Skip to main content

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all Show Posts made by this member. Note that you can only see Show Posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Chuck W

1
Lounge / Re: AC Power grimlin
Without being in front of it, it's kind of hard to remote trouble-shoot, but that is an odd scenario.

It's highly possible that metal shelf is getting a mild ground through the concrete, which can be an electrical conductor.

One of the notes I found
Quote
Concrete on grade level, because it will absorb moisture from the earth and be a good conductor in direct contact with the earth, is always considered to be at ground potential

Probably why you were getting a mild shock with wet shoes on the slab, and why you may be seeing the minor voltage potential you are.

Insulate the shelf/rack from the concrete slab?
2
Electrical Tech / Re: EEC / computer power relay relocation
It's a pain to get to, but how often does one really need to access it. It shouldn't be a problem to relocate it pretty much anywhere else.

Thanks for the note on the EFI relay on the CFI cars. I'll be doing a port injection swap with a MegaSquirt on the LTS and I'll make sure I swap out the relay.
3
Other Vehicles / Re: Oops, I did it again. I bought a new car. (1986 Ford LTD wagon)
So, a little update.

Life and winter has hampered progress, but here's where we sit at the moment.

In the bay with the 2015-17 intake.



All with the hood closed.


I went to a 96-04 Kmember, as I needed a little more drop under the oil pan. Still needed to clearance the back of the Kmember to get the pan down and foreward.


I have about 1/4" between the oil pan and the rack, but as you can see, the pan is still tucked up under the K-member


Right now I'm sorting out motor mounts. I have a couple ideas on what I want to do, but we'll see which one pans out. Ironically, I may wind up welding the factory mount pads back on, even if they're in a slightly different location.

The only real clearance issue is the u-joint on the steering shaft with the DS exhaust manifold. I think I can make it work OK with a little engine placement, a spendy steering shaft, and some clearancing (meaning grinding).
6
T-Bird/Cougar Parts & Cars WANTED / Re: Looking for stock 5.0 EFI parts
I basically just need the harness for the injectors.

This is getting connected to a MegaSquirt, which only has 2 injector banks. I'm going to adapt the injector harness into the old CFI harness that went to the TBI unit. Basically batched like the 85-87 trucks.

(I have all of the wiring diagrams, etc)

I haven't delved into it too much here, as it's an "other" project (The 85 LTS).

I have an OLD EECIV to MS adapter board that I'm using, to just tie the MS unit directly into the existing harness on the CFI 5.0 with a couple modifications on the engine side.

7
Lounge / Re: Winter Projects?
You never want to do a rear window replacement on a Ghia  or any window with an "H" shaped rubber gasket surround EVER!!!

It is a work of art using  a long wire and lubrication to install.  Problem is the only people who know about this are either dead or on thier way so i had no supervision or guidance as to how to do it.  the wife and i struggled but we got it.

Sounds like the "rope" trick would've worked too. The windows on the Volvo 240s are held in the same way.

A piece of string/rope into the valley of the outside of the gasket, with both ends accessible from the inside of the car, usually on the bottom. Place the window in it's location from the outside, resting on the lower section of the gasket. Have one person hold it in place, while the other works inside to pull the rope out of the gasket, which pulls it over the sheetmetal and into place.
10
Engine Tech / Re: Re: Motor mounts
Thanks for info Chuck . Will 87 thunderbird turbo coupe 2.3 engine mounts(pedestals)  fit with 86 cougar xr7 2.3 ? Are they interchangeable  can I go with hydraulic mounts ? Any info were to by  stock direct fit thanks sal
Look back at my post where I linked to RockAuto (In red) for isolators that you can use. Pick some, hydraulic or solid, and install them into the stock brackets.

The 87-88TC brackets will work for the 86.

11
Engine Tech / Re: Motor mounts
If he doesn't have the original brackets, new isolators aren't going to help. Which was another reason I asked what poly mounts he used, as I'm not aware of any drop-in poly isolators for the stock-type brackets on the car.

As far as "performance" stock type isolators, there really isn't anything. You have to give up some strength to get a smooth feeling in the cabin. I edited my post with the RA link so it could be more easily picked out. The solids are probably the stronger of the two, but give up a bit of smoothness.

If you still have stock brackets, pick out a set of isolators and move on with things.  :dunno:
13
Engine Tech / Re: Motor mounts
Did you read any of the other posts? You never responded to the questions. You just basically repeated your original post.

Do you have your old stock mounts? If not, you're going to need to find a set of used stock 86-88 mounts for the brackets and then but some isolators like in the RockAuto link I posted above? It has SEVERAL options of isolators. The engine type doesn't matter, as ALL of the isolators are the same from 86-97.
14
Engine Tech / Re: Motor mounts
86 was the first year for the pedestal mounts. ALL TBirds/Cougars/Mk7s switched to that style mount. Regardless of engine.

The RA link I posted in my last post has both hydraulic and solid mounts listed.
15
Engine Tech / Re: Motor mounts
What mounts did you install? Regardless, poly are going to transmit more vibrations than the big stock gumballs. Especially on a 2.3T.

Did you save the old motor mounts, especially the bracketry? On the 86-88 you can just replace the isolators.

RockAuto can be kind of screwy on things like this.

They show squat for 86-88 2.3 cars, but plenty for the MN-12 cars, which use the same isolators. You could use any of the mounts listed ROCKAUTO LINK HERE with the stock brackets.