Skip to main content
Recent Posts
Engine Tech / Re: Misfire - '88 TC
Last post by Ductape91 -

I never had to do that, just some wd40 and lightly tapped it down using a deep socket. The first time i did one on my 86 tbird it was taken apart and put back together on my dining room table.
Everybody uses the same stock images for the distributor gear so its hard to tell honestly. Quick look around shows a bronze gear for 80 bucks from esslinger, the kit is over 300.
Engine Tech / Re: Misfire - '88 TC
Last post by softtouch -
When I did this job I put the distributer shaft in the freezer the night before and heated the gear.
I still had to tap it on, but it may have helped a little.
Engine Tech / Re: Misfire - '88 TC
Last post by Mikey97D -
Finally found some free time to install the PIP.  Standard LX222 PIP fits and looks almost identical.

The idiot reinstalling the distributor gear though (me) not so good.  Minor chip on 2 teeth while driving it back on.  Don't ask.....I know better.

Where can I get this sintered gear?  Everything I see online looks questionable and made of steel.

Electrical Tech / Re: 83 Digital Dash Fuel Sending Unit Options
Last post by Ductape91 -
So i made another one based on the information i put in this thread.
I used a real nos ford bronco II fuel sender to make it instead of that chinese ebay one i used the first time.

I didnt like how the solder came out since its expired and expensive so i redid it and welded it to the tube instead since i had my handheld stick welder and some 1/16 stainless rods on me. I wish i had this the first time but its holding up.

I accidently blew holes in it trying to dial the welder in since it just has a dial for control and had it a bit too high at first for this thickness metal, it failed my "suck and blow" air test so i tinned it up with solder over the welds(since trying to fix it with the welder just made them worse) and now it passes the test.
Ill see how it looks in the gas tank when i stop back at the garage again.

Edit: that wordfilter is killing me today
Electrical Tech / Re: Digital temperature gauge correlation to actual temps
Last post by Ductape91 -
If these senders are resistance based you can use the gauge fix thing you splice inline i mentioned in my fuel sender thread(Tanks MeterMatch but there are others) to make the gauge read at any level you want, provided you know the values for each bar in relation to the temp so you dont blow your headgasket.
Have you ever checked the engine ground strap?
Electrical Tech / Re: Digital temperature gauge correlation to actual temps
Last post by EricCoolCats -
Paul, the bars are not representational of any value or increment. They are just there to show a general reading of the gauge, nothing specific. For all its 1980s aspirations, the full digital gauges are pretty much nothing more than abstract guesswork rather than actual, true displays of what's really going on. It's no wonder people sometimes hook up auxiliary gauges just to get a clearer picture of the temp and oil and volts situations.

Very rarely, grounding out the gauge can "reset" it. And a temp sending unit change can also help sometimes (if you can find one for a digital gauge).
Electrical Tech / Digital temperature gauge correlation to actual temps
Last post by V8Demon -
So, anyone who has driven one of these cars with a full digital gauge cluster is aware that the normal operation of the temperature gauge shows 4 bars illuminated when at operating temperature. 

My 87, which is heavily modified, had an inoperative gauge for years.  Fast forward to me properly wiring it up and getting the correct sender for it.  The gauge itself in this particular car will not show above 3 bars and it takes FOREVER to even read that.  I have not hooked up any mechanical gauge to the vehicle yet but suffice to say, it definitely gets hot when you get on her.  Big 3 core radiator, 180 degree thermostat and a high volume water pump are in the car and have been for a while but the gauge was inoperative before all that went in.

Anyway, my question is this.

What temperatures or temperature ranges do each bar on the digital temperature gauge represent provided the gauge, wiring, and sender are all working properly?  I can't find anything in the shop manuals for it.  My gauges all self test good as per the tests in the shop manual.

I've had an issue with the oil chime going off at approximately 20psi for YEARS (it persisted even after a full gauge cluster swap and a few different sending units) and wonder if I have an issue with the ribbon behind the cluster itself that may cause both of these gauges to read incorrectly.

Obviously I have to hook up some mechanical gauge to verify an actual temperature at this point but would LOVE know the temperature ranges for the actual digital gauge.

If anyone has this info, please share it.

Thanks in advance!