1989 5.0 H/o in a 88 Tbird automatic ! Spark jumping ISSUE !
Well to start with please keep in mind I did not do the install of this MOTOR into my car !
I bought the car and had to complete the work ! Used cool cats site to complete it !
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1989 Mustang 5.0 H/o
The rest of the conversion has been completed by me !Per Hot rod Mag conversion sheet
A9p performance ECM
Maf Pigtail
5.0 air tube and maf combo tube
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Now this car had sat for more than 5 years
why because they could not get it started ?
Turned out the IGN switch had separated so I replaced it and after replacing the fuel pump it started right up !
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There are no codes so my issue is with
The minute we went to set the timing Bam I got the shock of electric of my life !
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So Later that night in the dark
I fired up the engine
The light show started at the first 3 plugs on each bank !
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So today I added a ground strap to the engine
And still I have arcing ?
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I touched the side of the COIL
And Bam I got the shock again !
And yes it kinda hurt !
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So I have New
Dist cap
Wire's
Engine control module
pickup coil
Rotor
Etc:
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Iam At A lost
I did not hook up this motor so Iam behind the 8 ball on this !
Anyone got an Idea ?
Thanks ahead of time !
Stock ignition ?
AFAIK there are no difference in stock ignition components between SO & HO...
Simplifying process, basically voltage builds in coil till the spark plug fires, which grounds the voltage at approx 8-10Kv... Sooo assuming good spark plugs & wires, voltage should never build to the point it's jumping from the wires... A slight amount of corona is often visible in the dark, not really a big issue...
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Getting shocked when setting timing !
Corona around 6 plugs !
Shocked when touching the coil on its side !
Too much resistance in the high voltage circuit will cause the voltage to be too high.
For instance, the wider the spark plug gap, the higher the voltage will go to get a spark to jump the gap.
The spark jumping the gap will ionize the air in the gap causing the resistance to drop and the voltage to drop.
Any other "gaps" in the secondary coil circuit will add to the resistance and to the voltage required to get the current flowing.
1. The high voltage wire from the coil to the distributor not seated all the way on one or both ends leaving a "gap".
2. The spring contact on top of the rotor not high enough to touch the coil wire terminal button in the top of the cap.
3. The rotor tip too far from the plug wire terminals.
4. The plug wires not seated on the cap and or the plugs.
5. Too much plug gap.
Remove the wires from the coil. Check the resistance between the negative (tach) primary coil terminal to the high voltage terminal for 8K to 11.5K ohms.
Check the resistance of the high voltage coil to distributor wire for a maximum of 5K ohms per inch.
With the #1 cylinder at TDC of compression stroke, check that the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug terminal in the cap.
Got it running much better !
coil wire was arcing
Plug wires # 1-4-7 were not firing -[Replaced them !
Runs much better now !
still not perfect but it will be !
Yea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Do this ALL OF IT and report back: http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html
Run a KOEO, KOER, and cylinder balance test. You should get at least a code 11 (all pass) for the KOEO and KOER test not "no codes" and a 9 on the cylinder balance test to rule out any EEC-IV or electrical issues.
^^^ Definitely do this!!! Just to be sure everything checks out. The computer can tell you a lot about what's going on.
I will add, careful setting timing, with what type of interrupt hookup you use at the distributor cap-end of the plug wires. I have an older timing light that uses some crude pieces that leave metal terminal ends out in the open. I've bumped into them while rotating the dizzy and yes, does it hurt. That's some energy right there! :)
In you first post was stated new wires, weren't really new were they???
Oops,I replied to the other thread.
Use the ford racing wires, your problem will be solved.
Is your car's front "bumper" made of plywood?
:sawzall: Nuthin wrong with plywood for body parts as long as you use it with the slick or "finished" side out. If u dont, it sorta tears up your paint roller.
LOL, I'm putting that on my Rolodex of good ideas(no I don't own a smart fone)..
I still have my Rolodex. My "smart" phone flips open, says Samsung, has big numbers, rings loud. I'm a decade or two past my smart days.