OK Basics 96 Explorer engine, P heads, valve work SBC springs and some machining. Non-p head upper and lower intake, HO EGR spacer KB domed hypereutectic pistons, TFS track max stage 1 cam, double roller chain, moroso cast iron oil pump, ARP head and main studs, rod bolts and hardened oil pump drive BBK non-P headers, (makes life interesting), non catalytic H-pipe 2.5" Flowmaster straight through 2.5 lers and 2.5 tails adapted from Mustang GT tails, to which I added a pair of resonators to tame the drone. MAF conversion w 73mm housing, 30lb fuel injectors (these need replaced with 40+ that have tune data available) Walbro 255 AOD rebuilt with 4r70w stack and components from e-series van so that 1st and 2nd have the max possible number of clutches and steels, 2 inch OD band, stamped steel drums vs cast iron, needle bearings vs brass bushings. Essentially, the long way to the old wide ratio mod. I've done some rearranging of the center stack of the dash. 1 3/8 front and 15/16 rear sway bars 5-lug conversion: 2004 Mustang GT 8.8 (3.27:1) with Mach 1 calipers, pads, and rotors front and rear. 2004 knuckles, aftermarket non adjustable disc/disc prop valve, 2001 V6 booster and 93 cobra master Steeda X2 extended lower balljoints, 2000 Mustang convertible springs, for about 3 inches drop, Maximum motorsports CC plates. Electric fan I fabbed myself from some fuses, relays and a V6 Fusion cooling fan, and triggered from a 207 degree fan switch from an Escort GT, which is threaded into a hole I drilled and tapped into the top of the coolant manifold near the t-stat housing. 180 degree t-stat. Full digital dash, auto climate control, autolamps (transferred from my old bird which was an LX) Dash mounted tach Moates Quarterhorse tuning emulator, running a tune I kludged together (drivable these last few years, but quirky; get some FRPP injectors and have a pro do the tuning.) Extended wheel studs.
I've got a LH front strut that goes clunk over bumps, (whole front end is tight, everything was new with the 5-lug), I've got a set of offset rack bushings that never made it onto the car, and I've got a wheel bearing waiting to go on one side or the other of the front. I leak some ATF, despite having just put a new pan on it.
I'm leaving Michigan for NE Texas, and myself and my family are going small. I've parted with furniture, décor, papers and soon one 1988 Thunderbird. I'm looking for someone to give it to. No money, no obligations, just someone who appreciates our cars and who will put it to use in whole or in part. This person will be, by necessity, a fellow Michigander (my location is Lowell). My car has progressed and evolved as I have in the last 15 years, and you can learn most of what there is to know about it by reading my collected postings here on this site, and for what questions remain, DM me on the site or by email. I will include any spares I may still have, as well as my Tunerpro files on the tune I've been working on. EDIT: In case anybody can't be bothered to scroll, the car went to Gumby and his son. Proof of Life.
83-88 Ranger front rotors are available at almost any parts store and if not they can get them in a day or two.
You still need the Ranger's wheel bearings and dustcaps, you have to machine down the hat (0.15") to clear the outboard pad, and you have to use the brake lathe to reduce the rotor diameter by at least .15". If you're a pro mechanic, you have the facilities and equipment to do this, but if you're not, assume that NOBODY will do this for you, and the reason why they won't is liability.
That's a really good article. If you do the bench test, be certain the output not only scales down, but does so with accuracy vs the table in the article. It's a good idea to put vacuum to the sensor, and just check to make sure it HOLDS that vacuum for several minutes, because if it's leaking, it will give an inaccurate output.
That you clear keep alive memory, then get 10 good minutes says that your fuel trim adaptive is biasing rich. Super rich. Since your load sensor is the map, and probably the primary sensor for establishing fuel adaptation, I'd start there. You have no way of monitoring the output of this sensor, and if you had the live data value, I'm not sure reference data is available. The hard fact is that you have no way to test the output vs actual vacuum. If live data were available in parameter form, you'd compare it to an actual vacuum gauge. You need a known good sensor and a another 12v reset. You can also check for vacuum leaks, but based on the magnitude of your error, it would have to be a big one. I believe it's likely that your MAP is reporting less vacuum than actual. Keep in mind that the MAP itself can be leaking vacuum internally.
I want to say that SN95 springs dropped me at least 2, maybe 2.5. I've got a fairly apparent tuck in my wheel wells. In 7 or 8 years I settled to an overall drop of 2.75.
Part of the reason vac leak issues are so problematic on SD cars is that if vacuum is leaking, not only do you have the issues that come along with a vacuum leak, but you also now have a skewed MAP value. On GM cars, we'd use that fact as a preliminary confirmation of any suspected vacuum leakage.
The MAP sensor performs the same function as a MAF would if you had one, but it bases it off of VACUUM MEASUREMENT. I hate that you can't monitor a datastream before 92, because we could just compare actual to measured. Failure mode example: idle vac actual is 20.5 inhg, but MAP is bad, so MAP is saying it's 13.9 inhg. Is this scenario, you have good vac, but since the MAP data to EEC is bad, EEC's load calc is also bad. (garbage in, garbage out) EEC advances timing and adds fuel for power enrichment, meanwhile, TP has not changed, and HEGO is pegging rich. Rich HEGOs in power enrich mode is not unexpected, but 1.0v ish from TP may or may not flag a fault. On-board sensor diagnostics is hard for EEC4, especially when you're talking about close-range or in-range failures. MAP, doubly so, because MAP is one of the sensors that most on-board sensor diag relies on for known value assumptions. Most MAP diags i've done in the past 10 years have been GM, because they use it in conjunction with MAF while Ford dumped it completely for MAF, and I just don't see those cars vary much. If we had access to an appropriate year PC/ED manual, we could test using reference values (sensor output voltage relative to vacuum measurement). A known good sensor from the parts store is cheaper that a PC/ED or access to one, so Before you chase those balloons any further, try a known good MAP.
I want OP to spray brake cleaner around the intake side of those injectors at idle, as well as the general space under the plenum. Maybe try a known good MAP sensor. Is OP measuring vac at the booster, the PCV or the MAP? That upper intake has been off and the injectors out, 9 of 10 times, it's a vacuum leak someplace that's getting overlooked in the previous work area. Is MAP (as the primary load sensor) connected to the upper, and is it connected in the right place? Were the injector o-rings lubed before installation into the manifold? A torn injector o-ring that was installed dry will vacuum leak and you'll never hear it.
