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Topics - nbzimmer

4
Audio & Other Aftermarket Electronics / re-installing factory radio without original connectors
For some reason, the CD player I installed about 13 years ago won't turn on.  I haven't looked into it much yet but I am thinking about putting the factory radio back in anyway.  I mean, everything else in my car is stock, so the radio may as well be, too.  Plus, I don't listen to CD's anymore.  Everything I listen to is either on the radio or on the iPod.

So I am thinking about dropping one of these in so I can use the iPod: http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-FM-MOD02-Universal-Modulator-Satellite/dp/B001QBG614/.  I'm sure lots of you guys know about these already, but I had never heard of it before.  It is similar to a py FM transmitter, but it plugs in line with the antenna cable, which SUPPOSEDLY improves the performance.

What I like about it is I can easily keep using my factory equilizer and factory amp.  I'm not expecting miracles from it, but hopefully it will perform well enough to keep pace with a 26-year-old factory audio system.

Just curious if anybody else has any experience with a wired FM Modulator.  Thanks.
5
Electrical Tech / Is a NOS OEM moonroof motor a smart buy or are there better aftermarket options?
My moonroof opens and closes very slowly, and most of the time it needs a little pushing or pulling to get it where it needs to go.  I have not made any attempt to fix it yet, but this is a motor issue, right?

It looks like I can get a NOS OEM motor for about $78 shipped.  Is this the way to go, or is this obsolete technology?  I am just wondering if anyone knows if there are aftermarket motors out there that might have improved design or function.  Since 1987, a lot of technology has changed, but then again quite a bit has stayed the same.  Just wondering which category this motor belongs in.

Thanks!
6
Engine Tech / What fuel pump should I buy?
I tried to read up on this from old threads so I don't waste too much of people's time.  Looks like there is some consensus that Walbro is the way to go.  But it also sounds like multiple brands might sell Walbro pumps.

I'm looking at a couple options over on Rock Auto:

Bosch.  I read in a thread that Bosch pumps are actually Walbro pumps.  True?  $52.

Carter.  This one says it is a Walbro.  Also includes sock.  $57.

The other thing is the Carter says it is an OE pump while the Bosch says it is an OE upgrade.  Does this mean anything?

There is also an Airtex wholesaler closeout for $34, but I read a couple negative posts on here about that brand.

Feedback is much appreciated.
7
Engine Tech / Fuel Pump Replacement on my Cougar
Took the Cougar out tonight for the first time in a few months.  After cruising the countryside for 20 minutes or so I came back into town and stopped at Wal-Mart on my way back home.  When I came out the car wouldn't start.  It tried to a few times, but once it caught I had to work the gas pedal like crazy to keep it going.  I did get it going once long enough to go a few more blocks, but it died at a stop sign.  Eventually, I ran the battery down and I had to push the car off the road and hoof it 2 miles back to my house.  Good thing I need the exercise.

My guess is I have  in my fuel.  The car has been sitting a lot, and it only has 3 gallons in the tank.  It has probably been 9 months or more since I filled up.  So I'm thinking a fuel filter to get it home and then maybe a tank flush or replacement after that? (and then start driving the darn thing more!)

Any other ideas or things to check?  Hopefully tomorrow I can at least get it going long enough to get it back home.
8
Misc Tech / shop manual question
So I just picked up some Ford shop manuals for my car on Ebay.  I got:

powertrain/lubrication/maintenance manual
body manual
chassis/electrical manual
supplemental update

$40 total including shipping.  Assuming they are complete and readable, that seemed pretty decent to me considering what some others are asking.

Anyway, I see there are some other books out there, like:

electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual
rear wheel drive specification book
car & truck engine/emission facts book summary
powertrain control/emissions diagnosis service manual
etc. 

Does anyone know more about these?  Would any of the other books be worth picking up?
9
Misc Tech / multiple cranks required to start
So I have a few questions about some little things with my car.  Nothing big, but if anyone who knows more than I do has input, fire away.

First up: Starting.  It used to be that the car would fire up after only a second or two of cranking the starter.  I mean always.  It started so easy.

But then the car sat for 3 years and was only started a couple times a year.  Now when the car is cold I almost always have to crank 3 separate times before it takes off.  After it warms up it will sometimes start with one crank but usually it takes 2.  The weird thing is it seems to have more to do with the number of times I crank than it does with the length of time.  Maybe I am crazy but it seems to start better with 3 short periods of cranking than it does with 1 long one.

Anything I might be able to do to get the thing to start a little easier?
11
Lounge / my rant for the day
So first off I admit that I am not all that familiar with car dealership service centers.  My cars have always been older and when I have had to take them in to get something checked out I usually go to a reputable independent shop.  So maybe I am just behind the times. 

