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AOD thoughts/recommendations

Getting ready to go back to the track and wanted some thoughts. For the last 25 years all my cars have had manuel valve bodies. When my son raced this car stock I had him leave it in drive, being new to racing just went from A to B. This is a LX with column shift and trans has who knows how many miles. Fluid and filter were replaced. With added power it isn't anything to right home about. Over winter I will need to entertain a rebuild with torque converter or maybe a t5 swap. So some said don't leave it in drive at WOT, that it will do damage to the trans.  What do's and don't would you suggest. ALso, cable adjustment recommendations? After changing the intake, T.B. and egr spacer delete, I don't know if this is a concern. Thanks.
1988 LX, 306 with GT40P heads, Downs Upper Intake on Truck Lower, Powerdyne Supercharger and T5 swap.  Scavenger Hunt Build at it's best.

AOD thoughts/recommendations

Reply #1 –
All putting it in drive does is lock out od. Foot to the floor with an aod, 302 and 2.73 gears hasn't hurt my cars any. Second tops out about 68mph, third is probably 110+mph.

The 1-d-1 shuffle to keep it from shifting can be bad if ya overshift. For cruising around town, i leave my car in od pretty much no matter what. I also try to get into od no matter what. If im gonna cruise for a while at 35mph, i speed up to 40mph for the od shift then slow back down to 35mph.

Id just throw a t-5 at it. Totally changes the way the car feels and is much more fun to beat on. With 275/60's on my old 87 tbird with an open 2.73 rear, i could one wheel peel all the way through 1st, half way through second and chirp 3rd. With the auto, it was hard to chirp a tire driving through a puddle on asphalt from a dead stop. I did destroy like 3 sets of motor mounts, but i am pretty hard on stuff.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

AOD thoughts/recommendations

Reply #2 –
As far as times whether shifter is in D or O/D at track makes zero difference... In D it's a std three speed automatic, in O/D position same thing, shifts to third and holds as long as throttle is WOT...

As mentioned it's the 1-D-1 shuffle to hold 2nd that's hard on transmission... For whatever reason it causes a momentary application of reverse band(so brief you won't feel it), still over time it does damage...

The Trans-Go kits fix this problem but under no cirspoogestance should you use their 3-4 shift valve, with it trans will shift to O/D at WOT...

AOD thoughts/recommendations

Reply #3 –
Well you could so what I had done to my AOD:

PI Stallion non-lockup torque converter, one piece input shaft, mechanical diode, Alto Red eagle clutches, Epoxy Mod valve body, A+ OD servo, 2" OD band, Hi-Rev governor.

Not cheap, but it's supposedly good for over 500HP. The 302 in my car hasn't hurt it at all.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

AOD thoughts/recommendations

Reply #4 –
Quote from: TurboCoupe50;462090
For whatever reason it causes a momentary application of reverse band(so brief you won't feel it), still over time it does damage...

Uses that to give engine braking. So yeah it's applying that (granted along with the intermediate clutch) under load. Blehhhh!
Theoretically shouldn't be a problem at all if you wait just a split second or so (under WOT you've got plenty of time..) and THEN pull back to 1.



Get a shift kit in that thing! If you have a motor between 200-300 HP, just do a shift kit (TransGo or Baumann, as TurboCoupe50 said don't use their 3-4 valve, leave it in D and send it down the track. (Assuming you'd rather avoid a full teardown at this point in time)

At the very least, tighten that TV cable alllll the way up when racing. Really not GREAT as it can starve the rear of the trans of lubrication, granted I have run a few cars like that for years and tens of thousands of miles. I don't mind being a bit of a guinea pig risking my own stuff, not recommending anyone else do the same!
Maybe just adjust it all the way tight only when at the dragstrip. For hard abusive WOT dragstrip runs, this would be a corner-cutting way of prolonging the trans life by making sure there's plenty of pressure during each upshift. You'll notice the shifts are firmer. With 3.73:1 gears, 240 horsepower and just the TV cable tightened all the way I've chirped the 1-2 shift.

You SHOULD adjust the linkage to essentially line right up with the throttle arm's CLOSED position with no tension OR excessive slack in the cable/linkage for factory settings. Ideally with a trans pressure gauge hooked to the TV port, don't recall the specs right now.
1987 20th Anniversary Cougar, 302 "5.0" GT-40 heads (F3ZE '93 Cobra) and TMoss Ported H.O. intake, H.O. camshaft
2.5" Duals, no cats, Flowmaster 40s, Richmond 3.73s w/ Trac-Lok, maxed out Baumann shift kit, 3000 RPM Dirty Dog non-lock TC
Aside from the Mustang crinkle headers, still looks like it's only 150 HP...
1988 Black XR7 Trick Flow top end, Tremec 3550
1988 Black XR7 Procharger P600B intercooled, Edelbrock Performer non-RPM heads, GT40 intake AOD, 13 PSI @5000 RPM. 93 octane

AOD thoughts/recommendations

Reply #5 –
If ya ever throw it into 1 at 68mph, you can chirp the 2-1 shift ;).
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

AOD thoughts/recommendations

Reply #6 –
Quote from: Haystack;462085
All putting it in drive does is lock out od. Foot to the floor with an aod, 302 and 2.73 gears hasn't hurt my cars any. Second tops out about 68mph, third is probably 110+mph.

The 1-d-1 shuffle to keep it from shifting can be bad if ya overshift. For cruising around town, i leave my car in od pretty much no matter what. I also try to get into od no matter what. If im gonna cruise for a while at 35mph, i speed up to 40mph for the od shift then slow back down to 35mph.

