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Topic: Work In Progress. '88 TC (Read 5730 times) previous topic - next topic

Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC

Reply #60
ScottRod is making the underhood cover for our cars and called me to check on which year I had.  He said the latch location or shape changed depending on the year 83-88. 

Thanks for the tip to look at Gumby's thread for the frame connectors.  That thread is a black hole of time.


Be sure you triple-check the location of all of the holes you need to cut. None of them lined up on the cover I bought from them for my '83 (and I specified an '83 when I ordered). I drilled one pilot hole and then thought to check the locations. I would've been pissed had I not done that, as I had to alter all of them to get it to fit. Looked good afterwards, though.


Gumby's method of the through-floor SFCs would be what I would do if I was building a fresh car. At this point, my set-up is too much to redo, just for the sake of redoing it. I'm planning on reworking the rear of the cage though, so I can get a rear seat back in the car (Much to my wife's chagrin).
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo

Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC

Reply #61
Tbird232ci - I am not that good with all the quotes!!!! :bowdown:
The trick is that I right-click the "quote" icon in the bottom-right of the post and then open it in a new tab. Then I can copy and paste the brackets that do the quotes and whatever text I'm quoting. It's a little tedious, but it comes from being on these forums for...Christ...over 20 years now.

ScottRod is making the underhood cover for our cars and called me to check on which year I had.  He said the latch location or shape changed depending on the year 83-88. 
http://scottrodfab.com/shop/index.php?id_product=186&controller=product
I'll be keeping an eye out on this thread. I'm anxious to see how well it fits, and how far forward it extends into the header panel. I feel that if it doesn't extend far enough forward, the air flow could still go over top the radiator and support. Even if it's not as long as I would like, it would be a great start for the price.

I bought that SN95 spindles and stashed them away a couple months ago.  I have been watching the market for a while and the prices for the spindles are climbing.  These were $100 directly off the car with the caliper and rotors along with the struts that I am not sure if I will keep any of the extras.
I paid 170 for mine a few years ago and that was considered a good deal. You did really good there. If you have any questions on the 5-lug swap, I'd be glad to help.

The extra E6 that i bought has a stich weld repair.  Not sure I should send that one out to be ported.  If I can get the T6 to spool as quickly at the IHI with the .48 that would be perfect for me at this stage.
It depends on the type of crack. A lot of them will have some surface cracks and it's not a big deal. The ones that crack and leak are the ones that are an issue. It certainly is worth doing if you can though. There are no downsides.

Funny about mentioning the car is clean.  It's been a New England car it's entire life and has some scars from it  Started off with the original owner in Massachusetts and then to my Step mother and Dad.  My Step mom used to commute into the Bronx as a school teacher with the car for a few years.  About 2008 when gas prices went up and her back started hurting from the clutch, she got a Prius for the tax deduction and save on fuel. There's dings on the car and some tree branches fell on it in 2011 from Sandy(?) so it has some dents.  It's in good shape but no where near a garage queen.
I feel that cars like this are the best kind. It's nice, but not perfect. I would feel guilty driving and modifying a perfect car. The history with the car makes it pretty awesome as well.

Be sure you triple-check the location of all of the holes you need to cut. None of them lined up on the cover I bought from them for my '83 (and I specified an '83 when I ordered). I drilled one pilot hole and then thought to check the locations. I would've been pissed had I not done that, as I had to alter all of them to get it to fit. Looked good afterwards, though.
That's a good tip on things to look out for.

Gumby's method of the through-floor SFCs would be what I would do if I was building a fresh car. At this point, my set-up is too much to redo, just for the sake of redoing it. I'm planning on reworking the rear of the cage though, so I can get a rear seat back in the car (Much to my wife's chagrin).
His current car has the more traditional style under-floor connectors, but I agree. If I had the skills to do them through-the-floor, I certainly would.

Of all of the cars you own, you're worried about this one having a back seat?
It's Gumby's fault.

Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC

Reply #62
Of all of the cars you own, you're worried about this one having a back seat?

We get very little time that it's just two of us wanting to go to a show or an event. It'll get driven more if all 4 of us can go in the same car.
Long live the 4-eyes!  - '83 Tbird Turbo

Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC

Reply #63
Gumby's method of the through-floor SFCs would be what I would do if I was building a fresh car.
That's going waaaaay back!

