Hello, I am in the process of cleaning my freshly bare K member in my 88 Cougar, still installed in car. I am using this kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/POR-15-SUPER-STARTER-KIT-BLACK-Rust-Preventive-POR15-/140980668030?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item20d31a467e&vxp=mtr#ht_63wt_1170
starting with the marine clean and a scrub brush. I am finding I still have quite a bit of the paint left and not in too bad of shape.
My goal is to use the metal ready next on entire surface and underside of fenderwell then rinse off with water, let dry then start POR painting.
My question is will the POR adhere ok to the painted surface? I figure it's gotta be better than letting the stock finish try to hold off any future corrosion.
Do not use POR it SUCKS!!!
It peals and for the money the stuff SUCKS BIG TIME.
Sand the painted surfaces with some sand paper. If it doesn't say what grit to use in the instructions on the can I would use something between 180 and 320 grit, but even red scotchbrite would be better than nothing. Good prep and cleaning goes along way for proper adhesion.
Would it be best to leave the good painted srfaces alone and just coat the rusted and bare parts after being prepped?
I have very little experience with POR 15, only on the top side of some rusty floor pans years ago....so not real sure. Should be fine coating everything with proper prep.
http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/POR15ApplicationInfo.pdf
Rust Mort, then a couple coats of some good industrial enamel or undercoating.
didn't damiac paint his whole car in por?.
I've had a lot of experience working with it, and I can say for sure that Por15 is good stuff. As long as your prep is good, Por15 will never peel or flake off. The Silver Por is extremely tough to sand back off once it cures, so don't get any onto places where you don't want it. You also should lay down the Por in thin coats, and allow 15-30 minutes between the coats, otherwise you will get bubbles trapped in the Por, which will compromise it's protection over the long term, and just generally make it look like ass. Again, proper prep beforehand is key here, as Por doesn't like slick or contaminated surfaces and will not stick to them whatsoever. Your steps should be: Degrease, Dry, Remove as much Rust as you can, Sand Entire Piece including any painted or slick areas, Degrease again, Dry, apply Metal Ready, Degrease again to remove MR residue, Dry, and then finally Paint with Por15. If you are using the Gloss Black Por15, it has to be topcoated for it to last in the long run, anywhere where it will be exposed to UV light.
I used Zero-rust... totally diff stuff that doesnt flake or crack, and flexes. not to mention way cheaper
You'll never see Por15 crack, it's far too flexible of a coating. It certainly will flake/peel though with half-assed prep beforehand.
Once again POR 15 SUCKS they have had adhesion issues for years. Dont use it it will come off unless you have the part blasted. The stuff just does not stick unless the piece is absolutely prepped properly. And then it still comes off. Eastwood has very good stuff cheaper and better. The Body shop and JR stopped using POR 15 years ago. Just me got the info from JR who is the boss when it comes to finishes. Just saying. Save your self lots of grief and do not use that stuff.
JR recommends Eastwood Rust Encap. Much better and proven effective with no pealing!!
Not one idea about "pealing" or not, but if it peels, I'd sure stay away.
I had good results a few years ago with the Eastwood stuff on the bottom of a wrecker truck we swapped cabs on.
That Eastwood stuff is real good. Took us a while to figure out the POR was not that good. Thanks for posting your experience with Eastwood products. We really like it. I used POR on the TYPHOON and JR had a fit. It pealed off. So needless to say a lot of sing and wire wheel time and all is good in the world of chassis BLACK EASTWOOD PAINT !!!
I've used the Eastwood stuff to...its exactly like Zero-Rust (if not the same thing re-branded)
Eastwood has the best coatings in the market. They have a red oxide primer that will kill rust. Just buff off the loose stuff with scotch brite pads, wire wheel, or sand paper. Then paint the part. You can even do it with a paint brush. It will even out and the rust is gone. Be careful to not get it on anything you don't want it on... it's not going to come off. I have treated the frame of my 64 Galaxie with the primer and topped it with the chassis black. The chassis black is the perfect color. Not flat and not glossy. Looks just like the factory color of black. The underside of the body of the Galaxie was done with the red oxide primer and I used their liquid bedliner as an undercoat. Their liquid bedliner is tougher than the others I have seen in the market. It is a two part that you have to mix. Have not tried the rust encapsolator yet.
Once the rust has been converted, any non-pourous coating will work to "encapsulate" it, it's only just a matter of personal preference which one you want to use. If you don't convert the rust prior to using the products though, you just wasted your time, as the rust will continue on underneath the coating until it gets bad enough to flake it back off. Don't get me wrong here I really like eastwoods stuff, but wouldn't recommend their Rust Encapsulator over Por15, as it clearly is an inferior coating. I've used both extensively, and many other competent body/paint people would agree, but as always people are only gonna go with whatever they see as being best inside their mind, regardless of reality. I know what I'm sticking with though, the proven winner. :)
How about this stuff, in white to spray my oxford white subframe?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zero-Rust-Safety-Blue-high-solids-phenolic-modified-alkyd-coating-controls-rust-/200787838913?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item2ebfe347c1&vxp=mtr#ht_2573wt_679
If your more concerned with price than quality, I'd say go for it.
I used Zero Rust on my old snapper Riding Lawnmower and it does work. Seems to hold up well.
That little can in the starter kit should be just right for the size job. I used "Chassis Saver" before on the rear chassis of my '96 Cutlass a few years ago. That stuff worked well, only thing is it didn't store well and I lost half a $40 can of it! I learned later to pickup a couple of Mason jars to store it in.