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Messages
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Messages - Masejoer
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Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: SN95 seats DON'T just "bolt to our tracks"?
It sounds straightforward, but seeing is telling.
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Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: SN95 seats DON'T just "bolt to our tracks"?
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Engine Tech / Re: Troubleshooting persistent misfire
Still going to get you that datalog of my spark at idle this weekend. But until then I have more questions, what AFR are you shooting for at idle? are you hitting it? and when was the last time you calibrated your wideband sensor?
Whats your fuel pressure at idle and what does it change to when you pull the vacuum line off the regulator?
So you have an A9P running on a 4r70w. Which controller are you using to control the trans?
Sorry for all the questions there's just such a wide range of things that can affect idle quality and trying to give you any sort of good idea without being there is difficult.
The AFRs are simply switching around lambda, I run 92 octane "up to e10/whatever they have in the pump" sometimes, sometimes 92 octane e0. I have mostly the 92-octane from a chevron a few blocks away in there right now. Of course it'shiznitting lambda if the narrowband o2s are switching.
I haven't touched the wideband in years, but I do have a second new gauge-less one to install here soon in the passenger side. I've had an old aem thing in there that requires the gauge, and outputs the signal line from the gauge. Driver side has the Innovate LC-2 screwed ion.
FP was mentioned earlier - it's 33psi with 16in of vacuum, 39psi with vacuum detached. I'm going to play with some random tune settings this weekend to see if ANYTHING gets the idle any smoother.
4t70w is running from the original Baumannator TCS. Don't remember if this trans went in with the motor in the mid 2000's, or if I briefly ran the aod. I've had the 4r in there since before the Quarterhorse though, and likely before I ran a TwEECer.
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Engine Tech / Re: Troubleshooting persistent misfire
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Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: Seat upgrade ... attempt #2 ...
This post is incredible, how do we get the pics back and updated. Would be a shame to lose all that info and work.
I second this - would like to see how this all fits on the stock frames. I'd be willing to throw the images into a folder on my web host, so these aren't stored on the forum itself.
I believe that this is the foam and upholstery set to use? https://www.cjponyparts.com/tmi-upholstery-03-04-cobra-style-sport-high-back-seats-1987-1989/p/U81-V/
For verification, are our Sport/TC seat frames and foam identical to the "1987-89 Mustang Sport Seats"? I've seen that mentioned elsewhere once on this forum.
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Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: SN95 seats DON'T just "bolt to our tracks"?
I did some seat "upgrades" using TMI items as well. I was able to take a stock set of Turbo Coupe seats and modify them. First, I stripped them down to the bare frames, added upgraded "Cobra" style foam with more aggressive bolstering from TMI. Then, I recovered them with a seat cover set from TMI that I was able to custom spec the color combo/material for ... the SVO Mustang used the same charcoal color, so it matched up nicely. This allowed me to keep the adjustable side bolsters and knee bolster along with the lumbar.
Here's the link, but all of the photos have since disappeared:
https://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/index.php?topic=40410.0
Pics of the finished product ... you'll have to forgive the lighting. This is where I ended, but there was a lot of experimentation along the way. I did some hole drilling in a spare power seat track with some Corbeau seats, but just never got them to fit to my liking. Looks like yours bolted up without too much issue, Good job.
Do those Fox mustang "cobra" version sets work on our frames? Are the frames that similar, or are they identical to Mustangs?
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Engine Tech / Re: Troubleshooting persistent misfire
You have a stock cam in it right? Personally never had an issue but I also know all cams are different from one another. Is it possible yours is different enough to cause an issue, maybe but seems unlikely. Youre right though putting a degree wheel on it is the only way to know for sure but seems like a long shot to me. I personally would start with different plugs cap and rotor the maintenance stuff that has to be done eventually anyway. Cant say I've ever had a set of plugs last me more than a year even when I was N/A, now days I go through a set of ngk 5673-7 in about 3 months at most. I would also try and set base idle by unplugging the battery and clearing KAM unplugging the IAC reconnect battery starting it and adjusting the throttle plate until it idles where I want then shut it off and plug the IAC back in start it and let it run for a while sometimes Ive had to do it a few times after replacing my throttle body to get idle back to normal. You said it acts up at 2000 rpm right? Like its misfiring?
