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Messages - JeremyB

31
Misc Tech / Re: HR980 A/C Issues
Externally, the length. FS6 is longer. Also, the FS6 has a low pressure port on the manifold, 6P148A doesn't. It's on the acspoogeulator hose assembly.
Internally, the displacement. 148cc vs 171cc. Same piston diameter, longer stroke. FS6 has forged pistons vs extruded. Both 3 piston double sided compressors.

I couldn't remember the exact numbers and for better or for worse the Google search results were me asking about it 15 years ago, lol.
32
Misc Tech / Re: HR980 A/C Issues
Yes, I think the FS6/6P148A conversion is the right option. Even a NOS HR980 has 30+ year old O-rings and internal non-metallic gaskets and is still non-repairable when it dies. You can still buy a 6P148A/FS6 compressor and will be able for years to come. When you get a new compressor, buy new - not remanufactured.
33
Misc Tech / Re: HR980 A/C Issues
Awesome, thank you. Only problems are, not being able to run the newer refrigerant, and you never know how long they'll last being used products and all. I was hoping for NOS bolt-on, which would make things so much easier. But that's not the life of an enthusiast of an older Fox car.
With the newer parallel flow condenser and some judicious non-use of the high blower fan setting while the car is heat soaked and at idle, the HR980 would be fine on R-134a from a pressure standpoint.

The bigger issue is that the HR980 uses viton seals. Viton isn't considered compatible with R-134a. So long term use will most likely cause leakage and failure of the compressor.
34
Misc Tech / Re: HR980 A/C Issues
The hose might work, but it's a different P/N and shape than the 3.8 hose.

Quote
Another option (won't look original) is to get the brackets for a FS6 compressor and have an AC shop make the lines for the car. Pricey though.
That's his plan. Some 3.8s came with 6P148A/FS6 compressors. Hoses are available.
35
Misc Tech / Re: HR980 A/C Issues
The 'hard' part is finding the brackets for the 6P148A/FS6. Everything else can be easily bought new (although I'm eating my words as I had no problem finding all the lines for the last 20+ years, but the discharge line is a bitch to find).

Your P/S Pump stays the same. You just need a new high pressure line. [Link]

There are 3 AC hoses. The Discharge line (Compressor-to-Condenser), Liquid  Line (Condenser to Evaporator), and Suction Line (Evaporator to Compressor).

The Discharge line has a little ler on it. [Link] I can only find it on ACKits.com (they're legit).
The Liquid line is the same no matter what compressor you have. [Link]
The Suction line contains the acspoogeulator, that big aluminum can by the evaporator. [Link]
The evaporator went from nuts on both ends to a springlock for the liquid line for '87 - but that's extraneous for you. Although not for me since a cursory search shows the line is NLA for '87-'88.

The Condenser is the same no matter what compressor or engine you have. [Link]

The HR980 system isn't a dealer add-on. Those use different components throughout. TXV instead of orifice tube, etc. I think it was just Ford's poor attempt to go to a serpentine setup when A/C was still an option on new cars. It's the only serpentine setup I've seen that doesn't use an automatic tensioner. I bought a belt tension gauge a few years ago and was FINALLY able to properly tension the  thing.

Looking here, it says it was
HR980 from 1983-1985.5
6P148A from 1985.5-1986.5
HR980 from 1986.5-1988

That trends with what I've seen. My '85 and '87 were HR980. I only saw '86s with 6P148s when I converted my '87 in 2005.
37
Misc Tech / Re: Air Conditioner R134a conversion
So waaaay back in 2006 I had all the seals/o rings in my Thunderbird's AC system replaced and the system filled with R12. It lasted till this week. It leaked out, and being that the A/C components are original to the car I'm planning on swapping everything out to new parts and converting to R134a. I'll be grabbing a brand new compressor, all lines, and a new condenser from Rock Auto. I'm just looking for feedback on how well the system changed over to R134a works.
You're replacing everything but the evaporator, hard to go wrong there! Get a new compressor, not reman. Get a piccolo or parallel flow condenser, not tube/fin. Rockauto doesn't have any condensers in stock, so you'll need to use another supplier.
They make kits where you get a compressor, and a hose or two - which will save some money vs buying them piecemeal. 

