No doubt, but an international border crossing along with all the red tape involved would be the prohibiting factor for me. Shipping that car to Nova Scotia would probably double its price by the time shipping and import fees were paid...
Pay me $500 and I'll drive it to you...sneak in the country and running from the Mounties! lol Modern day Vanishing Point
Wish I would've seen this before I bought a 400ex, a ranger and another Crown vic! I need to frequent this site a little more....definitely closed off to partial trades?
275/60's are wicked tall...and you can't use any goofy formulas or tire manufacturers height specs, because they're always wrong when it comes to metric tires...brand new 225/60R15's measure 24.5" tall...you have to measure installed on the wheel, properly inflated and mounted on the car on the ground...and centrifugal force will not cause street tires to grow 1/2" or even 1/4" for the matter....BFG radial t/a's look good but don't hook worth a , been there done that....Nitto 275/50's on the other hand would hook quite nicely. Will it be ready for a trip to Atco in the spring?
I really think if you can find a 255/60R15 in whitewall, you'd be happy...it should definitely fill the wells. I still think that the WR kit will be too much gear off the line with the 3.73's out back...that SC 3.8 will be falling off in torque rapidly after 3500rpm...I've driven torquey cars that were over-geared...it's not fun because you don't get to use all your torque down low. Just my opinion...you may want to look online for some dyno charts on stock-ish SuperCoupes to see what's happening in the torque curve.
Any procedure that involves waiting 30 minutes here and there is a waste, and I'll never put an impact to a spark plug in any head...especially an aluminum head, this practice is highly frowned upon. I think the Lisle tool is the same as the Matco tool I listed the part number for previously, however, there isn't a Lisle tool guy stopping by weekly to see if you need parts of that set warrantied out...the Matco set only cost like $130 or something.
The ground electrode tube that sticks in the head will absolutely NOT come out by just running the engine...been there done that too...I've been though it all and once I stumbled upon the "get it hot" trick, I've never looked back...hopefully it saves many people as much b/s as it has me. Remember though, you can only do one side, then you have to let it run and get hot again(a good time to take your lunch break). It's not always a pleasant procedure...air temps in our shop in the summer top 120* almost daily...and laying over a 200*+ engine isn't fun.
Soaking is far too time consuming...I've NEVER had to consider pulling a head...many tool kits out there for these broken plugs don't work worth a ...the only one worth the money is the Matco # BPR65....I do 3-4 of these a month, sometimes more. Take out all the coil bolts, get the engine up to full operating temp and start pulling plugs on one side, slow and steady...an awful creaking sound as they come out is a good thing...work quickly but don't hurry when it comes to breaking the plugs loose. Replace plugs on one side, re-install coils and get the motor back up to temp then do the other side....I've tried it all...and the "soak-it" method is about worthless too.
Getting those heads good and hot is the key to success...worst case scenario only 1 or 2 MAY break with hot heads...cold motor I averaged 4-5 broken plugs. We charge 1hr per hole(on top of regular book time) to remove the broken plugs and we let them know ahead of time what may happen and potential costs. I've broken 7 out of 8 on one I did with a cold motor...the worst I've ever had on a hot motor is 2....once you get proficient with the Matco tool, removing the broken plug really only takes about 10mins. On the last one I did, the center stud of the puller(gnarly left hand thread worn out) wasn't gripping worth a and it kept pulling material out of the ground electrode sleeve that sticks in the head, I ended up using JB Qwik weld and threaded it back in, left it sit for an hour and it came out...the next day, my Matco guy warrantied it out for me, no problem.
I can promise you, you'll want shorter sidewalls...I wouldn't go any taller than a 255/60R15 and they're still tall...255/70s don't have much tread width. Do you hang out with the TsTaCC guys? Kinda wish I still lived up there so I could see this SC swapped bad boy.
Some may consider that to be a major traction problem...lol....my CV was almost undrivable when I first got it with the 3.08 open rear and 215/70R14's...a T-Lok and some 3.73's coupled with the 235/55R17's solved those problems...until I put in the 351/T5...lol. It's all relative...the way I see it...if you can't launch it like you're angry because you might spin...you have traction problems...lol.
A well worked set of cast iron heads can run just as good if not better than many street type aluminum heads...my 351w is a monster with ported GT40 irons and a mild cam with only 9.2:1 c/r...and it's not even all dialed in yet...I could only imagine what it would feel like with another point of compression!
