCAs won't help with cornering (drag racing is another story, but I'll stick to lateral performance).
2115
Suspension/Steering / Re: How do Mustang UCA/LCA lengths compare to Fox T-bird/Cougars
Quote from: Chuck W
The floor pans are "similar"
The Tbird lower arms are about 3/8"-1/2" longer than the Mustang ones.  Don't remember exactly how long as it's been a while, but I did have them side by side on the bench at the shop when we R&D'd the TBird control arms at KBs.

I do remember that the uppers at 1 1/8" longer (10.25" vs 9.125").


Hmm, seeing as Mustang and T-bird UCAs leave the axle at the same angle (laterally), the distance between the upper UCA mounts will be a bit wider on the T-bird than the Mustang. Looks like the chassis mount of the Tri-link won't work. Correct?

Quote from: Chuck W

What are you planning on for a lateral locator?  The TBird gas tank is a big SOB and can get in the way of alot.


An MM or Griggs panhard bar should work.

Quote from: andrew beedle
I was looking in to there tri link to but one thing I was somewhat concered about was the mouting bracket for the axle it self. I looks as if there could be some clearance issues on a lowered car so I decided to stick with fords original design but make all my control arms out of dom tubing with spherical bushings. 

Although the Tri-link is hot off the press, nothing I've read has mentioned anything about clearance issues. My only worry is the sheetmetal tearing from the chassis mount. The mount does channel loads into the UCA boxes, but I'm not sure if it’s enough.
Do you autocross/open track/drag race?