I highly doubt your engine is getting poor gas mileage due to running with no t-stat. Sure it makes a difference but measureale to your wallet, id say your prolbem is elsewhere.
where on the driveshaft should it be? like close to the tranny, close to the rear, ?
position it anywhere you want to start with. you will eventually hit the sweet spot. thats what the book says to do for the most part, its a guessing game.
most people need to replace the tailshaft bushing instead to take up slop from a vibrating driveshaft.
A quick check would be to remove the dizzy cover remove the rotor remove the ,ohwhats it called , that round thing with metal fins that passes thru the pick up or stator assy? armature maybe?
anyway, check that area for any micro debris down on that little magnet on the pickup or stator assy.
try carb cleaner
to remove micro debris from that magnet, i put a large magnet on a long narrow screwdriver. i probed down in between where the armature passes thru the stator and picked off small particles because my magnetic field was stronger than the one on the stator iteself. I do this once in a while as a prventative maint step.
i took everyone of my sockets and bent the metal contact just so to help continuity. also, i bent out the little wires on each blub just a little and reinstalled em back with some conductive compund.
a lot of times you will notice the sockets really dont make good contact until you fool with them a little bit.
Oh and btw , just to add to the drive shaft info. i actually found this approved maint step in my FoMoCo manual for troubleshooting a drive shaft with vibration.
mark the drive shaft at the 12,3,6,9 o'clock positions. install a hose clamp and tighten so the adjuster is at the 12 pos. drive car position hose clamp in different positions until the vibration is nominal.
Tighten clamp and locktight the adjuster
i guess that adjuster acts as a counter balance. I tried it on my wifes bronco and it really does do some crazy stuff to the vibration.
If you read 14v, unplug positive lead of your battery (with key OFF) and put an Amp-Meter between the battery (+) and the red wire to check if there is a charge slowly draining your battery.
sorry to be picking on you but you gotta use terminology as you mean it. This guy may just print out all this advice and hand it over to a mechanic and say,, "thats what these guys said to do". the mechanic will say,,"but where am i gonna get an AMP METER that will handle 900cca incase its a real bad short?"
if you meant Voltmeter,, then im really confused as to why the battery has to come undone at all. No mention of respect to polarity either which is extremly helpful if your using an buttstuffog meter as the calibration of the needle could be fuggered up when it pegs to the left real hard.
and, a charge does not drain as does a drain does not charge
im so confused.
dont get mad or pissed at me,, its just one of those things like.... a guy the other day said his outlet by the stove does not work. He said there must be a "SHORT" somewhere. >>this is the point where i bite my tounge but my ass over rides my mouth and i say....
no Dave,, there is no short here,, THERE IS AN OPEN. Especially when the breaker did not even kick.
or like this one i call a appliance sevice place and inquire the normal resistance of a typical hot water tank heating element. the guy says "well, i dont set mine to resistance, i set it to RX1 and if the meter swings real hard to the right , its good" Im like WTF!!!!!!! I did some digging and found out a typical element should be around 10-15ohms and called the guy back to let him know he should set his meter to Rx10 from now on to save the calibration on his simpson he said he uses.
Its certainly not the starter selenoid since you r able to start the car....
wrong ever heard of heat corrosion or patial contact being made? The starter solenoid is a probable fault but pulling fuses while a meter is hooked to the battery will get it down to which circuit. the meter will stop going down in Volts DC when the faulty circuit is de-energized. exception would be one of your circuits that have no fuse in the fuse box.
here's a bunch of info from days gone by ive collected for my hopefully HO/supercharged fast something or another.
head cam piston info The only really good 351 heads are the '69 & '70 heads. All the later ones are basically the same as their 302/5.0 brothers. As a fact the E7TEs are truck heads and were also used on the 351.. turbocoup50
--turbocoupe50 Basically the SO 5.0 uses a different firing order(could rewire the inj to get around this), and cannot handle the extra fuel the HO computer and injectors would supply. It could be done with a computer from a '91 Calif Crown Vic. Those SO 5.0s did have mass air.
