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Topic: Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams?? (Read 8609 times) previous topic - next topic

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Im in the final stages of the 4 eye swap on my 87 turbo coupe.  The last thing I need to do is mate the 86 wiring from the lights to the 87 harness in the car.  I have the battery and battery tray out and found the connector for the harness.  It looks like they switched the male and female connectors around over the years.  I was wondering if someone could find me a diagram for the headlamps for an 86 and an 87 so I can be sure everything is wired correctly?  Appreciate it!
84 TC - under contruction
2018 F150 2.7 4x4 STX
98 F-150 XLT - 4.6, auto, 4x4, extended cab

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #2 –
Thank you that has been very helpful!  I now have 2 more questions.  The first is there is a green wire with a pink stripe that is coming from the car that was snipped before I started working on it and I have a green/pink wire on the 86 harness.  I cant seem to find it on the diagram, should this wire be hooked up?  The only issue Im having is the bright lights wont stay on which leads me to my next question.  When I pull back on the highbeam switch all 4 headlamps light up and the highbeam indicator light on the dash comes on, but they go off as soon I release the switch and the highbeam indicator light goes out.  What do you think could be the culprit there?
84 TC - under contruction
2018 F150 2.7 4x4 STX
98 F-150 XLT - 4.6, auto, 4x4, extended cab

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #3 –
Hi beams are turned on only by a multi function switch (under the steering wheel). There are no relays used for headlamps (except "flash to pass" relay). Yellow wire then changes color to LG/BK and is being split in C234 to high beam indicator and high beam filaments. So if your indicator is ON, your high beams should be too.

BTW, did you do some modification to your car's wiring earlier, or not? Especially in the interior.

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #4 –
No modifications inside the car.  I went back to work on it again tonight.  I had the alternator and the battery tested and both tested just fine.  However, the car is still showing around 12.8 volts at idle.  When you jump the RPM up it will go to a little over 13.  The highbeam indicator on the dash is on all the time and when I turn the highbeams on and off the outside lights get softer/brighter.  The wiring from the cars 87 harness matched up perfectly with the colors from the 86 harness so Im thinking everything should be wired correctly.  The only issue Im having is the very low voltage and the highbeams not working correctly.  Im afraid to drive the car more than around the block as the voltage has dropped so low it has killed the car and not been able to restart without a jump.
84 TC - under contruction
2018 F150 2.7 4x4 STX
98 F-150 XLT - 4.6, auto, 4x4, extended cab

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #5 –
Even if I unplug the headlamp harness connector underneath the battery tray the car still shows very low voltage.  The two ground wires that go to the core support are grounded correctly, could it be Im having a grounding issue somewhere else on the car.  There was a large black wire coming from the 86 harness that changes to a large yellow wire (the splice doesnt look factory) that I connected to the ground that go to the inner fender wall right next to the started solenoid.  I didnt see anything from the 87 harness that would compare to it.  Im no electrical guru so I hope I have not bitten off more than I can chew.  The annoying thing is the headlights (minus the brights) blinkers, and corner lights all work right.  That leads me to believe the harnesses have been mated from the 87 and 86 correctly.
84 TC - under contruction
2018 F150 2.7 4x4 STX
98 F-150 XLT - 4.6, auto, 4x4, extended cab

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #6 –
Does the engine run?? If so what is the charging rate?? And is it the same as the voltage you are talking about?? Another words is the battery voltage the same as your headlight voltage!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!
 

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #8 –
Those are both good questions.  Tom, I will report back with numbers next time I am near the car again.  Hopefully that will be tomorrow.  Did the 5L mustangs ground to the motor mounts?  The negative cable seems to run to the center of the engine and then down toward the ground so Ill have to find out where that is going.  The only thing that throws me off is that this problem started right after swapping the front clips.... but all I have changed is the headlight wiring.  Wouldnt it be a coincidence if it was unrelated to the swap.
84 TC - under contruction
2018 F150 2.7 4x4 STX
98 F-150 XLT - 4.6, auto, 4x4, extended cab

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #9 –
Oh and to answer your question yes the engine will run.  The problem is that with too many accesories on it draws that battery down and will slowly kill the car.  Id like to see over 13 at idle, however Im barely over 12 most of the time unless you increase the engine RPM.
84 TC - under contruction
2018 F150 2.7 4x4 STX
98 F-150 XLT - 4.6, auto, 4x4, extended cab

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #10 –
Quote from: croga001;437587
The only issue Im having is the bright lights wont stay on which leads me to my next question.  When I pull back on the highbeam switch all 4 headlamps light up and the highbeam indicator light on the dash comes on, but they go off as soon I release the switch and the highbeam indicator light goes out.  What do you think could be the culprit there?
Your flash to pass is working and it sounds like you have the "Automatic Headlight Dimmer" feature. The dimmer relay is not picking (energizing) so it stays on low beam. Make sure the dimmer thumb wheel is all the way off (clicked). This will take the photocell amplifier out of the picture.
87 EVTM pages 84 & 85.

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #11 –
You hit the nail on the head softtouch.  I did have a chance to work on the car again today.  I checked all my grounds and everything came up good.  I started turning off things and saw that with nothing on I had right around 14 volts.  Since the car has electric fans Im going to need a higher amp alternator.  Right now the car is using a 75 amp and the highest advanced or autozone can get me is an 80 amp.  Will that be enough to compensate?  I have been searching online for a higher output replacement but they all seem to be single wire alternators?  Is there a bolt on and go 100 or better amp alternator?  BTW The car has an 88 mustang 5.0 if that makes a difference.
84 TC - under contruction
2018 F150 2.7 4x4 STX
98 F-150 XLT - 4.6, auto, 4x4, extended cab

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #12 –
I know everyone is going to say go 3G and I wouldnt mind going that route, but I have not found a good write up on the swap.  Is there someone here would wouldnt mind walking me through it, or a thread that explains the process?  BTW I appreciate the help guys.
84 TC - under contruction
2018 F150 2.7 4x4 STX
98 F-150 XLT - 4.6, auto, 4x4, extended cab

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #13 –
I have posted numerous times on this conversion. It is simple and so dam easy. Do it and i will talk you through it. Look back on electrical and you will see how i do it. By the way your alternator is shot. Because if it can not charge properly with accessories on it clearly has an issue. A 75A alternator is guite big in fact and should run that car with no issues whatsoever. I think the stock TC came with an 85A and that is quite sufficient for the vehicle and it has tuns of electrical loads, Go to what i posted bellow and i have an alternator layed out with proper wiring. Just do it that way if you want to up date to a bigger unit

 Wiring issue between alt and battery...88 TC..help

Wire the alt like this. Only one wire from the original harness needed and that is the one from KEY BATTERY. OR DASH LIGHT to I terminal. And of course the heavy charge lead from the battery or starter solenoid. Everything else is wired as bellow

I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

Can you help me get my hands on some diagrams??

Reply #14 –
Quote from: croga001;438191
I know everyone is going to say go 3G and I wouldnt mind going that route, but I have not found a good write up on the swap.  Is there someone here would wouldnt mind walking me through it, or a thread that explains the process?  BTW I appreciate the help guys.

its a sticky in Greatest hits section,,, with a drawing

or here>  http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?13641-3g-install-**go-directly-to-post-50-for-drawing


or in my diy link below


first task is to verify your I and S terminals are swapped, making your regulator plug / pin out appear like the 5.0 drawing you see in post 50 of the above link  *and* as tom has shown in his photo.