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Topic: POR on K member paint (Read 8801 times) previous topic - next topic

POR on K member paint

Hello, I am in the process of cleaning my freshly bare K member in my 88 Cougar, still installed in car.  I am using this kit  http://www.ebay.com/itm/POR-15-SUPER-STARTER-KIT-BLACK-Rust-Preventive-POR15-/140980668030?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item20d31a467e&vxp=mtr#ht_63wt_1170

starting with the marine clean and a scrub brush.  I am finding I still have quite a bit of the paint left and not in too bad of shape.

My goal is to use the metal ready next on entire surface and underside of fenderwell then rinse off with water, let dry then start POR painting.

My question is will the POR adhere ok to the painted surface?  I figure it's gotta be better than letting the stock finish try to hold off any future corrosion.

POR on K member paint

Reply #1
Do not use POR it SUCKS!!!

It peals and for the money the stuff SUCKS BIG TIME.
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

POR on K member paint

Reply #2
Sand the painted surfaces with some sand paper. If it doesn't say what grit to use in the instructions on the can I would use something between 180 and 320 grit, but even red scotchbrite would be better than nothing. Good prep and cleaning goes along way for proper adhesion.

POR on K member paint

Reply #3
Would it be best to leave the good painted srfaces alone and just coat the rusted and bare parts after being prepped?


POR on K member paint

Reply #5
Rust Mort, then a couple coats of some good industrial enamel or undercoating.
1980 birds X 3, 1982 bird, 1984 XR7, 1988 TC

POR on K member paint

Reply #6
didn't damiac paint his whole car in por?.
Quote from: jcassity
I honestly dont think you could exceed the cost of a new car buy installing new *stock* parts everywhere in your coug our tbird. Its just plain impossible. You could revamp the entire drivetrain/engine/suspenstion and still come out ahead.
Hooligans! 
1988 Crown Vic wagon. 120K California car. Wifes grocery getter. (junked)
1987 Ford Thunderbird LX. 5.0. s.o., sn-95 t-5 and an f-150 clutch. Driven daily and going strong.
1986 cougar.
lilsammywasapunkrocker@yahoo.com

POR on K member paint

Reply #7
I've had a lot of experience working with it, and I can say for sure that Por15 is good stuff. As long as your prep is good, Por15 will never peel or flake off. The Silver Por is extremely tough to sand back off once it cures, so don't get any onto places where you don't want it. You also should lay down the Por in thin coats, and allow 15-30 minutes between the coats, otherwise you will get bubbles trapped in the Por, which will compromise it's protection over the long term, and just generally make it look like ass. Again, proper prep beforehand is key here, as Por doesn't like slick or contaminated surfaces and will not stick to them whatsoever. Your steps should be: Degrease, Dry, Remove as much Rust as you can, Sand Entire Piece including any painted or slick areas, Degrease again, Dry, apply Metal Ready, Degrease again to remove MR residue, Dry, and then finally Paint with Por15. If you are using the Gloss Black Por15, it has to be topcoated for it to last in the long run, anywhere where it will be exposed to UV light.

POR on K member paint

Reply #8
I used Zero-rust... totally diff stuff that doesnt flake or crack, and flexes. not to mention way cheaper
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
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POR on K member paint

Reply #9
You'll never see Por15 crack, it's far too flexible of a coating. It certainly will flake/peel though with half-assed prep beforehand.

POR on K member paint

Reply #10
Once again POR 15 SUCKS they have had adhesion issues for years. Dont use it it will come off unless you have the part blasted. The stuff just does not stick unless the piece is absolutely prepped properly. And then it still comes off. Eastwood has very good stuff cheaper and better. The Body shop and JR stopped using POR 15 years ago. Just me got the info from JR who is the boss when it comes to finishes. Just saying. Save your self lots of grief and do not use that stuff.

JR recommends Eastwood Rust Encap. Much better and proven effective with no pealing!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

POR on K member paint

Reply #11
Not one idea about "pealing" or not, but if it peels, I'd  sure stay away.

I had good results a few years ago with the Eastwood stuff on the bottom of a wrecker truck we swapped cabs on.
'84 Mustang
'98 Explorer 5.0
'03 Focus, dropped a valve seat. yay. freakin' split port engines...
'06 Explorer EB 4.6

POR on K member paint

Reply #12
That Eastwood stuff is real good. Took us a while to figure out the POR was not that good. Thanks for posting your experience with Eastwood products. We really like it. I used POR on the TYPHOON and JR had a fit. It pealed off. So needless to say a lot of sing and wire wheel time and all is good in the world of chassis BLACK EASTWOOD PAINT !!!
I spend money I don't have, To build  cars I don't need, To impress people I don't know

HAVE YOU DRIVEN A FORD LATELY!!

POR on K member paint

Reply #13
I've used the Eastwood stuff to...its exactly like Zero-Rust (if not the same thing re-branded)
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
***** Project "EVOLUTION" 1987 Cougar LS  & 1985 Cougar Convertible *****
[/COLOR]
5.0 HO 306 roller block, machined GT-40P heads, Wiseco dished forged pistons, Eagle forged floating I-beam connecting rods, Lunati pushrods, ARP bolts, Scorpion aluminum 1.6 rockers, Comp Cams Magnum 266HR, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, MAF Conversion, 19# injectors, Ford Racing stainless P-headers, 2-1/2" cat-less exhaust w/ Flowtech Afterburner lers , SC AOD with 2800 BDR torque converter, 3.73 T-Lok rear, CHE rear control arms, full 2-1/2" frame w/1" jacking rails & seat supports, Rear disk brakes, Turbine wheels, All original interior w/ floor shift upgrade .......
Pretty much every panel on my 87 is new, rebuilt, or re constructed. :D
Join us on Facebook

POR on K member paint

Reply #14
Eastwood has the best coatings in the market. They have a red oxide primer that will kill rust. Just buff off the loose stuff with scotch brite pads, wire wheel, or sand paper. Then paint the part. You can even do it with a paint brush. It will even out and the rust is gone. Be careful to not get it on anything you don't want it on... it's not going to come off.  I have treated the frame of my 64 Galaxie with the primer and topped it with the chassis black. The chassis black is the perfect color. Not flat and not glossy. Looks just like the factory color of black. The underside of the body of the Galaxie was done with the red oxide primer and I used their liquid bedliner as an undercoat. Their liquid bedliner is tougher than the others I have seen in the market. It is a two part that you have to mix. Have not tried the rust encapsolator yet.