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Messages - TheFoeYouKnow

1921
Body/Appearance/Interior / Once again, door windows/tracks/clips
Looks like I may have my foot in my mouth, I've just noticed that the tabs I glue on with Black RTV are made from steel, while these are made from plastic.  I don't know if that makes the difference, but if it does, I'll eat my crow.
1922
Body/Appearance/Interior / Once again, door windows/tracks/clips
Looks like silicone on top of silicone.  Always fails when you don't have good cleanup.  I'm not telling you what to do in your shop, Tom, what I'm saying is what we do in mine and how well it works for us.  But this looks like something that was BOUND to fail. Clear silicone, probably the original 25 year old stuff, with black RTV around it. By the look of it, I can't be sure if it was pulled loose of the clear stuff or the black stuff. it it was the black stuff, the tabs were probably in the wrong place.  But she's your baby, you take care of it whichever way works best for you.
1923
Body/Appearance/Interior / Once again, door windows/tracks/clips
They're not setscrews, it's a bolt, a single bolt that passes below the window into the opposing plate and draws clamping force upon the window and there is one under the front of the glass and under the back of the glass.  It works in the F-trucks and other vehicles which have no permanently attached tabs.  They're also used starting on 2011 on Edge and Explorer, however, when over-torqued they crack the layered-glass window.  And as for your mirror comment, now you're just being silly and useless to the purpose of the thread.  A mirror mount doesn't require a flexible bond, and a mirror mount hangs against gravity, a power window does not.  Don't forget the purpose of the thread, a guy asked for help.  Getting sarcastic with me helps nobody.

1924
Body/Appearance/Interior / cupholders??
This pic is with a center console and it seems to now be behind the trim panel, but in the first pic you seem to not have a console and to have fitted it through the trim differently.
1925
Body/Appearance/Interior / Once again, door windows/tracks/clips
Different RTV formulations have different colors, everybody knows this.  Blue RTV is primarily for sealing liquid in metal, Orange RTV has a high temperature tolerance and is only useful in exhaust (some guys do this, I prefer a good gasket), clear RTV is used to seal liquids against plastic, grey RTV is used in high pressure seals between metal especially aluminum, and black RTV is most useful sealing petroleum products against metals AND plastics.  RTV is certainly NOT all the same, there are differences in hardness, chemical resistance, thermal tolerance, bond strength, set time, flexibility, etc.  Your 3M product doesn't work for you, because it's made for sealing windshields and other fixed position glass such as quarter glass; our body shop uses tons of it for that purpose and to great effect.  Most people who claim that nothing works aren't either cleaning the parts properly, aren't setting the tabs in the right place (you have to be careful because once you clean the glass your reference points may be gone), or aren't allowing a full 48 to 72 hours for the bond to fully cure before removing pressure from it, and inflexible bonds fail the fastest whether properly bonded or not.  I wish there were a good way to retrofit the clamps used in F-150's since 04, they clamp on the same way, but using a bolt to squeeze the glass between two steel plates and rubber gaskets using a cantilever method, instead of a flexible adhesive, I've never seen one let go, I've only seen the ones they use in the 11 and newer edge/explorer crack the glass (which is a laminate 'sound screen' glass like your windshield, it has layers).  Still, these would be better for us, that way we wouldn't have to bicker about adhesives.
1926
Body/Appearance/Interior / cupholders??
I totally love the Taurus cup holders.  Was moving the Climate Control to the top difficult?  I have EATC, and there's a duct that runs behind there, so I (having seen yours) trimmed my EATC module to fit under the duct, but the whole thing is really tight and the module sits a bit low in the hole with no room to move it up a little.  Regardless, I'm doing the same mod and I'll make the best of it.  Just one more question, are you using any radio mounting brackets to hold the cup holder in there or something else.  I'd love to have a pic of it with the front trim off.
1927
Body/Appearance/Interior / Once again, door windows/tracks/clips
I've been using black RTV for 13 years, it always works.  Don't ask me why, when I first started when I was 19, the older guys in the shop told me to use it, and I've never had a repeat repair, except the one time I used grey rtv, and the time I tried bumper epoxy.  (Both on my 87 T-Bird, but I didn't know any better at the time) Any time I did it the old timers' way, I never saw the car again for the same repair.  As to the reason they originally come off in the first place, our cars are all at least 25 years old.  That's a lot of cycles, and depending where you live, thermal cycling is even worse (think 0 degrees to whatever the door warms up to once the car's heat has been running). Speaking of cold weather, anybody ever get their window frozen shut? There's a reasonably finite number of times an adhesive bond can withstand that, and the reason a silicone adhesive was used by Ford and ,to the best of my knowledge, it's technicians is that it's an engineered weak point to prevent damage to other components (think fuse link).  Who wants their window to break?, or the fastening points in the door to tear out?, because I've seen them all, and I'd rather have the tabs come off the window.  It's easier to fix.  Of course, most of the newer stuff now uses nylon connectors and hardware, or the weak point is engineered into the regulator in the form of a nylon pulley wheel, etc.  But you guys with custom fixes are painting yourselves into a corner.  Fixing it to death.  I'm not trying to get in a g match, but I know how to fix it, and I know why it's best fixed that way.

