Hello, I have a new set of Chuck W shock mounts for sale. The car ended up leaving before I got a chance to put them on. I see someone else just posted a set recently, so I will list for same. $50 shipped in the US. Thanks
Well guys and gals, I was set on doing my 351C swap, but decided a 351W (eventually Turbo) would be a better route to go. I just got the motor that came out of 89-90 "Police Interceptor type". The nice thing is I read I should be able to use the oil pan that came with it. It also came with an AOD that I plan on using. I have a 4r70w I got from a 2000 V6 Mustang that I planned on using, but figured I would use the complete package due to cheaper cost. Maybe one day I will put the 4r70w in when I want to buy that $600 controller. The engine came out of a running car, so plan on doing just the basics for now to get it moving (oil pump, timing chain, cam + lifters, GT40 heads). Figured I would use GT40s since I would have the stock E7's rebuilt anyways as well so cost will be the same (thank you Pull-A-Part). I know I have to get the valve springs to match with the 268h cam. So the "Police" car came with a mechanical fuel pump I am pretty sure (havent been able to work on engine yet). What would be recommended since I am going carb? Should I stay with the tank pump and run a Mallory 29387 regulator? Or should I run the mechanical? Are the fuel lines 5/16's? I cannot say if at some point I may move back to EFI when the turbo happens, but for now I want to keep it simple. I had a bad run in with EFI on a 5.0 swap recently (yes all wiring was good and codes always showed all was well). Also can someone tell me how much hood clearance we have when going to a 351W? Mine is an '88 Turbo Coupe and will be using a Mustang tubular subframe (AJE), Weiand Stealth intake and Street Demon 625. I saw that a company sells a 2" cowl for our cars, but not sure that would be enough or is it really needed? I probably wouldn't use the Mustang Tubular, but since ChuckW started being mean and no longer making his engine mounts I guess I have to (I at least got a set of his rear shock mounts). :) Thanks!
Hello All, As noted I bought a 88 Turbo Coupe for an excellent price. It needs work and have been fooling around with the 2.3 (auto). Good chance its worn out and possibly a cracked blocked. I bought the car anyways to do a 351C conversion. I went ahead and ordered a AJE Fox cross-member since Chuck said he no longer makes the conversion mounts. I am going to stay with factory suspension parts. When I drove the car I know steering had lots of play and a pen 15ed wheel when going straight. Possibly the rack is bad (I know the rag joint is toast as well which I have no clue where to find one). Can I get some recommendations as a good direction to go and what lower arms to go with? I have read about the SN95 rack swap which looks very interesting. When I looked up the parts though the 1994 Mustang model has a different rack number from say a 1996 (even though both are considered SN95). Should I just keep the same kind of rack that comes in my car and switch to Fox uppers and lowers? This will be a weekend warrior car and not a daily. I also looked at maybe a manual rack swap, but to me that looks like going backwards on a street car. Thanks for any help!
So I am working on getting the Turbo 4 back to a good running state, but honestly I bought the car for a 351 Cleveland I have sitting around. My car is an Auto but I would try to put in a mustang pedal set I believe to do all of this. What is going to be the easiest way to get small block mounts in my k member for the 351? Should I just get a different K? Also I do not see much info for Toploader swaps. Is there room to do this? Thanks
Hello All. Stupid newby here to the TC. I just got a poorly running 1988 TC Auto. First few things I found was a leak at the turbo to exhaust pipe and the cat was plugged up. I cut the cat out and this seemed to help a bunch. No luck on fixing the minor leak yet. Put new plugs, cap, rotor, cleaned throttle body and IAC. Cleaned VAM with MAF cleaner and put on a cone filter to remove the stock airbox. Did a base idle reset and adjusted the TPS. Fired the car up and getting the following codes. Key Only: 88, 22,41, 65 and Engine on: 12, 22, 34, 41, 74 & 77. It revs better than it did before but it does backfire some. It has a hunting idle but I got it to 1000rpms. Engine shakes a bit and thinking it may have a vacuum leak somewhere but visual inspection looks good. The bad is I found a water leak running down the exhaust pipe and it leaked out past the passenger side front tire. Any ideas on that leak? Thanks