NOW REMEMBER THIS..... MASS AIR IS NOT NECESSARY ON A STOCK ENGINE. ONLY IF YOU ARE UPGRADING TO BETTER HEADS, CAM, ETC, IS IT REALLY BENEFICAL.... STOCK '87-'88 STANGS ARE ACTUALLY A LITTLE QUICKER THAN THE '89-'93 VERSIONS. --turbocoupe50
--joefirday The best stock heads for your car would be the GT40 or Gt40P heads, and then the E7TE's. The problem with the GT40 heads is that they are a bit hard to find (only found on 93-95 Mustang Cobras and a few mid-90's F-150's with the 351W engines) and command a good price, while the GT40P's can be had off any 97-2000 V8 Exploder/Mountainer, which should be a pretty easy and cheap score. Also, the Explorer/Mounty 5.0's have great-performing upper/lower intakes, and a 65mm throttle body that can be modified to work on the older 5.0's, if you are ever interested in getting into SEFI. A whole explorer engine would be one hell of a nice alternative that to finding a good Stang/Mark engine. The only problem with it is that it has the wrong oil pan, front timing cover, serpentine belt brackets, and a distributerless ignition. As long as you can find a roller cam distributer, and the front end accessories and timing cover off the older 5.0's (F-150 5.0 trucks of the late 80's had the same front accessory brackets as the 5.0 SEFI T-Bird engines; should be easier to find in the boneyards) you should be all set. The oil pan off your current 5.0 should be double hump, and can be used on the Explorer engine.
The problem with the GT40P heads is that they require a special header, and the headers costs $270 from Ford Racing (mac also makes a set, but the Fords are Stainless Steel, which makes the extra $50 for them worth every penny). That makes the P head not so much of a steal as it is thought to be.
Also, the GT40 and GT40P heads run larger valves than the E7TE's and your stock heads, which may require you to flycut or just replace your pistons in order to have proper piston-to-valve clearance. If that's the case, then perhaps the E7's are the best choice for you. They are truely a dime a dozen, and easy as hell to find (all 87-96 5.0 F-150s, all 87-92 Lincoln Mk7's, and all 87-93 Mustang 5.0's have them standard). Very good performers too. I use the E7's on my T-bird. They can support a very good amount of power when ported. Best of all, they shouldn't require any flycutting of the pistons or expensive exhaust upgrades.
On a closing note, you say your engine is an 84 right? well, the py heads for the 5.0 engines have always been the "E6" heads (used on all 86 and up 5.0 SO engines). Since those heads were made in 1986, your car can't possibly have those heads, which leaves me to wonder what heads you do have. I wonder if your 5.0 uses the same head castings as the 85 mustang? If that's the case, then those old castings are just as good as the E7 heads. Perhaps you don't need a head upgrade. Can anyone verify this? Turbocoupe50? Anybody? --joefriday
turbocoupe50 When I said $3k CDN wasn't going to do it, I meant for like 325hp. If you don't rush and wait for some deals, it should be possible to get 275+hp on a tight budget.
To be able to use a decent HP cam/head combo you're gonna need pistons with valve relifs. The SO 5.0 has none, the only head that works with stock pistons(other than the E6s) are the Twisted Wedges (yea I have 'em). Is your engine really ready for a rebuild or do you just want to have a fresh base to start with?? I've seen many 5.0s with over 100K mi that were fine for another 100K. I personally know a guy with a '88 Bird that has 317K mi. with only a timing chain replacement(yea its getting tired).
These heads are gonna require notched pistons(Possibly can use the E7s with a stock HO cam, but you hp is gonna be limited). To make any kind of real HP you're gonna need at least some PORTED E7 Mustang heads(do a web search for "Power Heads"). A step up are the GT40 irons, with a little porting they perform really well. Since aluminum heads are all the rage these days, they are usually available used for around $250-$350(US). Also get a set of roller rocker arms.
