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Messages - Mikey97D

168
Engine Tech / Re: Aeromotive Fuel Pump
Quote from: Aerocoupe – on
Just me but why not run a Walbro?  They have a 350 lph pump and it fits a Fox Mustang hanger so my assumption is it will fit the Bird/Cougar hangers?

https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-35467509-genuine-walbro-ti-350lph-fuel-pump-for-ford-mustang-lx-1986-1993.html
No reason other than I read the Automotive Stealth was very quiet compared to the Walbro.  The 255 lph Walbro would be fine for my car. 
Can you hear the Walbro in your cars when you turn it on?  How loud are they?
170
Engine Tech / Re: Aeromotive Fuel Pump
Quote from: Chuck W – on
You want a filter to go along with all of that?

I'll be taking one off my car here soon.

You can see it HERE

I *think* it's a 10m unit, as it has the "cellulose" paper element in it. (It would need a new one)
Nice! 
I will leave it as a maybe.  How often do you need to clean/change the filter element out of it? 

I need to see where I am at money wise once I get the head back on the car.  Keeping my fingers crossed there's no cracks.
171
Engine Tech / Aeromotive Fuel Pump
Looks like there is a sale going for these in the Stealth 340 series.  Has anyone used them?

From the chart for fitting they don't list our cars so do we look under Mustang 85-97 (Except Cobra)? 
P/N 11540: 340 Fuel Pump, Center Inlet

I bought a rail, injectors, fuel regulator (Aeromotive) , and gauge off someone on FB.  Having the injectors cleaned and rebuilt now.
173
User Rides / Re: Chuck's '83 TBird
My 2 cents on the last option that no one asked for:  I don't see a picture of it but you are using rod end bearings on the end of the panhard bar?  If so I would suggest using both right hand threads to save some money and then drill and pin the threads so they don't unscrew while adjusting.  In my head I would put the jackscrew on the end easiest accessible end of the panhard bar closest to the rod end.  Perhaps you could have the rod end thread into the one side of the jackscrew?
174
User Rides / Re: Work In Progress.
This past Fall I had the car aligned and tires rotated.  I didn't check the lug nut torque afterwards....big mistake.  I have a locking lug on each wheel and the key stripped on the last one.  All the lugs were over torqued badly enough that I am worried about the studs.
Back to the locking lug.  I got to learn the use a 12 point socket and a hammer to press over the locking lug.    Got it off and was happy I didn't need to get a lug nut welded on it.
175
Engine Tech / Re: Exhaust manifold - 2.3
Quote from: Tbird232ci – on
Just crank it in nice and tight. That's how I've been running mine.

I grabbed an EGR blockoff plate from tbirdcougarparts.com and ditched the EGR, along with all of the vacuum lines and the solenoid and everything.
It's funny that they left the solenoid and everything still in the upper intake but rolled up the tube on the exhaust.  I just ordered a blockoff plate from them too.  I would've left the system in place because I am not running a "super performance"  engine, but don't want to bother chasing down a tube. 
177
Engine Tech / Exhaust manifold - 2.3
A previous owner decided for me to make the EGR inoperable.


I didn't think I had enough map gas to get it out so I went to a shop to get the fitting out.  I've found a 1/2 npt steel plug at Home Depot. 

My question is do I need to seal the plug with something other than just threading it in?
178
User Rides / Re: Work In Progress.
Yesterday, I added some dye to the oil to find an oil leak that was coming from the back of the motor.  I was worried I had a rear main leak.  Nope it was coming out of the dip stick so new o-ring was put in hopefully will help but there is more.....

My friend came over to help and he brought a leak down tester.  The car has been blowing a puff of smoke when first starting so I was guessing the oil seals were not good.  About a year ago at 119k miles I had a compression test done that was around 145 across all the cylinders.  After pressurizing two cylinders and hearing the air leak into the valve cover that was enough of that.  It needs valve seals.  Probably didn't help the dip stick seal previously either.

I was having an over boost problem.   Last year I found a used ihi turbo, wastegate, and actuator.  I bench tested the actuator to make sure it opened at 10 psi and it did.  I was short on time and without a lift so I made an appointment with my mechanic to swap the actuator out last fall.  He called and said the wastegate was frozen shut.  So yesterday was the day to pull the manifold and turbo off to see what was going on.

An innocent bystander of the day was the lower coolant line off the turbo.  Are the "rubber" hoses on the ends factory?


The wastgate was not seized, but the actuator arm had an extra washer or something in it to cause binding.  No axial play was left in it and had caused it to corrode solid.  Stupid modification. 
I didn't take any before pictures but I did have to use a grinding wheel to cut the arm and pin out of it.


Another modification done was the EGR removal......
I need to find a 1/2 NPT plug and a hotter torch to get this one out.  Do I need to do anything to seal the threads when I put the plug in?


I need to pull the head.


Later this week my brake parts should arrive.  Braided brake lines, Hawk pads, and the metal inserts for the front calipers.  that should get the 4 lug brake system up to par for my use so far.  When I replace the brakes I will also be replacing the rear upper and lower control arms.  More fun soon.
179
Other Vehicles / Re: Well, I did a thing.....
You went over the GWB?  Poor car.  Did you lose any caps or fillings?

The Lincoln cleaned up nice.  Too bad about the coolant corrosion from sitting.  Sounds like it is all good now.