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Messages - Aerocoupe

Other Vehicles / Re: new kid limo
Watch your front drive alxe angles with the spacers for a lift.  Anything more than a 2" spacer on the F150's is no bueno and the ride starts to suck.  I know you can use the Bilstein 5100's on the Expeditions like the F150's and you can rise them around 2.5 inches that way and the ride doesn't suffer and the front drive axle angle is affected as much.

I had the 5100's on all four corners of my old '14 F150 Limited and it was fantastic.  Will be doing the same thing on my '20 F150 as soon as the stockers start going to slush which is generally at the 40K to 50K mark.
Drivetrain Tech / Re: Axle swap
So from what I understand (Chuck or Eric correct me here) is that the:

1) 87-88 Turbo Coupes had the 8.8 rear end that was the same housing width as the 86-98 Mustang 8.8 housing and were disc brake.
2) The 88 XR-7 Cougar had a drum brake 8.8 that was the same width as the Turbo Coupe rear end from axle flange to axle flange but the housing is the same as the 86-98 Mustang 8.8 housing and not very common.
3) There were some 87-88 Thunderbirds that had an 8.8 with drum brakes but I believe the housing was wider like the 7.5" housings.

I looked at the chart and the XR-7 is not discussed not is any type of 8.8 drum brake rear end.
Drivetrain Tech / Re: Axle swap
Nope.  You need the 94-98 axles to keep the stock flange to flange measurement.  The front brakes are a nice upgrade being they have the dual piston caliper.  If you snagged the spindles they are not ideal on a stock k-member car due to their geometry but that can be dealt with via a bump steer kit.  I opted to go with the 96+ spindles on my stock k-member car as I knew a tubular k-member was going to happen and did not want to try and scrape up a set of the 94-95 spindles.

You do realize that the 94-98 GT and V6 cars have the exact same brakes, right?  In the rear the axles, brackets, dust shields, and calipers are the same.  Only difference is the housing in that one is for the 7.5 ring gear and the other is for the 8.8 ring gear.  As for the front they are straight across the same.  I pulled both my swaps from V6 cars being I already had the 8.8 housings and was converting from drum brakes.
Suspension/Steering / Re: Help Please. 11 inch brake upgrade gone bad.
Just to clarify, did you loosen the LCA bolts and reset the bushings with the suspension loaded? Would hate for you to spend the $$$ on the alignment and have it fall out later if they were preloaded. Not saying it would happen but again, it’s free.
Suspension/Steering / Re: Help Please. 11 inch brake upgrade gone bad.
So before you get all crazy, loosen the LCA bolts and drive it like Chuck suggested. It’s free and none of this makes any sense whatsoever. Something has raised the front suspension and you need to continue to do the free stuff before throwing money at it.

I’m going to say the LCA bushings are in bad shape they could have reset when you relaxed the suspension swapping the spindles.  Again, this only takes a couple hours to do and costs nothing. I will say the bolts may be rusted to the bushing sleeves based on what the sway bar end links look like. Soak the nuts with something like PB Blaster overnight and focus on loosening them not the bolt head i.e. back the bolt head and put the working tool on the nut.
Suspension/Steering / Re: Help Please. 11 inch brake upgrade gone bad.
Spindles look correct. I want to say the only odd ball ones were the SVO Mustang units.  They were based on the Mark VII spindle which has a larger taper in the spindle for the ball joint and some slight geometry differences but you would know if you had a set of them as it would swallow the ball joint without an adapter.

I would strongly suggest you 100% confirm the springs did not pop out of the “pocket” in the cup of the LCA. If that is good to go then loosen the LCA to k-member bolts and do as Chuck suggested.

On a side note you need to think about rebuilding those LCA’s and installing new sway bar end links. The years have not been kind.
Suspension/Steering / Re: Help Please. 11 inch brake upgrade gone bad.
So changing the height of the front vehicle directly affects the static camber.  Taller will pull the bottom of the tire in (positive camber) lower will push the bottom of the tire out (negative camber).

So on a 24" tall tire one (1) degree of negative static camber at the tire moves the top of the tire in 0.21" and the bottom out 0.21" and move the tire the opposite way for positive camber.  This is a very generalized down and dirty calculation just using tan theta = opp/adj with theta = 1 degree and adj - 24" and in this case 1 deg = 0.42".  For a tire another generalized notion is that its just not the top or bottom of the tire doing all the movement being the tire is pinned to the spindle at its center.  This would roughly split the movement equally to the top and bottom of the tire.

Anyhow, Chuck can really put some math to this but all I was doing was trying to give you an general idea as to how much you can expect the top and bottom of the tire to move when adjusting camber.

So if you lower a car by putting shorter springs in it you get negative camber and have to move the top of the strut towards the motor.  If you raise a car by installing taller springs then you will have to move the top of the strut away from the motor.

Putting the front sway bar in a bind can raise the car.  For the front sway bar you should be able to freely rotate it in the frame mount bushings with little to no effort if the bushings are made of prothane and greased.  If the frame mount bushings are OEM rubber then it will take a little effort to move them when new and the contact surface on the sway bar is clean and not pitted.  In either instance you should finish tightening the frame mount bushing bolts with the suspension loaded and the bar ends as close to parallel to the ground as you can get them.  With that once you install the end links the ends of the bar should still be parallel to the ground.  I tighten the end links until the bushings are flush with the washers and use nylock nuts.  Due to my cars being lowered I have to cut the sleeve that goes in between the bottom bar washer and the top control arm washer to get the bar ends parallel to the ground.  Which also means finding shorter grade 5 or 8 end link bolts at the hardware store.