What I haven’t seen mentioned is, if you the mark 7 front rotors, is they tend to limit wheel choice as the hub is slightly larger and longer than fox or SN stuff. I used them at first but had to have a friend machine the wheels to fit them. I’ve since went with 2000 SN stuff to run 13”ers Good luck with your swap
When you connect the exhaust, you’re not connecting it to axle, you’re connecting (hanger brackets)it to the car. Whatever weight you put in the trunk shouldn’t have any effect on the arch hitting the body as the exhaust won’t move. If you shorten the arch, there’s a really good chance of the axle hitting the bottom of said arch, if you have weight in the trunk or not.
Correct. But that is because you lengthened the subframe. If you choose not to lengthen it, you would need to modify the rear anchor bracket or the shock reinforcement.
That's true, I did have to make some spacers but I knew I would have to do the modification at some point because of how the tire looked.
Quote from: 88Boostedbird;465923
I am doing the very same thing right now, adding 3/4" to my IRS cradle arms to fit my '88 Bird properly (as I am also running it lowered with 18" wheels and need every bit of wheel well real estate acreage I can get!).
I believe I used your picture as an example as I couldn't get mine to upload.
Here's a good example of why you should lengthen the front mounting points, besides the spring, it puts the tire/wheels back in it's proper position in the wheel opening.