Blow out the evaporator with chlorinated (nonflammable) brake parts cleaner to remove the old oil.
Add in new PAG oil, pull a deep vacuum, and recharge with pure (don't get any with additives or leak-stop) R-134a. Boom, you're good to go.
39
Drivetrain Tech / Re: Axle swap
It's been a minute, but I'm running 99-04 axles  and SN95 solid discs in my 87 7.5" rear end.

On paper it works perfectly, but I had to put small spacers to get the disc and caliper to properly align IIRC.
40
Engine Tech / Re: Heating issues and looking for input.
Again, AC car with a Mark VIII fan and DC controller.
I blew up my Gen 1 DC Control unit when I shorted the wrong pins while on the car. Just really dumb human factors design ( what you would expect from a EE, lol). Looks like his Gen 2 controllers don't have that issue

I've moved on to an AutoCoolGuy controller. Does everything DCC does without the long lead time and difficulty contacting the owner for support. I like the sensor much better than DCC's in-fin setup.

AutoCoolGuy's website and units are much clunkier looking though!

https://www.autocoolguy.com/
41
Engine Tech / Re: Holley Terminator X
Forum won't let me quote Aerocoupe. Odd...

I think the OEM ECU is still the tits. From a basic ECU standpoint it still kicks the piss out of any aftermarket system.
However, the physical ECUs are getting old and in shorter supply. Ford isn't making all of the connectors to be able to make a OEM-type new harness from scratch. You could still use COTS connectors and make a new harness, but that's quite a pain. I'm leaning towards going full aftermarket. I just don't want to deal with 32+ year old electronics when there are other options.
42
Engine Tech / Re: Heating issues and looking for input.
My car is heating up in Atlanta traffic. Built motor with turbo still running stock radiator with Black Magic 12" electric fan.

At first I was thinking bigger is better with radiator but recently I've heard that the 3 and 4 row radiators put more pressure on the water pumps. So should I stick with a 2 row aluminum radiator and upgrade the fan to a dual that covers the entire radiator? car runs on the open road at 193 and climbs to 204-205 before light turns green then drops back down. Climbing hills it also climbs up in temp quickly.

Suggestions on fans, radiators? Kind of being over whelmed by the selection of parts available at Summit racing. Currently plan to swap out thermostat for a 160 this weekend.
The 12" Black Tragic (in all fairness, I think they've gotten much better over the years) isn't doing you any favors. That is a tiny fan! If it was only overheating in the city (<45mph) I'd say you only need a fan. When you say temps climb when going up hill, is that <45mph or even on the interstate?

I'd probably go with a 16" single fan. Flex-a-lite, Spal, Summit, should give you a decent product. Ignore cfm (at least between brands) and look at amp draw. For a given fan diameter, amp draw (power) is what dictates cfm.
Example: Flex-a-lite 16". 18.5A, 3000cfm. Spal 16", 20.8A, 1918cfm. Does the Flex-a-lite really suck 50% more with less power? No. They inflate the hell out of their flow numbers. That's not to say Flex-a-lite make a bad product, just that you need to compare apples-to-apples when shopping for a fan.

If your radiator has seen better days, I'd bet a parts store single row would do fine.

Adding rows shouldn't actually put more pressure on the water pump. They'll actually put less pressure on it. The rows are in parallel so they add total area to the flow path. The downside to adding rows to a radiator is it increases the amount of pressure needed to pull a cfm of air through the radiator core. Your radiator fan becomes less effective.

Straight vs curved blades. Curved blades are quiet, straight blades pull more air when the pressure drop is higher (3-4 row radiator, added oil/intercoolers in front of radiator).

Lowering your thermostat to stop overheating is a stop-gap measure. Once  your 'stat is fully open a 160 flows as much as a 180/195 degree 'stat. It adds some head room before you overheat but on a hot day in traffic or a long hill, you'll still overheat.

If I were spending your money I'd probably buy this fan: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spu-ix-30102621 and flush the radiator if it's got any deposits. If that doesn't fix it, buy something like this radiator: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-384052/reviews
44
Engine Tech / Re: Holley Terminator X
Yeah, I can see about replacing the harness!

I haven't looked into replacement harnesses much, but on paper an all-in setup for the PiMPxs is $1400. Pure plug-n-play except wiring in a WB 02 (the leads are there though). Has self-learning like the Holley.

Wasn't sure if you'd looked into it and found some drawbacks down that avenue. I'd like to go standalone eventually and get a new harness too. I don't have an issue tuning an EEC-IV, but they're getting harder and harder to source.