As for the actuator bushing, spend 2.25 on a new bushing and a pop rivet, it's faster than making one or harvesting one.  Just sayin.
1929
Body/Appearance/Interior / Once again, door windows/tracks/clips
Did anybody else notice that his window regulator is twisted like a pretzel?  For crying out loud, in one pic it's mounting bar is beyond the window track!  The regulator should be flat, as if once removed from the door, it would lay flat on the ground.  He's binding because his regulator is bent up.  You can make all the custom fixes you want, but in the end, he still needs a window regulator and BLACK RTV.  This is what I do for a living, Electrical and trim.  At the Dealer.  I am a specialist, and I know a borked regulator when I see one.  These pictures say more to me about the problem than he ever could.  The regulator cannot POSSIBLY move the window through its proper range of motion in this condition.  Pull the regulator.  And replace the missing bushing for the power lock actuator.
1930
Body/Appearance/Interior / Once again, door windows/tracks/clips
Make sure it's not the window pulling away from the track, or the track hanging unsecured.  Also, if you DID use an epoxy, and it didn't yield while your tabs were out of their correct position, I would guess that it would find other ways to pull itself apart.  Remember that the original mounting had enough give to it to allow the tabs to flex and stretch a little.  J B Weld is, like any other epoxy, hard and solid.  If you reach a point in the windows movement where it is intended for the tabs to flex, and they are unable, you'll definitely get some bind at that point.  Seriously, brake cleaner and BLACK RTV.  Don't forget to spray your window runs with silicone spray lube, also.
1931
Engine Tech / Fighting a high idle...HO swap related
I had a high idle after swapping my HO for a GT40, and I tracked it down to a too small EGR plate gasket allowing EGR to flow into the intake unchecked.  After that I still had a slightly high idle, and it was running really rich.  I traced that to a bad HEGO on the right bank. swapped them both out, now I'm golden.  You should borrow a 60-pin breakout box and check what your o2's are reading.
1932
Body/Appearance/Interior / Once again, door windows/tracks/clips
Ford fastened their windows to their regulators like this for a long time, I fix a couple of these a month during the summer. The trick is to get the tabs attached to the window in the right spot, or the regulator arm will tear them off sideways.  Also, you need something that will still be just a little flexible, and J B Weld is too hard.  In dealer we spray everything down in brake cleaner after its "clean" and fix the tabs back to the window with black RTV.  That's right Black RTV.  Blue is too soft, grey is too hard, and nobody should use orange for anything but exhaust, as it's resistant to heat, but nothing else.  BLACK RTV, fill the tab with it, press it on, put the window in and roll the window up. leave it up for 2 to 3 days and you're good;  assuming you've put the tabs in the right spots.
1933
Engine Tech / Need engine project advice.
Lets see, the engine showed up Thursday, I stripped it to the long block and pulled the cam, Friday I pulled out my HO and stripped it down to the long block and pulled it's cam (which was wiped at the journals). Lucky for me I know a guy that had a 90 HO cam and who just gave it to me, Saturday I worked the whole day, about 8 hours,  to install the cam and assemble the motor and get it in the car, and I spent 4 or 5 hours Monday relocating the ACT to the airbox and trouble shooting no oil pressure (pump shaft had fallen out while I was building it up, which was a careless mistake) and rough running, which happened to be a too small EGR plate gasket not sealing EGR out of the engine.  I won my first street light drag with it last night against a turbo eclipse, so I'm pretty happy.  Next: Exhaust, heads to bumper.  This stock exhaust business is killing me, well not completely stock, but all stock parts as I have a Mark VII H-pipe.  Also, I think I'm going to mod the Explorer TB to run in place of the HO one.  By comparison it's huge.
1934
Engine Tech / Need engine project advice.
It helps to work in a Ford shop, with other Ford techs, who have nothing better to do than help, and also to have a parts account. I'm pretty fortunate that way.  Now I've got the same high idle problem as the guy in that other thread.