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Topic: Headlamp switch compatibility (Read 1280 times) previous topic - next topic

Headlamp switch compatibility

2 headlamp switches. 2 Ford part #s.....

E7SB-11654-AA
E7LB-11654-BA

1st is out of a 1987 Cougar
2nd is from a 1989 LSC.

Both had auto lamp and auto dim.

The switches APPEAR identical other than the part #....

1st one has a broken rheostat. It's from a friend's car. The plastic tab one of the contacts was mounted broke.  Just want to make sure they are in fact compatible as I wanna give him the second if he can use it.  It'll save him about $70....Maybe more.
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

Headlamp switch compatibility

Reply #1
Swapped it in.  Working as it should.  How hot do those heat sinks get?  It's not ridiculously hot, but there's one spot about the size of a screw head warmer than the rest of it.  I'll keep an eye on it.
-- 05 Mustang GT-Whipplecharged !!
--87 5.0 Trick Flow Heads & Intake - Custom Cam - Many other goodies...3100Lbs...Low12's!

Headlamp switch compatibility

Reply #2
It's the dimmer. It uses a resistive wire. If you leave the lights dim alot it will burn out the coiled wire. Also the whole current for the headlights run through the switch. A relay would do wonders there.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

Headlamp switch compatibility

Reply #3
if you need verbal help with the slave relay mod , call me 304 772 3411,

the heat sync gets hot and does present a degree of voltage drop through the contacts.

the headlamps & marker lamps all add up to the heat on the switch. 

i would need to compare my shop manual wring diagram to see if there is a difference from the Mark to Bird/coug but it seems your trial and error is working so far.
nice find on compatability.