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Messages - softtouch

2776
Electrical Tech / Re: Engine Stalling Intermittently on Deceleration
To fix deteriorated wire insulation I use a product called Liquid Electrical Tape. It's made by "Star brite" and comes in a yellow can with a applicator brush cap. The brush is too big and clumsy for car wiring but you can use something smaller and it works pretty good.

The insulation goes bad where the wires enter sensors and connectors.

Check where electrical supplies are sold. Mine is black but I think it also comes in red.
2777
Engine Tech / Re: Engine issues
Did your brother-in-law replace the water pump because it was over heating or because it was leaking?
2779
Engine Tech / Re: Some idle annoyances
I remember reading a Service Bulletin awhile ago that applied to cars with no A/C having idle problems. It had something to do with with  the ACC line to the EEC. This line tells the EEC the A/C clutch is engaged so the EEC can speedup the idle.This line out in the engine bay not hooked to anything was picking spurious pulses and confusing the EEC. The cure was to cut and tape up the ACC line near the EEC plug.
I know a lot of people on the board have removed their A/C, so it may be something to keep in the back of your mind even though it seems far fetched.
2781
Archive & Library (Read Only) / Re: Fuel tank level sending unit
If I am interpreting the '84 EVTSM correctly, using the wrong sending unit will make the gauge read backwards.
On the buttstuffog sender the resistance increases as the tank empties.
On the digital sender the resistance decreases as the tank empties.

Don't know if this applies to the newer models.
2783
Electrical Tech / Re: auto headlight
In the '84 EVTSM both the interval wiper governor and the automatic lamps relay are attached to the "shake brace".
The light sensor amplifier is behind the left hand side of the I/P.
2784
Audio & Other Aftermarket Electronics / Re: where is the factory amp...
Tapester
According to the '84 EVTSM premium sound does have door speakers.
There are two variations. Conventional radio where the extra amplifier drives all six speakers. Electronic radio where the extra amplifier drives the front four speakers, IP and Doors, and the radio drives the rear speakers.
The switch puts the amplifier in "Boost Mode".
2786
Drivetrain Tech / Re: Rear Axle Noise
The '84 shop manual says if the axle end play is more than 0.025 inch it can be fixed by putting a shim behind the C-Washer.
Using the C-Washer as a template make a shim the same shape as the C-Washer.
The axle must have a minimum end play of 0.005 inch.
2787
Electrical Tech / Re: clearing codes
We are not confusing "On demand" codes with "Continuous memory"
 codes are we?
The on demand codes are a result of the "Quick Test" detecting and reporting these codes. They are not from memory and can not be reset.

When the KOEO runs the on demand codes are reported first. After the last on demand code there is a six to nine second pause then a single seperator pulse followed by another six to nine second pause. Then the continuous memory codes are read out.

Only the continuous memory codes can be reset.
2788
Electrical Tech / Re: clearing codes
You are right. It's time to regroup. In '84 the cars with 5.8L engines did not use the EEC-IV system. They use a MCU and a feed back carb. You don't say what year the Bronco is and what the fuel delivery system is.
Besides it is considered a truck.
2789
Electrical Tech / Re: Voltage regulator letters
I=  Ignition switch (used with idiot light)
A= Alternator +
S= Stator
F= Field
Did I post a diagram for you with the two different hook ups, one for idiot light the other for ammeter? Or was that somebody else?
2790
Electrical Tech / Re: clearing codes
It does't matter whether you put the jumper in before or after the key is on.
Put the jumper on first: The tests start when you turn the key on.
Turn key on first: The test starts when you put the jumper in.

If you are using the check engine light (or you have a meter in the dash like I do) you put the jumper in first.

If you are working under the hood you do the key first.

When you pull the jumper to clear the codes, leave it out and turn the key off to finish-up the operation.

When you turn the key off, wait until the EEC primary power relay
drops before you turn it on again. About five to ten seconds. You can hear it if you listen close. It's in the dash to the right of center.

The caution about not disconnecting the battery is because there are other things stored in the KAM (Keep alive memory) besides the error codes.
There are tables with operating parameters stored in them that the computer will have to "relearn". It may run rough until the learning process is complete.
Relearning the parameters may be a good idea after you get the bugs cleared up.

Of course we never disconnect the battery with the key on.