is there any modification i need to make to put the twin piston 99+ mustang calipers on the 94/95 spindles i have on currently?
i just can see this as being a direct swap..
You will need to do a little grinding on the spindle ears to get things to mate up properly, but it is a bolt-on deal. Once you have the pieces in front of you, it will make sense. The ears on the 94-95 are a little more rough and chunky than the later ones. Other than that, it's a no-brainer. I ran some of those on my 84 XR-7 and the 80 Z7.
ok sweet..
i grabbed them out of the junkyard a few months back but been hesitant on mounting them, since is salt season the car is sitting.
maybe ill attempt the vacuum booster swap too!
thanks
i have a feeling this was covered before but couldn't find the result when searching "twin piston caliper"
another note.
would installing 99 up spindles be better?
the car is lowered an inch and i notice the tie rods are angled up a bit when on the ground.... but no bump steer
No. 96-04 spindles would actually be worse. Unless you're swapping a 4.6 K-member, or deciding to spend the money for a bump-steer kit from one of the aftermarket suppliers, there is no need or gain in the 96-04 spindles on a Fox car.
Stay with the 94-95 spindles.
its been a little over a year and finally today i went to install my twin piston calipers.
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a71/BJL88TC/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_125420_516_zps400e7eb6.jpg) (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/BJL88TC/media/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_125420_516_zps400e7eb6.jpg.html)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a71/BJL88TC/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_125427_743_zps27e69762.jpg) (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/BJL88TC/media/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_125427_743_zps27e69762.jpg.html)
like chuck said once i looked it over i would see where i had to grind. wasnt a lot to remove and it went very well to install.
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a71/BJL88TC/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_125633_345_zpsb8fb62e4.jpg) (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/BJL88TC/media/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_125633_345_zpsb8fb62e4.jpg.html)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a71/BJL88TC/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_125942_583_zps5e173fe7.jpg) (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/BJL88TC/media/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_125942_583_zps5e173fe7.jpg.html)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a71/BJL88TC/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_130222_999_zps25f4b128.jpg) (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/BJL88TC/media/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_130222_999_zps25f4b128.jpg.html)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a71/BJL88TC/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_130231_532_zps3b4b63e0.jpg) (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/BJL88TC/media/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_130231_532_zps3b4b63e0.jpg.html)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a71/BJL88TC/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_132631_360_zps69646ec5.jpg) (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/BJL88TC/media/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_132631_360_zps69646ec5.jpg.html)
(http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a71/BJL88TC/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_132658_523_zpsa6e2ab13.jpg) (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/BJL88TC/media/Turbo%20Stuff/Turbo%20II%20Twin%20Piston%20caliper%20install/IMG_20130420_132658_523_zpsa6e2ab13.jpg.html)
even tho the installation went very well and simple.
i had other issues. leaving the calipers in a box in a shed that was subjected to moisture the pistons and calipers corroded and seized once i apply pedal pressure.. so im going to rebuild them.
only one piston "popped" out when i went to disassemble them. going to talk to my ole wise father and see if soaking them in brake fliud would help to get them apart.
at this point i may just wait and buy cobra calipers and rotors and go 13in. we will see... ill post again once i see if i can get the calipers apart
so i just reinstalled my single piston ones and was back on the road...
Are remanned '99+ calipers out of the budget? I know they aren't "too" cheap, but if for nothing else than peace of mind, I'd rather spend the money than trust salvage yard pieces, Brian. ;)
I bought a set of 03 Mach 1 Spindles for dirt cheap because the car was totaled, and they only have 12k miles on them. I will be doing this same kind of swap, are the Mach 1 spindles gonna give me any trouble or is it just the bump steer kit that I will be spending extra money on?
BJL,
You can get the calipers only (no bracket but you already have that) for about $40 each at any parts store but you will need your green gremlins for the core charge. I would not even try to rebuild these as I just don't do cheap on brakes and I don't trust me and a brake hone.
cougrrr302,
Do not use the 96+ spindles on a stock K-member car. Read here: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=tech_front_susp_spindle_warning
Darren
i got my wedding in 6months and that taking alot of my $$$. to be honest. i can get cobra calipers and brackets for what walk in price you can buy the 99+ gt/v6. but thats $$$ i dont have. i had them in the shed and gave em a shot, we got the them loose, the outer boots were ripped and they got corroded there, we reassembled them and seem to hold. ill reinstall in a few weeks. the calipers i had on the car before 5 lug i rebuilt myself. we used to rebuild wheel cylinders but the china made ones are cheaper and easier.
i dont care for the green but the car has green accents on it already so i didnt bother to bead blast them. i prefer gray for calipers, well see how i feel when i reinstall them.
Congrats on the wedding! Very understandable on the $$$ and let us know how the PBR's work out once you install them. I did this on my Coupe years back and they were a huge improvement over the stock 94-98 front calipers. You will need to install a manual proportioning valve and gut the factory on in the combination valve as the balance on the car will be all out of whack with the additional stopping power up front. Try it without it first as you may be okay with it but I was not.
Darren
I wonder how much difference in pedal feel one would have with the only change being FROM '94-98 calipers TO the PBR '99 units...
If a person already has the SN95 master cylinder and booster installed I can say from my own experience that the pedal feel is no different what so ever as it took the same amount of brake pedal effort. Now the braking bias will be out of whack but that's another story.