But today I took in our ’09 Taurus because the transmission is making a kind of buzzing noise intermittently when it upshifts in the higher gears.  It’s got 45,000 miles on it so it’s still covered by the powertrain warranty.  So I assume I have nothing to lose by getting it looked at.  After they check it out they tell me that there is a TSB for this.  They tell me the problem is that the transmission cooler lines are vibrating against the body of the car and the fix is to put in new lines that are supposedly designed better or something.  $285.  And of course since the cooler lines are not a moving part of the transmission, the powertrain warranty won’t cover it.  My first thoughts are (1) this is a cosmetic issue so I might not have to fix it at all and (2) if I do decide to have something done I may as well get a comparison quote or two (or try to figure it out myself) since the warranty won’t cover it anyway.  They say sure, then that will be $85 for the diagnostic work. 

This is where I start to see a little red.  $85 just to get my keys back?  I tell them they never told me they would charge just to take a look.  Plus until that very moment I was basically 100% sure that this was going to be a powertrain warranty issue.  They act like I am crazy for assuming they wouldn’t charge me to check it out.  They tell me a 1 hour charge for labor is a standard minimum diagnostic charge (even though I had the car in one other time a few weeks ago when it was still under the 3 month bumper-to-bumper warranty from the used car dealership and there wasn’t an up-front diagnostic charge then).  Maybe I am crazy, but every single place I have ever taken a car before has looked at it, told me what they think I need to do, and THEN let me decide if I want to go ahead and get on the clock for a charge.

So I stand my ground and we argue for like 10 minutes.  I hate doing that but I hate getting f***** over even more.  So eventually the guy tells me he will give me my keys back but if I walk away I should go somewhere else if I ever need any work done in the future.  I don’t think he believed I would take him up on that offer.  I realize everybody has to make a living, and there are probably people on this board who do it at car dealerships.  I have no problem with that.  But if you ask me this was a shakedown.  I don’t even know what diagnostics they would have needed in this case!  They probably punched in my VIN, the TSB popped up, they saw it was exactly what I was describing, and that was it.  So again, maybe I was in the wrong and this is just how it is now, but even if that is so I still think it’s a bunch of BS.  Sorry for the long rant.
13
Lounge / What do you think of this pickup?
So I have the itch to get a pickup.  I've never had one and, even though I probably don't really need one, it would come in handy for odd jobs and whatnot.  But since it's basically just a beat-around vehicle for me, I don't want to spend much money.

Recently I came across this: http://www.nextechclassifieds.com/listings/view/261647/.

The guy told me he's owned it since 1996 and the only major work he's done was a new clutch about 6 years ago.  Obviously it's not all much of a looker with the rust but the mileage isn't too bad and I think the 5-speed would be a lot of fun.

I'm scheduled to look at it Friday.  They guy told me he's had several other calls but he's giving me first crack because I was the first to contact him (obviously he could be making that up but I am taking his word for it).  Since he's got people waiting in the wings I doubt he'll break much on the price.

So what do you think?  If it seems to run decent is this thing worth $1700?
14
Electrical Tech / Lemme start over . . . .
Here is the story:

My Cougar sat for three years while we lived in Chicago (we had an apartment and I couldn't bear the thought of street parking it in the city, to say nothing of the traffic and the salty Chicago winter streets).  Now that we are back on the plains I am trying to get it whipped back into shape.  But there is a problem with the charging system. 

I have a new Motorcraft battery (replaced under warranty) a new remanufactured O'Reilly alternator with an internal regulator (replaced under warranty), a new serpentine belt, a new solenoid, and a new alternator connector plug. 

I have no problem starting the car (as long as I keep the battery charged).  But the dashboard voltmeter guage is reading low and the warning chime is on.  I have had the system tested at two different places, and both said the alternator wasn't producing any output.  But I took it out and had it bench tested this morning, and everything checked out fine.

So my conclusion is that the alternator is working fine, but it is not making contact with the battery. 

We just moved to a new town and I and haven't yet found a regular mechanic, but I took it to one guy today who said it was probably a fusable link.  If so, how do you test for that?  I have a test light and a battery-powered continuity tester, and I just picked up a multimeter today (those things are not as expensive as I thought they were).

I was also thinking about replacing the connector plug for the internal regulator (since I've already replaced the connector plug for the alternator). 

And someone also suggested replacing the negative battery cable.  But if there was a problem with that cable I would have a hard time starting the car, wouldn't I?

Anyway, any other suggestions, or any tips on how to test the fusible links, is much appreciated.  The troubleshooting was fun for awhile (after that cramped apartment, having my own driveway and a garage is a little slice of heaven) but it is starting to get old.  Time to get this fixed so I can get out on the highway and open the sunroof, you know?
15
Electrical Tech / 1987 Charging Problem
I have a 1987 Cougar 5.0 with an electrical/charging problem.  There are three symptoms that I assume are related: A repeatedly dead battery, a low voltmeter (I have the digital gauge and the reading is one bar below normal, within the acceptable range but low enough to trigger the warning chime), and a VERY slow turn signal.  I am talking like 2+ seconds per blink.

I changed the battery but that didn't help.  Then I took it to O'Reilly (where I bought the alternator several years ago) and had them test the alternator.  They said it was reading low (about 13) so they would replace it under warranty.  But the remanufactured one they gave me didn't get rid of the low voltmeter reading or the slow blinker.

So is my next step to change the wiring connectors to the alternator, or is there something else I should try first?

Thanks in advance for any input!

Nathan