I'm wondering something here. I've had a project in the back of my head for a while now but I ran into a snag when I tried to do it a while back.
The fuseboxes that are under the hood of modern vehicles are all fed from one common positive and then distributed through the individual fused circuits from there, as opposed to being inline fuse circuits. Now what about the under-dash fuse panels? AFAIK those are all inline fused circuits fed from wherever upstream from the battery, correct? My point being that every fused circuit on the panel has its own 12v+ in and a 12v+ out right?
And while I'm on the subject, I searched high and low to find an aftermarket inline fuse block, but I cannot find one that is not a common 12v+ variety, which is not what I'm looking for. Does anyone know of one that even exists?
Looking for just a working fuel gauge from preferably a broken cluster. I have no desire to buy a whole cluster, so if you've got a busted one with a working fuel gauge I'd like the gauge.
For those of you who didn't see it on my project thread I thought I would share:
I bought it used, but here is a little info on it:
Quote
The ASC Inalfa F700 pop-up is our largest seller (most vehicles). - Dark tinted glass - Polycarbonate frame - Removable glass - Curved leading ege - 16 in x 31 in size fits many vehicles - Three year warranty
And here is what it looks like:
I'm super psyched so I thought I'd share. Again.:)
Ok, I ordered the ES main bushings for my new TC sway bar but here is the problem... the bushings are greasable and came with a new bracket with a grease fitting to allow it to be greased, but the bracket is way too short. I ordered it for the TC so I don't understand what's wrong now. Any one see this problem before? I can't find anything about it here or even on Google.....
Well my engine light has been on for a while, I figured because of no EGR but I decided to self test anyway. I got some strange ones.
KOEO I got, 31 -EGR valve position sensor failure, no surprise, 67 -Neutral safety switch curcuit failure?, 84 -EGR solenoid failure, again, no surprise, 85 -Canister purge solenoid curcuit failure, that explains some things but I have no idea why its showing up.
CM I got, 29 -VSS reading malfunction???, 31 again, 51 -ECT signal too high?, 54 -ACT signal to high?, and 96 -fuel pump secondary circuit failure?
I tried running a KOEO but it won't work. What I mean by that is when I start it up it idles normal for a second, then jumps to about 2000 real quick then back down to just below normal, and then I get a solid CEL and let it sit for a few minutes, never got anything. I did this a few times. Same thing every time. Never got an EID code either. I have no idea why its doing that to me...
Also I'm a little confused about why the heck I'm getting weird codes like 29, 51, 54, 67 and 96. Does anyone know how to clear the CM codes? I'd like to clear them and then drive it for a few days and see if they return. Also how the heck to you fix 85?
So I was reading over CoolCats earlier and reading about the stock brakes, I noticed that Eric's said that some 88 v6 cars came with 10" drums in the rear. I never gave it much thought before, thinking that since my car came v6 and completely optionless, that I surely had the 9"s out back. I went to check it out just for kick's and what do you know, I do have 10"s.
Now part of the reason I've been trying to find a decent TC rear was too ditch the wimpy 9" drums and get some stopping power. And then of course the fact that discs are easier to work on later and of course for the Trac-Loc. Now that I realize I have 10" drums, my question is - does it really make a noticeable difference between the 10" drum brakes and the 10" disc brakes? Because if not I could just swap the differential and get my trac-loc and save a lot of money and time trying to find a whole unit and bother with the brake lines etc etc etc....
And second part that's puzzling me is suspension quirks. My rear end has a lot of lateral movement. If I stand on either side of the car by the trunk or next to the rear windows, or anywhere in between, I can rock the car back and forth a lot. And I don't mean roll the body back and forth, I mean lateral movement of the whole car side to side. Is this a normal function of the stock control arms to have this much movement? If so then CHE's are DEFINITELY in my future.
I also have a lot of play in my rear end. And what I mean by that is if I'm under the car and the trans is in P or N, I can rotate the driveshaft a lot. Like a quarter of a turn. I've always assumed this is normal because auto cars I've had in the past have a little bit of forward/backward movement when in P but I thought that was the parking gear in the transmission that was the culprit for that. What I'm saying is, is it normal to have that much play in my diff?
And then the next thing is that when switching from D to R or vice versa, I occasionally get a ding in my rear axle that sounds literally like someone tapping a bell. I can also get it to do it if I rock the rear end of the car when it's parked. Why does it do that, and is it something that I really need to fix before my axle falls apart?
Another thing that bothers me is that when going over bumps/potholes I get small clunks and rattles from what sounds like any wheel that hits it. Not serious sounding problems, but the kind that make people riding in your car think its nothing more than a 23 year old jalopy from the 80's. I've checked all the bushings and things that I know about but still cannot find the culprits. I know a few years back when I replaced my rotten/non-existent sway bar end link bushings it made a big difference not to have those washers rattling around but I've stiil got some problems somewhere.