Jack Hidley with Maximum Motorsports is a guru on this subject. He posts pretty regularly on several sites, here is one of his posts on the Corral that is a good read:
http://forums.corral.net/forums/road-racing-auto-x/1395390-4-lug-brake-upgrade-worth.html
Darren
Darren thanks for the info.
i actually vacuum bleed the brakes re-installing the single piston calipers and the pedal hasn't been this nice in a few years.
where is a vendor i can get a quality manual proportioning valve.
i have a sn95 master and proportioning valve i can guy or just gut the TC one. im tired of Teves it pulls to much current on the system. plus new parts are pricey for this teves.
would the braided SS hoses help with pedal feel and stopping ability or is it overrated?
You can get the Wilwood proportioning valve jsut about anywhere:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=687
Just gut the TC unit and install the FRPP plug. Maximum also has the plug and the installation instructions are at the bottom of the page:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1411
The braided hoses are nice and in all honesty I doubt you would feel a pedal difference just tooling around town but in repeated hard stops they are much safer and do not swell like the rubber lines. These are for the fronts so you don't need the adapters on the hard lines:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=49_144_469&products_id=1341
This is what a person should get for the rears if they have not already converted the car:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=49_144_469&products_id=1438
I will say a person can do it cheaper but this is bolt on stuff for the average guy who does not want to flare lines. The prices on MM site are list but if you go through a dealer like http://www.chicane23.com they should be cheaper. Basically that was a shameless plug for my buddy John George's business ;)
Darren
So im resurrecting this post.
about a year later i bought reman calipers and brackets. those have been working flawlessly since.
in late 2018 i replaced the Ole Teves brake booster with 93 Cobra Booster and Master cylinder.
this months project is now upgrading to 13in rotors calipers.
also order ford racing M2300M kit for rear axle brackets and rotors to upgrade the rear also.
just waiting on rear bracket kit and stainless hoses for the front. ill make another post about all that.
I have the dual piston caliper on my '87 Stang with the stock (for now) booster...still have drums out back. It whoas down ok for me.
If you are going to convert the entire brake package over to the Cobra specs this has been hashed out a couple of times on here.
You already have the 94-95 spindles mounted so the front is a unbolt and bolt up as far as the rotor and caliper go. The soft lines are a different story. I am aware of the 99-04 calipers having two different thread pitches and the Cobra calipers also have two different thread pitches. Most refer to this as fine or coarse thread. Make sure you know which ones you have as it sucks not having the right parts when doing a project.
Rear calipers on the SN95 cars (94-04) are identical. The difference between the GT/V6 cars and the Cobras is the caliper mounting bracket. If you have the calipers off of a GT/V6 you can buy the caliper brackets or at least you used to be able to from Autozone and the like. Other than the obvious rotor diameter difference you will need the axle bracket that bolts to the axle as it’s different for the Cobra brakes. This is what the caliper bracket bolts to.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/Car%20Stuff/.highres/21_caliper_brackets.jpg)
The M2300M kit does not have the Cobra caliper brackets so you will have to source those either on existing calipers taken off a Cobra or else where if you already have the SN95 rear calipers with the GT/V6 brackets.
Being you are going to the added expense of the larger Cobra setup you should run SS braided lines as they will make a difference in line pressure getting to the caliper as they will not swell like the rubber lines.
You should also gut the factory combination valve and install a manual brake bias adjuster. Here is what you have to do on the combination valve:
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/Car%20Stuff/.highres/BrakeProportioningValveDiagram.jpg)
I have a full set of Hawk HPS pads with about 2500 miles on them and a brand new set of Hawk HPS Plus pads that I would sell. These are fairly aggressive pads and the HPS will dust slightly and the Plus will dust. These are for more “spirited” driving that requires some serious slow down and quick.
If you want a really good street pad I would recommend the StopTech street pads or the EBC Ultimax2 pads. They will not have the stopping power of the Hawks but they are 10x better than the parts store garbage.
Some threads on this subject:
https://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/index.php?topic=32920
https://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/index.php?topic=36678.0
https://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/index.php?topic=35660
wow that's a lot of info!
i have the brackets coming as well. luckily a guy on amazon has posted about his conversion and linked the brackets in the review of the m2300m kit.
i look into the combo valve.
also have all the stainless lines coming from CJ.
changing brake line nuts isnt a big deal. but i think i had to do it when i put on the mustang brakes hoses when i first converted. but again not worried. car isnt moving... still need to do the heater core.
thanks for info!
Heater Core Replacement:
https://www.coolcats.net/repairing/heatercore.html
I would suggest that you get the Motorcraft heater core but they are no longer in production so you may be stuck with an aluminum aftermarket unit. Ford P/N on the heater core is E9LY-18476-A and the Motorcraft P/N is HC-5.
Found this video out on YouTube but did not watch all of it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IO-96rk_m2c
I did my 88 a few years ago. Just follow the instructions on coolcats and take your time. I was able to get the motorcraft on rockauto, but they are long gone now.
Just an FYI, it appears the heater core for an 80-88 Bird/Cougar is the same heater core as the one for an 79-93 Mustang and the 84-92 Lincoln Mark VII. I double checked this at the parts store and the same part number shows for all of them.
When I changed out the heater core on my 88 many years ago, I got an original Motorcraft part AND I took it to a radiator shop and had it pressure tested before installing it. Cost maybe $10, money well spent I thought considering the time required to install it.