The MR2 is a ball to drive. Legalized Go-Kart and you must pay attention while driving. One sneeze and you could end up in another lane on the freeway. The '86 Mitsubishi truck also is a blast to drive. Completely rebuilt and with a Schneider racing cam and more gives it a very hefty lobe sound. I get asked all the time if I am running a V8. They are much surprised to be told it is only a 4 cylinder.
Wow, Kind of think that allowing water to go to the intercooler wouldn't be so great since water could cause so many issues with rust and deterioration, Etc. But, in the picture above I can see the duct work is quite large and I imagine has drainage of some sort to remove moisture. I installed a pair, but I moved them towards the center of the car more, instead of being closer to the front. I guess I will fab something to block them off in the winter time and open them up in the spring and summer for ventilation. Thanks Guys.
Hi, On the turbo Coupe model hoods, what does ford have in place to stop the water from rain or whatever from entering through the scoop holes. A picture would be great, so I could duplicate it onto my hood.
I was cruising through the internet and located this little beauty. Is this something that might hit production, or is it a load of hopes and dreams? Personally I love the body shape and would really like to see one on the road sometime. The specs show a lower then I would like in horsepower, but that design of the car is just very cool. Has anyone else found out anything about this yet?
Sounds good. What's up with the kill switch in plain sight lol
Not a kill switch, it's my external fuel pump switch. I run the impact switch in the trunk with this toggle switch that will kill power. Sort of a backup if in an accident. I also use it to shut pump off in case I am doing stuff where I have to turn ignition switch and not have the fuel pump running needlessly. It was a PIA to have pump running when checking electrical every time I turned the key on.
Well, I thought I would update the status on my project Thunderbird since it has been awhile. I have been working hard during spare time on the car and taken it out a few times as I tune on it. Here is a video of the latest startup out of the driveway in HD.
Thank you very much softtouch and Bodyman for the info. Especially Softtouch for posting manual pages. I suppose that the same idea of adjustment for the TV rod on a CFI will do for an Edelbrock carb as well? Also the throttle control.
I'll cross reference the adjustments from your manual pages to my aftermarket carb, which should be the same idea used in either case.
I was a little excited when I got to take my TBird out for the first time in almost 2 years. Too much work to list, but it is going along pretty nicely. Here is a video of the startup and gauge checks. I have some trany adjusting to take care of and I am sure more test drives are sceduled.
On the old CFI setup there were 3 existing linkages, One was the AOD kickdown rod, the next was the throttle cable and riding on the throttle cable is what looks like it is a cruise control cable? I am not locating any info on this piggy back cable on the throttle cable. It looks to be running to the driver side fender and possibly into the passenger compartment. Is there any step directions to setup for this 3rd linkage, if it is a cruise control cabling. it's been hard enough locating instructions for the kickdown rod adjustment, but I think I may have that figured out maybe.
I also wanted to ask concerning trany pressures on the AOD setup. From what I have gathered, I need to warm the car up, put in in neutral and have my pressure gauge installed...which I do. and to adjust the rod to where I have 5psi or less at idle. Closer to "0", the better. After adjusting, the pressure should come up to 35psi immediately with a hit on the throttle. I heard that it should also climb up to about 80psi when pushing throttle down harder. Then when it returns to idle, it should again be less then 5psi. I'm sure there will be minor adjusting when at this point on. It is so hard to locate any info on the rod version for the AOD, though it seems that it is the easier route to take when adjustment is concerned. Correct me if I am wrong on anything I mentioned.
Thanks guys for help. I feel sort of dumb on this one. After going over this problem in my head I realized what the instructions for the column to console were trying to say. The car will not start unless the transmission is in Neutral or Park. It doesn't matter if the column was in any position at all. So I checked the ratchets of the shifter and it seemed to be just a small amount from being in the Park notch 100%. Though it felt it was in park, just not quite enough to allow the safety switch to activate for starting. The way I found out was I moved the console shifter to Neutral instead of Park and the car started. This means I need to get back under the car and maybe this time I will adjust it first in Park and then see how the other gear notches fall when using the console shift. it will take some fine tuning, but I feel it will be ok.
The 1985 Ford Thunderbird with an AOD transmission was able to swap in a Console shifter from a 1987-1993 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 AOD and was a perfect fit. I reversed the transmission shift lever which was a tight fit, by loosening nut and sliding out the shaft enough to rotate it 180 deg. to the next locker flat spot on the edge of the shaft. The cable worked perfectly also.
Here is a latest pic, working with distributor, I may update to MSD
I wasn't sure if this was drive line electrical material or engine, so I chose engine for the thread post.
I am at the point of completing a Column to console shift change on a 1985 302 TBird AOD. Now, from what I have read concerning this change, the engine will not start if the column shift shaft (if still installed) is not in the Neutral position. The info I understand for this shift change mod states that when removing the column shift handle, place it into Neutral first, then remove the handle from the column. It also added that if the gear selector shift shaft (shaft going through the firewall) remained in the car, that the column selector needs to be in Neutral. So, if I am correct the neutral safety switch is in the steering column and even though it is no longer being used, it still stops the car from starting unless in Neutral. I asked because I am not getting an engine turn over when turning key to start with the old column shift shaft and gear selector handle still in the car. I plan on removing these items next, but I wanted to run the engine for a bit to make some adjustments with new console shifter, cable, and carb, and a couple other things. Also, after removing the old column shift shaft and shifter handle, do I need to solder the neutral safety and reverse light switch wires in a loop to close these 2 circuits so that they will work with the new console shifter?
