Last post by jcassity -
Help with what the proper naming convention is of my ESD/Soldering mat
I have had an ESD/Soldering *HARD BOARD" mat in my garage since 95 when i got out of the Navy. This was on my workbench at NAS Oceana for my entire time working micro-miniature component level repair in my avionics shop 69A. close to the days i was a short timer, the shop was getting new ESD boards for all the soldering stations and we asked if we could have them and the shop supv said he didn't care, they were classifed as consumables. I carried mine home and its been a real soldier at all the abuse you can imagine. Time has finally taken its toll but its still functional and useful.... however, I am in the market for another one to place on my newly fabricobbled dedicated electronics repair station. I am looking on line and to my surprise, seems like everything i am finding for soldering workbench mats are all silicone. Sounds inferior to me and not something that will stand up to my kind of standards and expectations of a proper soldering mat.
Here is a quick vid of what i have and i am looking for something like it. My issue is i dont know how to shop for it,, meaning i dont kno what its called believe it or not. I am now starting to believe its BakLite with maybe a cermaic coating??? I dont know but i want to at least see if i can find another. If anyone at all is familiar with soldering stations where there would be a hard board desk top mat and you know what they are called, chime in. This one in my vid was also an ESD mat but its almost indistructable.
thanks in advance for any ideas or networking me with someone who may know. see vid below
Last post by jcassity -
interesting numbers almost if not identical to what i was getting yet you did not get shocked which i might be alble to contribute more towards the different floor conditions especially with no shock felt. it was funny reading how you methodically safely stepped your way into a final wet finger test............
so i am going to carve out time to put my electronics repair bench back to the orginal problem state and see if i can capture the amps. that part i may need to use my small buttstuffog meter to read anything. The main reason i put so much emphisis on this is because i will be working on hot and cold chassis devices on this bench and in many cases hot components laying on this bench as well and the last thing i need is a transient screw with me. .................... which brings me to another thread i will post in the lounge pertaining to a proper esd & soldering """HARD BOARD""" mat. It seems this thing i have is a unicorn by 3m.
Last post by softtouch -
Kitchen counter experiment. 6 position power strip with a three pr0ng cord to a 2 pr0ng receptacle adapter. The power strip ground is isolated from the receptacle ground.
Pwr strip ground: to neutral 35.6v, to hot 48.2v, to a screw on the oven door 36.6v Pwr strip ground: thru a toaster and ammeter on 20ma scale to screw on oven door 0 ma. Pwr strip ground: thru ammeter on 20ma scale to oven door screw 0 ma Pwr strip ground: thru my wet finger to oven door screw, no shock
Removed the 2 pr0ng adapter, outlet ground connected to pwr strip ground. 0v between pwr strip ground and oven door screw.
Don't know whats making the o in pr0ng come to up capital or zero?
Last post by jcassity -
not actually, i was just trying to keep my money in the family so to speak..... No matter what , i have to solve this with either a pan or this other patch stuff by jb weld called high temp two part epoxy.
the two part stuff i used before had no temp rating and lasted for 1500 miles or so.
apparently the high temp two part jbweld is really good according to "project farm" on youtube and he does really intuitive testing on products.
Last post by jcassity -
controlling the transient was not the problem, i have that under control. I was just wondering where it was coming from even when i suppllied my very own power from a car powered inverter all the while making all wiring to the garage cold by killing the breaker in my home.
I can easilly get the pad under control and from what i have found, i see good reason to do so. its as simple as doing a core drill into the opposite sides of the floor then get lucky and get a hold of the wire webbing or rebar, cad weld or connnet that to my copper clade rod after driving what i woud like to do is drive in a pilot hole with rebar into the earth after my concrete is cleared and remove the rebar then fill my hole with salt,, then set my permanent ground rod in the hole and drive it in. tie in the floor rebar or webbing and that should do it meaning next time i have two pr0ng device its likely i wont see this transient voltage anymore
Last post by softtouch -
You should insure there is no possibility of a difference in electrical potential between any of the metal parts of this bench. They should all be "bonded" together, with bolts that make a good electrical connection. or ground wires if necessary. This should include the freezer chest that is close to the bench.
The earth ground is always going to be on your concrete floor, with varying degrees of conductivity based on moisture. You must be aware of this. As Chuck W pointed out. You might want to consider putting a rubber floor mat in front of the bench.
Last post by softtouch -
I did not mean to imply that you needed the power cord attached to the power strip to create the crosstalk condition. Your experiments and the, fact that you did not have the power strip cord attached when you got shocked, shows just the ground wire floating in the strip is enough to have the induced voltage in the ground wire. I believe the reason the induced voltage increases with the UPS is because you have current flowing through the hot and neutral wires. With no current flow you only have sinewave activity on the hot wire. With current flow there is sinewave activity on both hot and neutral wires.