The cam that came out of a factory '89 Mustang longblock, yes. Originally had that with the topend from a '93 Cobra, and this A9P. I've been through various engine builds since then, with at least 3 plug wire sets, maybe 4 or 5 sets of plugs across the heads, 5 injector sets (three different 19lb sets, a 24lb, and a 30lb), 3 full distributors, 2 MAF sensors, 3 IAC valves, 3-4 EGR valves, 3-4 alternators, 3 batteries, a few new replacement engine and coolant temperature sensors, and who knows what else.
Kinda wish I just had an aluminum DART 351 block instead, machined from scratch and internally balanced...a fresh build.
I'll have to get a new parked video recording when I have some daylight.
On another note, my switching 5v regulator is arriving soon and I'll finally get the cluster's mechanical regulator replaced. Those three gauges have also annoyed me forever.
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Engine Tech / Re: Troubleshooting persistent misfire
Anyone know of the cheapest options to try such a thing? Would need the intake and carb obviously, and could just use a pump to pump from a gas can. igniton box. Sounds like I should have access to everything to test this, except the 4 barrel intake.
Really curious if the idle would smooth out by ditching all of the electronics, and this could potentially be a huge diagnostic test.
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Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: SN95 seats DON'T just "bolt to our tracks"?
Quote
I did some seat "upgrades" using TMI items as well. I was able to take a stock set of Turbo Coupe seats and modify them. First, I stripped them down to the bare frames, added upgraded "Cobra" style foam with more aggressive bolstering from TMI. Then, I recovered them with a seat cover set from TMI that I was able to custom spec the color combo/material for ... the SVO Mustang used the same charcoal color, so it matched up nicely. This allowed me to keep the adjustable side bolsters and knee bolster along with the lumbar.
Here's the link, but all of the photos have since disappeared:
https://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/index.php?topic=40410.0
Pics of the finished product ... you'll have to forgive the lighting. This is where I ended, but there was a lot of experimentation along the way. I did some hole drilling in a spare power seat track with some Corbeau seats, but just never got them to fit to my liking. Looks like yours bolted up without too much issue, Good job.
Yeah, they sell fox-mustang "Cobra-like" replacement foam and upholstery. I am still tempted to try such a thing out, but I'd also need to repair my broken or bent driver seat-back. There's things that I just like about the stock seats.
Would be easy to flip the Mustang seats.
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Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: SN95 seats DON'T just "bolt to our tracks"?
Quote
I have heard that the 99+ seats have the latch for the seat belts bolted to the seat itself instead of the trans tunnel. I have also heard that the 99+ latch will not accept the 95 and down seat belts. You may have to remove the latch off the seats you have and run with the stock latch so your seat belts will work. May want to check this now and I would be curious to know if that is BS or not.
Our seat belt buckles bolt to the seat track. I bolted the seats to my tracks, and the buckles are the same factory ones. I did shorten the buckle mounting bolt on the passenger side so that it doesn't press into the upholstery, but that was just excess bolt length.
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Engine Tech / Re: Troubleshooting persistent misfire
Still trying to get a stock crank pulley for the project, for less than $50.
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Engine Tech / Re: Troubleshooting persistent misfire
Don't think that's it.
cgrey8 over at eectuning is thinking I should take a look at the actual timing events of the cam. Well alluding to it. I still think a stock cam, crank, and timing set should be a drop-in-affair without a degree wheel, but retarded timing would help explain my idle/low load issue.
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Engine Tech / Re: Troubleshooting persistent misfire
Back then:
"The basics are a 306 with gt40 intake, gt40p heads, ho cam, 2.5" exhaust, still stock 60mm TB and 55mm mass air sensor with panel air filter, 19lb injectors, A9P ecu, distributor at 10 degrees."
I always google issues and stumble across my own threads from years long past
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Engine Tech / Re: Troubleshooting persistent misfire
I also would think the computer wouldn't know that SPOUT disconnect is happening, and continue to try to adjust spark and fuel, making the engine run rougher - pulling SPOUT may not be enough of a test to smooth out the idling motor.
Locking timing via tune would be smarter, but may only work okay in open loop.
Valleys and peaks of 16-25 degrees.