Another thing is that if I jack the front end up high enough to get the tires off the ground if I shake the tires along the horizontal axis, (hands on top and bottom) I can get them to wiggle a little bit. Not a whole scary lot, but juuuuust enough to get them to click. Is this a symptom of having old worn out struts, or something I should be more concerned about, like bad ball joints? I also get a LOT of side to side movement on my DS wheel, when I do the same thing along the vertical axis. I can see the tie rod move with the wheel though so my guess is that I need to replace the tie rods. This is most likely why my alignment is such a problem. I think however, after seeing the prices on RockAuto I'm just going to replace the whole rack with the 15:1, tie rods', and do the 11" brake upgrade all at once and get that all taken care of before I do this. I've been driving with that alignment problem for three years and my wheel hasn't fallen off yet so I think I'll be ok.
And final thing is that when going over large transitions in the road, you know the kind that move the whole car up and down over them, kinda like RR crossings, when the car goes up, my front end goes CLUNK almost everytime. However if I try to duplicate it in the driveway by bouncing the front of the car up and down I get nothing. And I achieve far more movement than I would while driving. My guess is that its because I have what I believe to be ORIGINAL struts on the front so basically they're doing nothing and if figured it was the strutshiznitting their stops. But why can't I duplicate in when sitting still? Oh and no, it's not my engine clunking back down cause of mounts. The mounts are new and I checked to see if they were broken.
Thanks for reading my book and thanks in advance for answers. I'm still learning about suspensions.
I replaced the temp sending unit yesterday, the one for the dash with the single wire, not the sensor for the ECU.
When I went to the parts store they were having trouble coming up with the part, everything was coming up as N/A. That is until he looked it up as "with EATC". Then it popped right up. Which is odd because from what I have come to understand the fact that my car has the regular dash and does not have EATC means that I should have the single wire plug, which only showed up for a car that would in their catalog.
Anyway, the problem is that from the very first moment I turn on the key, the guage starts climbing until it pegs and stays there forever. I don't know if I got the wrong unit and its sending bad signals, or if I just got a faulty one or what....
The part number on the Duralast replacement I got was TU25 and another number saying 2035. Anyone know wtf is going on?
ok, so fiddling around yesterday I was checking things out under the hood. I noticed this vac line that I have been keeping an eye on for a while now. I was pretty sure it was cracked or broken but all the visible areas didn't show it. anyway, I pulled it out and checked it out and well yes of corse it had a giant freakin hole in it. So I replaced it and honestly it really didn't seem to do anything. (other than of course making my idle a smoother since now I'm getting full vacuum)
The line in question is the one that comes from the PCV and T's out to a sensor, then down to the charcoal filter. Now what I mean when I say it didn't seem to do anything is that once hooked up to the charcoal filter, if I pull the other hose off, there is no vacuum at that inlet. But, I know there is not a leak in my filter because once I hook the first hose up to it, the erratic idle does go away. So I guess what I'm saying is, is my charcoal filter clogged or something, or is that the normal method of operation?
And while we're at it, wtf does that sensor do anyway? the one that is inline with the first mentioned hose, that T's off of the PCV line. I play around with it, unplugged the harness, doesn't change anything. Is it faulty or is it similar to the operation of the EGR valve?
I'm considering deleting the trunk lock and I was wondering if anyone here who drives their car at least on a semi regular basis has done it. I would love to just take my trunk key off the ring for a while to see how it feels but I don't actually drive the car so it wouldn't help me.
My 96 did not have a trunk key for a long time but that wasn't so bad b/c the popper button was in the console, not the glovebox, so it was a lot easier to just reach in from EITHER side of the car, and pop the trunk open. With this car it makes me wonder if I would get tired of having to always walk around to the PS and open the glovebox to get at the button.
Does anyone have any opinions on this? (not the aesthetic aspect please lol)
Bondo is the only thing that comes to mind, but I have never worked with it before, and I have no idea how well it does with plastic.
I need to fill the crack around the cup-holder I installed in place of the ashtray, and the gap where it goes under the shifter trim plate. I really don't know what to use.
I need something that I can shape and sand rather easily but will still maintain a strong bond with the plastic of the console.
and whoever decided it was a good idea to use them was an even bigger idiot. Way to go Ford.
What you see here is one of the bolts that holds the rear seat and seatbelt to the floor. What you also see is a TORX driver that has been put under so much force to attempt to remove that bolt that it has warped out of shape. And you also see a TORX bolt that has had so much pressure put on it that the driver has slipped out multiple times, and sheared the grooves of the inside of the head.
That being said, does anyone know what level of hell I need to get through in order to get this now round headed bolt out, that out that I couldn't get out with an 18" breaker bar?
Oh, and yes, I've used three different types of penetrating oil, and I've tried a propane torch too.
