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Topic: 3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing (Read 48815 times) previous topic - next topic

3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing

Reply #30
Quote from: 84 Fila;144214
For all those that don't know, what can you get a 3G from. And what of those have the different "levels" of power?


94/95 mustang 5.0, 94-04 v6 mustang, and 3.8L taurus'. those are 130 amp.
1979 Ford Fairmont
[/B]
5.0L/4R70W/8.8"/5-lug/3" Exhuast


3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing

Reply #31
Mine is from a 2000 3.0 Whats that?

3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing

Reply #32
3.0l?
1979 Ford Fairmont
[/B]
5.0L/4R70W/8.8"/5-lug/3" Exhuast


3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing

Reply #33
Yeah, a 3.0 Tarus. what 3g is that, the 95 amp? And where can you get the 200 off of?

3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing

Reply #34
Quote from: 84 Fila;144222
Yeah, a 3.0 Tarus. what 3g is that, the 95 amp? And where can you get the 200 off of?

that one isnt going to work. the bolt pattern is too wide to fit in the bracket. it is a 130 amp though. i dont know if there is a vehicle out there that has a 200 amp, except maybe a DPS car.
1979 Ford Fairmont
[/B]
5.0L/4R70W/8.8"/5-lug/3" Exhuast


3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing

Reply #35
I don't think 200A came on any factory car, maybe police vehicles. The warranty of PAPerformance's 200A sucks too, the "130" (160A) one has a lifetime warranty for the original owner though. Was set on the 200 until I found that out. Being able to warranty them through PepBoys makes the decision easier - no shipping charges for warranty.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing

Reply #36
Fit on my car just fine. But I have a different setup then you guys do. Would a 3.8 be better for this car?

3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing

Reply #37
what does your bracket look like? i used one from a 92? 3.0L and it was too wide. if it fits, then your good! no need to find another one.
1979 Ford Fairmont
[/B]
5.0L/4R70W/8.8"/5-lug/3" Exhuast


3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing

Reply #38
I have old school, serp and V belt setup.
The Alt itse;f

The alt in the car, and it's bracket


3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing

Reply #39
Quote from: Seek;144211

Sorry for getting off topic in this thread, but I don't even know what it was started for :dunno: What emails? It seems like this was meant as a private message or something.



your not off topic,, your just a thread hijacker,,,,,,,,:D :D :D :D

my comment was some pm's i got on 3g conversions. Ive never done this yeat but i think its farily simple and i know i can help others if they need it.  I just figured the Coolcats.net website might wanna upload the "before and after" drawing in the tech section.

on your problem,,, it seems to be interesting that you intalled a different battery with the same results. 

get a new alt and before you do anything,,,, even start it,,,,
remove any and all fuses that are not critical to the engine running.

see if the problem occures again.
remove every stinking fuse even if you lose your dash, interior lights, ect ect.  drive it around for a while on that day and then see if the charge voltage is lower.

if it is not,, start putting in fuses one at a time until you see the problem show back up again,,, there might be a faulty wiring harness in your car.  isolating it to the circuit is what needs to happen next.

3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing

Reply #40
I only had my battery tested as I was unsure how it was doing after that alternator, and it failed. I did try other batteries, but I assume the alternator being bad was the cause of it not working right on them. I doubt the battery went bad between the few hours of tearing one alt out and putting a new one in, just over the 6 weeks of having to use that alt.

So it went from alternator with bad regulator, alternator with shorted diodes or something destroying part of my battery (was fine when I had it tested before that alt), to a new alternator but me not wanting to use it on the bad battery due to possibility of it killing the new alt. So I bought their cheapest battery that would fit to get me out of there and so far, voltages seem stable. My gauge inside the car now reads 14.6v on start and drops down to 14.40-41 with very rare drops to 14.35 (I have it regrounded now, its close to the voltage at the battery) with exception of...12.55v at idle with all accessories on and electric fan running. Keep in mind my idle is set to like 700-800rpm's (factory gauge shows ~650-750).

Drove 30 miles so far and all's good. Just need to move the digital multimeter/radio/clock memory wire back to the battery side of the car on a fusible link (didn't think about it also being able to show fuse status between the alt and battery - its attached to a fuse block near the alternator).
1988 Thunderbird Sport

3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing

Reply #41
All's good now, have my $50 back from Costco too. Lost some volume on my stereo though (have to turn up to ~42 instead of where it was at ~34 before).

edit: Didn't think about it before, but someone mentioned (after coming back to me a couple hours later) to try flipping the + and - multimeter probes around to get rid of the DC readings and sure enough, clean AC reading from my multimeter now. New alt/battery gives me a 00.0 reading. 14.42v DC at the battery and 14.39v at the dash now.
1988 Thunderbird Sport

3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing

Reply #42
Quote from: jcassity;143715
ever notice that big ass diode near the eec test connector?  ask about what that things purpose is.
IIRC,, there are a couple (maybe one) diode in the harness loom near the starter relay or alt ouput harness ect along the side with the battery.  check that out cause i think i remember one being in that harness and if its shorted,, you know the deal.


I think you are talking about the arc suppression diodes for the A/C clutch magnet and the starter relay.

They provide a path for the current induced by the collapsing magnetic field so it does not arc across the contact that opens the circuit.
In the case of the starter relay, that would be the ignition switch.

If a relay has a polarity requirement for hooking it up, it has this diode built into the assembly.

3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing

Reply #43
bump,, got a pm on this very over asked question. 

Can we sticky this?
PPPLLLLEEEAAASSSSEEEEE

3g install **go directly to post 50 for drawing

Reply #44
Awesome Thread! Great Work!

I'll definatly be looking out for a 3G at the junkyard on the next trip. There was so many tauruses last time i went, It was making my head spin. :hick:

Need to clarify the years though, is it Any 3.8 Taurus~Or just certain years?

Playing around schucks online, It looks like 90-95  3.8's had the 130amp all with the same bracket style.
However the 96-99 Still 130amp-3.0l though, And looks like it has the same mounting style?, just bulkier?
2000up is a whole redesign looks like~100-110 amp.

hehe, Schucks has crown vic police interceptor alternators ('95ish) and they are rated at 130amp as well. :hick:
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~