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User Rides / Re: Chuck's '83 TBird
Last post by Chuck W -
Got out on the car again for a bit this afternoon.

Got the rest of the clutch bits removed.

The old clutch doesn't "look" too bad, I know it was slipping.

Very slight leak at the rear main, so that's going to get replaced while I'm in here.

Next I turned my attention to the interior, so I can have access to work on the hole.

Wrestled this thing out. Not very easy with the cage.

Here's the hole from the inside. Haven't found the slug yet, but did see where it impacted/scuffed the headliner board.

Spent a little time knocking it back up a bit. Going to zap that hole closed and smooth things out.

I'm probably just going to do the best I can to recoat this and blend it. I don't have the time or inclination to have the whole roof of the car repainted right now.

After trying to contort my mid-50's body around in the back seat area to get interior panels loose, I'm about 75% decided that I'm going to gut and rework the rear of the cage and get the rear seat back in this. This cage is dumb. :p
User Rides / Re: Chuck's '83 TBird
Last post by Chuck W -
Had an hour after work to get the T5 out.

I need to drop the starter so I can get the bell off and remove the clutch and flywheel.

Still fuming about the hole in the top of the car... :beatyoass:
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars WANTED / Re: 1985-88 Radio/Dash Panels WANTED
Last post by mcb82gt -
I'll keep an eye out!  Brushed alum, but looks pretty darn good.
Miscellaneous For Sale/Wanted / B303 cam -
Last post by ISTLCRUZ -
I have a B303 cam I purchased but sold the car I was going to use it in. Cam is new and in original box. Thought maybe someone here may be interested.
$245/shipped USPS with tracking. ( Lower U.S. only)
Audio & Other Aftermarket Electronics / Re: Stock stereo question
Last post by ISTLCRUZ -
So the sound will only be as good as the signal the factory head unit puts out which is by today’s standards is not all that great.  The reason I say this is the only way we used to install aftermarket amps on the stock stereo was to use line output converters which convert the speaker output out of the head unit to an RCA signal.  So with that you connect the LOC’s directly to the speakers wires on the back of the head unit and the signal is only as good as the electronics in your puppies near 40 year old radio.

Decent video on how to install:

You will want to install two of them or one that does front and rear channels if you plan on amplifying both the front and rear speakers. This will allow you to utilize the fader on the head unit. If you want to install a subwoofer simply use a set of “Y” RCA cables so you can split the sound from either the front or rear channel depending on how you want the subwoofer to fad. I was always a fan of putting it with the front speakers.

Some of the newer amps have outputs on them to provide signal to a sub amp so the “Y”’s would not be necessary in that case.

Anyhow hope this helps and for the love of car audio ditch the factory head unit.

I agree about the factory head unit. The only reason I have not swapped it out is my car is a 30th anniversary bird with less than 20k miles. Speakers won’t be seen so I don’t mind changing them. CD changer in trunk again won’t be seen. Just trying to keep it stock appearance . I have considered a head unit that looks “period correct “ but I’m hesitant.