I know they're out there, but do I really need them. I'm lowered on SN-95 springs, and I've got something like 2 degrees negative camber. As you can imagine, on grooved roads, the car can be entertaining to drive with 245/45ZR17's. Has anybody got experience with the factory plates? How much correction have you managed to get from adjusting them?
I'm not your dealership guy on the board any longer. I just wrapped up my first week at a new job for an independent, and boy have I got some catching up to do! Still, I think I got lucky with this job, my very first job (first day) was the bosses 06 Mercury Milan (V6) on which I ended up doing an engine pull to replace the rear main, front seal and to remove and reseal the bed plate. No pressure! At least it was a Ford, which made me a little more comfortable, even though everything after pretty much wasn't. No matter which way you look at it, it's a paradigm shift from doing Electrical and AC at a Ford dealer.
So, our parts manager was cleaning out the s bin, and brought me a bucket of '13 Police Interceptor lighting components that were bought and returned functional, but not returnable. Once they sit for a year they get tossed. He brings these out to me and I have a look through and say "sure, I'll take them". What they are, is 6 red/blue 25-pattern wig-wags with sync-up wiring and joined pattern shift (which I don't really have any use for), and 2 LED turn/park lamp inserts with a high power white for strobe control (requires a strobe controller, so comes on solid without). These are what I really want. $450 each on ebay, free for me today. The socket locks are just off of a standard 3157/1157 twist, so I adjusted the one that was off about 1/8 inch. The result:
Bright amber for turn signal, over-rides white if white is on.
Dim amber for park lamps, over-ridden by white if white is on
Bright-ass white, about 5600k (a guess) I may connect to come on with high beams.
Something to think about: The wig-wags have the same socket locks as the switchback turn signals.
So I just had to buy a bag of 4 TV bushings kits just to get 1. They were expensive, so to recover costs, I'm selling the 3 I DON'T need. They retail at $26 and some change, I'm selling them for $25 shipped to your door. The Brass TV cable bushing will never dry out and crack, then cause your TV cable to fall off the throttle body and wreck your transmission. I'm sure some of you know exactly what that's like, here's Ford's solution.
Once I can buy heads, I'll be able to get my car back on the road, but before I can get there, I've hit a snag that might seem pretty obvious. With GT40Y heads, an Explorer upper an lower, headers, a TFS stage 1 cam @-4, and 10:1 compression, I'm set up for 340 to 350 HP and by the maths, 19#/hr injectors are not going to cut it. In order to avoid buying injectors twice (I plan on better heads in a couple years) I'm shopping for 36# units. I'm aware that higher rate injectors won't play nice with my stock HO PCM calibration, so how cheap can I go with the intermediary solution, and still have higher rate injectors run nice and do their job?
Moates Quarterhorse
TwEECer
I'm pretty sure I don't have the money or time for MegaSquirt.
Or maybe something burned for me (though I don't know of anyone still doing that)?
Anybody here worked with the TwEECer, or the Moates Quarterhorse?
Also, I'm pretty committed to staying with Speed Density, for both cost AND performance. If you're planning to tell me to go MAF conversion and run a calibrated meter, you should make a really good case for it or don't bother.
One week before today, this car had (and still has) no engine, but sat clean and gleaming in the sunshine. Today...
I had to clear it off today to prevent broken springs and to prep it to be towed home for the remainder of the winter. If I had just cleared away from the tires, you wouldn't have known there was no engine, cuz she was riding low.
I'm looking for the Trick-Flow Stage 1 cam. You all know which one I mean. A new one is cheap enough, but suddenly my budget is very thin and I want to finish my short block before I put the project on hold. New ones are $200, and I'm looking to buy in the neighborhood of half that. If you're looking to sell, post up or PM; I'm always listening.
This year I've put 2 oil pressure senders on already, and I had my indicated oil pressure drop to nothing last light after a 3 to 4 second WOT sprint. I don't have any lifter noise, but I do have a faint hint of the rattle noise you'd expect from loose rods. I'm going to bring a sending unit home from work today and maybe a manual oil pressure gauge to test with. Anybody think it's something else? I had a friend with a 333 blow his lifter/cam oiling plug out (back of the valley near the rear sealing rail) but he immediately had lifter noise. I just don't want to have to tear down. My engine had 120k last year before I put it in, but I can't think of anything that would cause a sudden pressure loss without being accompanied by audible evidence of catastrophe. Thoughts?
Having trouble selling these on Craigslist, but they need to go. I got them in trade for a header panel, ran them, converted to 5 lug, and now they're stacked up in my embarrassingly small garage. I'm trying to get $100 for the set.
They're cleaned up really well but there is some of the typical corrosion, there's only a little and only around the weight rim. I've popped in new stems, so they're ready for tires. These are pick-up only, as you can imagine, the value goes away a bit once you add shipping.