Next up would be cam... I have the small Trick Flow cam in mine, but its a little much for the everyday driver. Something like the Ford Racing "E" cam will idle better(there are also a lot of other choices).
Now you're gonna need a intake. Probably the best for the least money will be the Explorer unit(requires drilling for the ACT sensor). May be able to pick up a Cobra setup if you are lucky. Also get a 65mm throttle body while you are at it. Here you could use a Mustang HO upper and throttle body, then up grade later.
You'll need better engine management with the engine mods, so you'll want a Mustang Mass Air Computer and 19 lb injectors. If you decide to just go stock HO, a Mustang Speed Densety setup would be fine.
Exaust system is next.. aftermarket is best again, but you could get by with Stock Mustang headers and a 2 1/4" system(2 1/2" is better). Jegs has a Hooker system that works nicely, but as with all Mustang exaust will require a bit of massaging to make fit.
Then there all the little pieces that add up in price, lifters, adj fuel pressure reg, better fuel pump, etc. Then there are things like better rear gears and higher stall converter for the tranny. Plain and simple...Horse Power ain't cheap. Keep a eye on the Corral and ebay for deals. ==turbocoupe50
so is there a mark made in 87 with e7's? ==jcassity OK here's how it works... Only the LSC versions of the Mark-VII had the HO. A Bill Blass(or any other) version got the std 150HP SO 5.0(this is true up till '89 or so). Any LSC built in '87 that has the HO with E7 heads would be titled as a '88. The engine ID in the VIN number also changed from "M" ('86-'87) to "E" ('88-up). For the Mustang, HO engine code change from "M" to "E" beginnig with the '87 models... turbocoupe50
turbocoupe50 To retain the speed densety system the '87-'88 Mustang EEC is a plug in, no other changes necessary. The LSC computer can also be used, but the '88 up has a speed limiter. The '87 SO 5.0 engine should already have a roller cam installed. No its not the same as the HO, so you'll still want to swap cams. The SO engine will have flat top pistons without valve relifs, so the HO cam and heads are the limit without notching the pistons. The Trick Flow Twisted Wedges work great without notching thiough.
I'm not really sure what the chambers cc out at, but I'm thinkin' both HO and SO are in the 62-65cc range.-- turbocoupe50
but i have to say droolllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll and not scared to say so,,,,,,,,,HELLO COUGAR BABY :ies: :)
crystal last catjam there were pics put up and on one pic i noticed was where you were doing some sort of monkey wrenching and someone was caught with thier hand in the cookie car looking right at you rear. :brick: Cant remember if its the one where your standing on the car or infront of it. I remember LOL and showing the wife what i found. No one else noticed it and i forgot to bring it up.
We could all just update our profile with a personal photo,, the option is in there..
hey dookie,, i opened up a pick using paint. i cut out the portion of the pic that mattered and saved as a jpeg. Maybe its a redneck way to resize but it worked. you gotta keep fooling around with it till it gets below x amount of kbytes then she'll upload.
a lot of people with the BUzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz noise from aod issues dont realize that a plastic round bushing is busted and missing at the linkake gathering spot to the left of the driver side exhaust header. That makes enough slop that if you slam it back to park it goes away.
if its in the rear of the car and goes away ,,,,, just buy a pump.
unhook the fuel line before the fuel filter,, test the presure there. the stock Bosch only has a max presure of an amazing 65psi from what i can remember. I replaced my pump and installed a supercharge v6 fuel pump. That one puts out about 98psi as well as more liters per hour which i compared in great detail before selecting my pump. You just have to make sure to shim your existing rubber pump boot cause the new SC pump is much smaller than the bosch. The nose is designed a little different from the bosch (no regulator round thing a mamabob).
you'll know when its ready to go cause it will probably make variable sounds in frequency from low to high all within the same time frame.
If you carry a spare tire in the car,, now would be a good time to practice dropping the tire flat ways in the trunk to jar the pump back into action. OR>...... carry a hammer with to give it a bang if it fails.
:)