Id just throw a t-5 at it. Totally changes the way the car feels and is much more fun to beat on. With 275/60's on my old 87 tbird with an open 2.73 rear, i could one wheel peel all the way through 1st, half way through second and chirp 3rd. With the auto, it was hard to chirp a tire driving through a puddle on asphalt from a dead stop. I did destroy like 3 sets of motor mounts, but i am pretty hard on stuff.

4500rpm in 3rd is where the limiter hits with 2.73 gears :D
88 Cougar
88 T-Bird
other cars that don't apply to this forum

AOD thoughts/recommendations

Reply #7 –
I really enjoy driving this car around, but it has fought me since day one. Just wanted a nice ride without a rollcage that could run on pump gas, have overdrive and run at least a low 13 second pass with fuel injection. It's odd spending this much time on something that isn't that fast. All the budget shopping may have gotten the best of me. I'll do something with the trans in fall/winter. Think it's time to hop back in the Cougar before winter rolls in.
1988 LX, 306 with GT40P heads, Downs Upper Intake on Truck Lower, Powerdyne Supercharger and T5 swap.  Scavenger Hunt Build at it's best.

AOD thoughts/recommendations

Reply #8 –
Quote from: Matt Jewell;462498
I really enjoy driving this car around, but it has fought me since day one. Just wanted a nice ride without a rollcage that could run on pump gas, have overdrive and run at least a low 13 second pass with fuel injection. It's odd spending this much time on something that isn't that fast. All the budget shopping may have gotten the best of me. I'll do something with the trans in fall/winter. Think it's time to hop back in the Cougar before winter rolls in.

Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go???

With Trick-Flow heads & cam, Cobra intake, 65mm T-body, 24 lb inj, Pro-M maf,  BBK shorties 2½" exhaust etc etc, my Bird would run 13.30s all day long and has gotten as much as 26 mpg on a trip to Carlisle... On 48*F evening it ran a best of 13.11@105... If I ever get it back together, I'm expecting 12.75 from the 331... The std bore 5.0 went 12.23 on a 75Hp shot of giggle juice, I didn't have tires that could hold a 150 shot out of the hole... Freind that I got nitrous kit from went 11.64 on slicks with similar setup as mine...

BTW trans was a stock Super Coupe AOD with Trans-Go shift kit, 2600 converter(not nearly enough), factory Turbo Coupe 3.73 gears... All options in place, ABS, ride control, dual power seats, working A/C etc... Car weighs 3760 with me...

From her glory days...

AOD thoughts/recommendations

Reply #9 –
Quote from: Matt Jewell;462498
I really enjoy driving this car around, but it has fought me since day one. Just wanted a nice ride without a rollcage that could run on pump gas, have overdrive and run at least a low 13 second pass with fuel injection. It's odd spending this much time on something that isn't that fast. All the budget shopping may have gotten the best of me. I'll do something with the trans in fall/winter. Think it's time to hop back in the Cougar before winter rolls in.

How much does it weigh? You have GT40P heads correct?

GT40P heads + stock AOD + full weight car = no 13s.

I had GT40P heads, GT40 intake, stock AOD, 3.73 gears in my car with a weight of 3700lbs+. Car would run (on street tires) 15.1-15.2@92 with a 2.5 60' on a cool day. Swapped in the AOD that's in the car (2800 stall non-lockup, etc) and the times dropped like a rock, 14.6@94 with a 2.3 60', still at 3700lbs+. Went with Edelbrock Performer heads, Performer RPM intake, still 3700lbs+ and runs 14.0@100 with a 2.2 60'. Better tires and fat ass will probably run mid 13s @ 102-104 with a 1.9-2.0 60'.

These cars are heavier than a Mustang and the AOD is a turd in stock form.
88 Thunderbird LX: 306, Edelbrock Performer heads, Comp 266HR cam, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, bunch of other stuff.

AOD thoughts/recommendations

Reply #10 –
306 with gt40P heads, e-cam with 1.7 rockers, downs ford upper with truck lower, 38lb injectors with Pro M meter, bbk headers and h -pipe, 3.55 gears and a Powerdyne Supercharger. I new the trans and converter would need addressing. I have 2 other cars that have been high 9's and spent 25 years in the speed shop business, so I know speed costs. I honestly thought I was going to buck the system and throw left overs together for  $2000. and have fun. It does idle well, seems to get decent gas mileage, and with the suspension upgrades handles well. Trans situation gets attention first.
1988 LX, 306 with GT40P heads, Downs Upper Intake on Truck Lower, Powerdyne Supercharger and T5 swap.  Scavenger Hunt Build at it's best.

AOD thoughts/recommendations

Reply #11 –
Quote from: Matt Jewell;462538
306 with gt40P heads, e-cam with 1.7 rockers, downs ford upper with truck lower, 38lb injectors with Pro M meter, bbk headers and h -pipe, 3.55 gears and a Powerdyne Supercharger. I new the trans and converter would need addressing. I have 2 other cars that have been high 9's and spent 25 years in the speed shop business, so I know speed costs. I honestly thought I was going to buck the system and throw left overs together for  $2000. and have fun. It does idle well, seems to get decent gas mileage, and with the suspension upgrades handles well. Trans situation gets attention first.


Huh??? It has a supercharger and won't run low 13s???

I doubt the transmission can be fully blamed for that...