And there is the problem. I am using an LED for the light so you have to parallel it with a resistor and use a diode. I just hosed the wiring when I did it and know how to fix it but just have not had the time. Everything else works like it should so I am going to swap out the resistor that I used as I think it it bad. Basically you have to wire it like this to make things work:
Still here. Have had a really busy year with family (travel to see them, mom having to be admitted to a memory care facility, trying to talk my dad into moving in with us), buying & selling a house, wife getting a new job (best job she has had in her career), putting a new fuel system in the Mustang (old one could not keep up with the demands of the motor), and then keeping up with my projects at work. All of that kept me from getting back to my alternator not charging on the Bird after the dash project but I plan on getting back on that as I need to put the dash back together before my dad kicks me out of his shop.
I have no idea. Most likely my iPhone auto correcting me again so I edited it to "bushings".
I ran urethane bushings in my 85 TC and they came out the next weekend. To me they made the ride harsh and made the rear suspension twitchy. I had replaced the springs and dampers at the same time but I just could not deal with it as it was. Installed all new rubber OEM type bushings in the front LCA's, rear LCA's, and in the rear UCA mounts on the rear end. Problem was gone and the car rode and handled as expected.
Glad you have it back together man. I’ve been battling my Mustang for the last six months just reworking all kinds of that have over time been neglected. Hope to get it squared up here in the next couple of weeks and then drive the brakes off it this summer as it’s getting a MSPNP over the winter. Once I get that installed and dialed in I’m getting back on the Bird. It runs and drives but there is a list of I want to rework as I have the time and money now.
I want at least one of them running and driving so I don’t get withdrawals.
Just find a piece of metal tubing the same size as the rubber line and leave the check valve or extra fuel filter out of the line. You have a strainer on the pickup and already have an inline filter. Why create another pressure drop for zero benefit?
We just did this on my buddy’s 69 fastback with a 408 in it. Removed a chincy little fuel filter up by the Holley carb, replaced the inline filter before the Holley blue pump and bumped the fuel pressure at the carb from 5 psi running to 7 psi. Car is a different animal now.
So the sound will only be as good as the signal the factory head unit puts out which is by today’s standards is not all that great. The reason I say this is the only way we used to install aftermarket amps on the stock stereo was to use line output converters which convert the speaker output out of the head unit to an RCA signal. So with that you connect the LOC’s directly to the speakers wires on the back of the head unit and the signal is only as good as the electronics in your near 40 year old radio.
You will want to install two of them or one that does front and rear channels if you plan on amplifying both the front and rear speakers. This will allow you to utilize the fader on the head unit. If you want to install a subwoofer simply use a set of “Y” RCA cables so you can split the sound from either the front or rear channel depending on how you want the subwoofer to fad. I was always a fan of putting it with the front speakers.
Some of the newer amps have outputs on them to provide signal to a sub amp so the “Y”’s would not be necessary in that case.
Anyhow hope this helps and for the love of car audio ditch the factory head unit.