I'm sure most have seen hints, but I figured that I'd better make an official announcement.
I am currently NOT building motor mounts. I figure after 15 years it was time to take a break.
The main reason is that I just don't have the time these days to put to this. Any time spent on building mounts takes away from the multitudes of other things I want/need to do in my limited spare time.
I'm not officially closing the doors yet, but I have no plans to get back into production on any of the mounts.
I need to update the website to reflect this and include the info for replacement bushings, etc.
I have for sale a set of 16” x 7.5” Mustang “Waffle Star” wheels.
Standard Ford 5 x 4.5” pattern.
Other than being dirty, and having very minor curb rash in a couple locations, they are in good shape. I bought them for a project that I no longer have, and want to get them out of the shed. They come with the center caps.
I’m looking for [COLOR="#FF0000"]$100 OBO, picked up[/COLOR]. I don’t have the time to mess with shipping them. I will however be travelling out towards Branson, MO on Fri 6/19, and could probably bring them along, if you wanted to meet me between Indy and there. Email preferred (cwarren@indy.net)
So, other than the '83 TBird, I have a couple Volvos.
I have an '80 264 GLE that pretty much got all everything but the body/interior from my '85 244 Turbo, with a MegaSquirt upgrade. It's my nice weather daily.
Then before winter, I picked up this lump, to save the '80 from the salt. '96 850 NA, 5spd. It does what it's supposed to do.
OK, here's the deal. I've been getting a bunch of inquiries about the shock brackets, so I'm going to build a batch.
For those that don't know. Fox TBird/Cougar rear shocks are about 3" longer than those found in the 79-04 Mustangs. This wouldn't be an issue, but seeing as you can't find any quality shocks for the TBirds/Cougars, fitting those for a Mustang seems like a logical solution. While you can get them to fit if you try hard enough, the situation isn't ideal, and could have consequences, based on your driving style.
Anyway, the ones I make look like this, but are powdercoated black.
Here's the situation. I'm going to build a batch, based on demand, but I'm not going to do more than 20 sets of them. They are tedious for me to build, thus why I don't like to hassle with them.
The cost on them will be [COLOR="#0000FF"]$50/shipped[/COLOR] in the US.
Here's the rules for getting in on this. First, no money from anyone right now.
If you want in, you need to either send me an email, which is preferred, to [COLOR="#008080"]cwarren@indy.net[/COLOR] and include your real name, or a PM. If you send a PM, you MUST include your email address and your real name. I won't consider you a legitimate customer if you don't include this info. I want to know who I'm dealing with. All the full details will be needed later when it's time to finalize orders, organize payment, etc. If you're outside the US, please let me know, and we can figure out the additional shipping costs.
I'll order the laser parts when the commitments are all in, and I will order quantities based on that. If I only get 10 commitments, I'm only ordering parts for 10 sets.
So, some of you may remember my post from about two years ago Death of a Volvo. When the '85 died, I was driving a 245 wagon as my daily and picked up a 2-door for playing around with. Well, the wagon got old and I found myself wanting another 4-door as a driver. Back in March I drove up to Sheboygan and brought this back.
It's an '80 264GLE. Originally a 6 cyl/auto car that had been sitting since about 1995 with what was thought to have been a dead motor. ((bad headgasket was the rumor)
It looked OK, but underneath was a mess. I've had to go through every thing, replacing the fuel system, redoing the brakes, (some) new suspension stuff, etc. I also had all of the bits from the '85 turbo car. You can see where this is going...
The end result (forgive the bad cell phone pic, and the snow-covered shots from Snowpocalypse last week)
Main goal was to get it on the road, as that yellow '77 2-door is NOT the car I wanted to be driving in the winter...even though it did see some salt. :(
Nothing super fancy right now. 2.1L Turbo Motor with a manual trans, MegaSquirt install that ditched the mechanical fuel injection, better wheels and tires. A few other minor engine mods, such as a slightly larger cold side on the T3, later model, better-flowing intake and exhaust manifolds, and a full custom-built exhaust.
Still sorting out little details, but it's on the road and out of the workshop now, so motor mounts are being welded up again.
I have a set of the 17" Tri-Spoke wheels up for sale. Located in Indianapolis, IN.
