Skip to main content
Recent Posts
92
Misc Tech / Re: A Few A/C Part Questions
Last post by Ductape91 -
You can get an orifice "repair" kit that splices into the existing hose, or a whole new hose that has one in it.

Also, just grab a universal o-ring kit of some sort if you're unsure. They're not that expensive.

Im replacing the line along with all the others and wanted to know the actual original part number for it since i wanted a nos one, i think its yf-1170.
I wanted to find just a kit for the o rings since they seem to make them for every car, but i got my mustangs a/c to go over so i may as well buy one of those universal kits with like 1000 o rings so i can do that one too.
I have another hr980 compressor and was going to see what it takes to replace the bearing seal, i have some tools for that.
93
Misc Tech / Re: A Few A/C Part Questions
Last post by Chuck W -
You can get an orifice "repair" kit that splices into the existing hose, or a whole new hose that has one in it.

Also, just grab a universal o-ring kit of some sort if you're unsure. They're not that expensive.
94
User Rides / Re: Chuck's '83 TBird
Last post by Chuck W -
Well, I should've just done the 1K paint on top as well.


I spent a couple hours wet sanding and polishing the roof out, and if it weren't for the poor paint match (and the evidently too heavy application by me, resulting in runs that wound up darker after I sanded) it wouldn't look too bad. There is an ever-so-slight ripple in area of the patch, but you really need to be looking hard for it. The wrap will hide the color issues and you won't be able to see the ripple.
I spent a couple hours wet sanding down to about 3000 grit and then hit it with the polisher. Got rid of all of the over-spray, and I polished the whole roof for uniformity's sake.
It is what it is for now.

I was thinking about driving it to work on Monday, so I took it for a little drive today on a couple errands. Good thing too, as the fans aren't kicking on. The wiring looks to be fine, but the relay isn't triggering.
The relay I'm using has a flyback diode in it, so I removed the original one I had in there.
I ran out of time to connect the laptop to it and make sure it's sending the trigger (It was before I did all of this work) and I probably should open up the MS unit and make sure the fan control circuitry didn't get damaged somehow.

The clutch feels fine but it is now evident that the 1st gear syncros are bad. Not a huge deal, but still annoying.
95
Misc Tech / Re: A Few A/C Part Questions
Last post by Ductape91 -
What engine?

What website are you using to do interchange? Rockauto shows 2 lines for the 3.8/5.0. Factory or dealer air.


Its for a early 3.8 carb v6 with dealer installed air.
Im using ebay since im trying to find a nos or original one, but most of what i can find is the aftermarket(like 4seasons and such) part numbers for the later ones. The parts stores sites brings up a million mustang ones with it. If they are the same thats fine but i want to be sure.
I havent been to the tbird lately but i dont recall seeing a part number on that part on it when i was going over the a/c before.
I really need to know what o ring kit i need for this car before i start pulling apart anything.

Edit:
I wanted to add this pic i could dig up since this is really whats throwing me off.



It "looks" like an orifice repair/replacement but its only a single connector, all the repair kits ive seen are a small piece of tubing that has connectors on both ends and replaces the whole section. Is this stock or a repair to the stock tube?
96
Misc Tech / Re: Dropping CFI fuel tank
Last post by Ductape91 -
The later and earlier tanks have the same stuff you would check, filler neck gasket, fuel pump and sender gaskets and tank vent gasket.
Its just three bolts to get it down, one for the filler neck support(unless you want to undo the upper filler seal) and two for the tank straps to drop it. Just get the car up high enough to swing the tank straps out of the way. Lower it enough to reach in and disconnect the plugs for the pump/sender and vent valve.
97
Misc Tech / Dropping CFI fuel tank
Last post by Bird of Prey -
When the tank is full (or close to it) I get an odor of fuel in the garage after I take my Thunderbird out for a drive.  The car starts and runs great and I haven't seen any leaks or wet spots.  I'm wondering if I should check the condition of the gaskets and grommet on the fuel tank but all the instructions and tips I've seen are for later models with multiport fuel injection.  My car still has the factory CFI set-up so I'm hoping someone might be able to provide proper guidance on how to remove the fule tank from one of the earlier models.  My car is an '84 model with the original 5.0L CFI set-up.  Appreciate any help or tips!

Dan
99
User Rides / Re: Chuck's '83 TBird
Last post by Chuck W -
That is very off, you wouldve been better off painting the whole roof if you werent going to cover it.

That may be the plan in the future when the wrap wears out.

It could've been more due to the 2K configuration vs the 1K I used on the cage bits.

The wife's Bug is on the ground and running now, so I can at least get it out of the garage for the sanding I need to do.
100
User Rides / Re: Chuck's '83 TBird
Last post by Ductape91 -
That is very off, you wouldve been better off painting the whole roof if you werent going to cover it.
I heard silver paint is hard to get right regardless.