ScottRod is making the underhood cover for our cars and called me to check on which year I had.  He said the latch location or shape changed depending on the year 83-88. 
http://scottrodfab.com/shop/index.php?id_product=186&controller=product
I'll be keeping an eye out on this thread. I'm anxious to see how well it fits, and how far forward it extends into the header panel. I feel that if it doesn't extend far enough forward, the air flow could still go over top the radiator and support. Even if it's not as long as I would like, it would be a great start for the price.
Be sure you triple-check the location of all of the holes you need to cut. None of them lined up on the cover I bought from them for my '83 (and I specified an '83 when I ordered). I drilled one pilot hole and then thought to check the locations. I would've been pissed had I not done that, as I had to alter all of them to get it to fit. Looked good afterwards, though.
I put the 87-88 version on my car, just haven't taken any pics yet. As Chuck said, don't blindly drill on the ScottRod locations; you will be disappointed.
I had to space the latch forward to hit their pre-cut opening, and drill for the radiator brackets and hood bumpers.
I put no rivets in mine; tucked the outside edge under the fender, and the inside seam is held down by the rad brackets. The front edge extends well into the nose, no worries there.
gumby - beauty may fade, but stupid is forever!

Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC

Reply #64
The priority list changed last night.......Fuel Pump to the top of the list after it died!!!

I went to a cruise in last night where the engine just shut off as I was pulling in.  After trying to restart, I popped the hood to check the fuel pressure with the ignition on that read zero.  Cycled the key a few times to hear the pump whine and got it to start so i could get into a parking spot and rechecked the fuel pressure where it showed about 30-32 psi at idle.  The car needs to be cranked twice when starting cold of late and started pinging in 3rd gear recently so I have been driving it very mildly thinking I needed to do the plugs.  Kinda of an "Ah ha" moment. 

So relisted:
1. Fuel Pump
2. AFR gauge
then everything else.

Gumby & Chuck, Thanks for the tip on not blindly drilling the holes where marked.  Gumby, I like the idea of tucking the cover under the fender tab and the radiator brackets rather than drilling more holes.
1988 Thunderbird TC, 5spd
Stinger 3" single exhaust, Cone Filter, Adjustable Cam Pulley, Schneider roller cam, Walbro 255 lph,
'93 Mustang Cobra replica wheels on 235/50R17

'16 F150 XLT 5.0
'17 Husqvarna TX300

Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC

Reply #65






Post edited for links / images

The slot for the hood hinge needs to be widened so the  middle SR Fab piece can fit flat.   There is a gap at the front of the sheets and the nose.  Not too bad though.
1988 Thunderbird TC, 5spd
Stinger 3" single exhaust, Cone Filter, Adjustable Cam Pulley, Schneider roller cam, Walbro 255 lph,
'93 Mustang Cobra replica wheels on 235/50R17

'16 F150 XLT 5.0
'17 Husqvarna TX300

Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC

Reply #66
Are you sure its the fuel pump and not the piece of rubber between the fuel pump and the pickup assembly?  They rot out and crack causing fuel pump fail symptoms.  Cannot remember if you have already had the tank out and what not but thought I would throw it out there.

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

 

Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC

Reply #67
Are you sure its the fuel pump and not the piece of rubber between the fuel pump and the pickup assembly?  They rot out and crack causing fuel pump fail symptoms.  Cannot remember if you have already had the tank out and what not but thought I would throw it out there.
I am not certain. Thanks for the tip and I will check while I have the tank and pump out.  
Picked a syphon up today to start emptying the tank although with all this rain nothing is going to happen unfortunately because I am working in my driveway this time.
1988 Thunderbird TC, 5spd
Stinger 3" single exhaust, Cone Filter, Adjustable Cam Pulley, Schneider roller cam, Walbro 255 lph,
'93 Mustang Cobra replica wheels on 235/50R17

'16 F150 XLT 5.0
'17 Husqvarna TX300

Re: Work In Progress. '88 TC

Reply #68
I got the tank back in the car Friday and everything buttoned up.  So far so good.

I didn't find any cracks in the rubber line on the pump in the tank, but replaced it anyhow for good measure.

Going on vacation in a couple weeks so prepping for that not sure when I will get back into the car for the covers and front spoiler.
1988 Thunderbird TC, 5spd
Stinger 3" single exhaust, Cone Filter, Adjustable Cam Pulley, Schneider roller cam, Walbro 255 lph,
'93 Mustang Cobra replica wheels on 235/50R17

'16 F150 XLT 5.0
'17 Husqvarna TX300