They aren't perfect, but they would be an OK set for someone looking for an inexpensive wheelset for a 5-lug conversion.
The tires are Falken Ziex-512's (Date code of '06), 235/45 and 245/45. The tires have prob another year or two on them. I'd had these on my Scorpio and swapped wheels around, so thus the outer edge wear on the fronts (The Scorp had worn them on the inner edge). One has a patch/plug in it and one has some scarring from fender rub (on the inside of the wheel now)
One wheel has a bit of curb rash on it, and one of the rears has a small bend on the backside, but they all balance out OK, and I never had a vibration issue.
More pics-
I have the center caps as well.
I'd run them myself if I had something the tires would fit.
I'm asking [COLOR="red"]$200[/COLOR] - PICKED-UP
NO, I will not ship these and NO, I will not take the tires off
Email is the best and PREFERRED way to contact me. (I'm going to get an email telling me I have a PM...so just email me and save the hassle, please).
My brother's got a '98 Expedition with a bad head gasket, and he's asking if I can help him out with it. While I saw several mod motors in states of disassembly @ KB's, I haven't turned a wrench on one myself. Doing a little digging, it looks to be a c of a job, but the jury is out on whether the special tools are needed (to keep the cams/crank in place) to do the job. Some folks say that they just zip-tie the timing chains to the cam gears to hold their location, while others say that's not possible since the cam gears are fixed to the cams. Anyone done this job and have any insight?
I've decided to put the "new" XR-7 up for sale. Not really out of any kind of desperation, just more of an evaluation of if I'm going to have time to get around to doing what I want to do to it.
Short list of info: - 255/C4 combo - power driver seat - manual windows
Work done to the car so far: - Rebuilt carb (still messing with a buggy accelerator pump circuit) - New spark plugs - New brake pads and shoes, and bled system. New rear flex hose. - Lowered with FMS C-Kit springs in the front and cut springs in the rear - New battery - New headliner - So-so tires on "Snowflakes" - Fixed busted lights and turn signals
Pics for those who don't know the car.
I drive this thing 1 or 2 times a week (which equates to 15mi or 30 mi, depending on work schedule), and I've put 800-1000 miles on it since I put it on the road. It could stand to have a real tune-up, but I'm not wanting to invest too much in the engine/trans combo. The only real annoyance is the semi-functioning accelerator pump circuit. It's real touchy to get moving from a stop, and I guess I need to do some more serious cleaning of the carb to solve it. The exhaust isn't all that great, with a couple leaks here and there, but see above statement regarding that situation.
I'm asking [SIZE="3"]$500[/SIZE], which is less than I have into it. No use trying to beat me up on the price, as like I said, I don't NEED to sell it, but if someone wants it, I could use the space. It's not costing me much of anything to keep it. It would come with the Snowflakes and the 14" steelies that were on it, as well as a hard-to-find console for the car. The console isn't in the best of shape, but could be refurbished for when bucket seats are installed. NO...I will not sell parts from the car. If no one buys it, I'll eventually get to working on it.
There are a few sigs out there that are WAY too large. Since the old scroll bar from the old board is gone, folks need to shrink things down to a reasonable size, so as not to be tedious.
200 to 300 pixels tall is acceptable. If you don't know how large that is, 200 pixels is what the old board allowed before it scrolled, and my current sig is 200 pixels tall.
Yes, the user has the ability to turn off viewing of other members sigs, but we'd rather people be allowed some expression, as long as individuals use some restraint and common sense and police themselves.
The alternative is no images in sigs, or even sigs for anyone. Keep that in mind should you choose to complain about the rule.
Going to give this a try to allow me to keep the TBird accessible to drive (under the canopy) while I have a car apart in the drive and keep the garage clear for work space.
It's a 12'x30' unit. The poles near the house are ancd into the driveway, the one corner is attached to the garage post. Still trying to sort out the side in the dirt. Right now, 3 bases are attached to a board, and that board is held in place by an other with the car sitting on it.
I probably should've gotten a 10'-wide unit, so it would fit better on the drive, but oh well. It had it's first test of weather last night (about 1/2 hour after I got it up), and it held up fine.
I'm probably going to get a wall kit for it so I can block the side off near the fence, and at the gate, to better keep the weather off the TBird when it's out there.