Again, AC car with a Mark VIII fan and DC controller.
I blew up my Gen 1 DC Control unit when I shorted the wrong pins while on the car. Just really dumb human factors design ( what you would expect from a EE, lol). Looks like his Gen 2 controllers don't have that issue
I've moved on to an AutoCoolGuy controller. Does everything DCC does without the long lead time and difficulty contacting the owner for support. I like the sensor much better than DCC's in-fin setup.
AutoCoolGuy's website and units are much clunkier looking though!
I think the OEM ECU is still the tits. From a basic ECU standpoint it still kicks the piss out of any aftermarket system. However, the physical ECUs are getting old and in shorter supply. Ford isn't making all of the connectors to be able to make a OEM-type new harness from scratch. You could still use COTS connectors and make a new harness, but that's quite a pain. I'm leaning towards going full aftermarket. I just don't want to deal with 32+ year old electronics when there are other options.
My car is heating up in Atlanta traffic. Built motor with turbo still running stock radiator with Black Magic 12" electric fan.
At first I was thinking bigger is better with radiator but recently I've heard that the 3 and 4 row radiators put more pressure on the water pumps. So should I stick with a 2 row aluminum radiator and upgrade the fan to a dual that covers the entire radiator? car runs on the open road at 193 and climbs to 204-205 before light turns green then drops back down. Climbing hills it also climbs up in temp quickly.
Suggestions on fans, radiators? Kind of being over whelmed by the selection of parts available at Summit racing. Currently plan to swap out thermostat for a 160 this weekend.
The 12" Black Tragic (in all fairness, I think they've gotten much better over the years) isn't doing you any favors. That is a tiny fan! If it was only overheating in the city (<45mph) I'd say you only need a fan. When you say temps climb when going up hill, is that <45mph or even on the interstate?
I'd probably go with a 16" single fan. Flex-a-lite, Spal, Summit, should give you a decent product. Ignore cfm (at least between brands) and look at amp draw. For a given fan diameter, amp draw (power) is what dictates cfm. Example: Flex-a-lite 16". 18.5A, 3000cfm. Spal 16", 20.8A, 1918cfm. Does the Flex-a-lite really suck 50% more with less power? No. They inflate the hell out of their flow numbers. That's not to say Flex-a-lite make a bad product, just that you need to compare apples-to-apples when shopping for a fan.
If your radiator has seen better days, I'd bet a parts store single row would do fine.
Adding rows shouldn't actually put more pressure on the water pump. They'll actually put less pressure on it. The rows are in parallel so they add total area to the flow path. The downside to adding rows to a radiator is it increases the amount of pressure needed to pull a cfm of air through the radiator core. Your radiator fan becomes less effective.
Straight vs curved blades. Curved blades are quiet, straight blades pull more air when the pressure drop is higher (3-4 row radiator, added oil/intercoolers in front of radiator).
Lowering your thermostat to stop overheating is a stop-gap measure. Once your 'stat is fully open a 160 flows as much as a 180/195 degree 'stat. It adds some head room before you overheat but on a hot day in traffic or a long hill, you'll still overheat.
Which computer harness from Ron Francis were you looking at? As far as I know he only has the ECU harnesses for turbo coupes not V8 cars. There is an ECU harness specific to the Pimp for V8 cars but I am pretty sure it is stand alone i.e. does not plug back into the dash harness.
I haven't looked into replacement harnesses much, but on paper an all-in setup for the PiMPxs is $1400. Pure plug-n-play except wiring in a WB 02 (the leads are there though). Has self-learning like the Holley.
Wasn't sure if you'd looked into it and found some drawbacks down that avenue. I'd like to go standalone eventually and get a new harness too. I don't have an issue tuning an EEC-IV, but they're getting harder and harder to source.
I'm trying to replace my A9L because no one here in Southern Nevada can tune it. They have a problem with OBD-1. Will a Mega Squirt work? Is it OBD-2? I'm not a computer whiz so I don't know if there is something out there that is basically plug and play? I'm not positive but I think the modifications I have done exceed the capabilities of the A9L. Appreciate the help.
You can get a Plug-n-Play MegaSquirt for $840. Since you don't have a stock HO, you'll also need a wideband O2 sensor too. Another $150-200. You'll also need to tune it or somebody to tune it. If you aren't a 'computer whiz', I probably wouldn't recommend it.
MegaSquirt isn't OBD-2 or even OBD-1 (which is just a catchall for any ECU that has some sort of diagnostics and is able to tell the end user.
I'd wager a large bet you haven't exceeded the capabilities of the A9L. Even though it's 30 years old, it is still more advanced than any MegaSquirt, Holley, etc for basic drivability parameters (it doesn't have capability for data logging, boost control, etc, but if you've ever looked at the GUFB strategy document you can see how complicated it is. Designed to make the vehicle drivable and emissions complaint in any possible environmental condition. It has orders of magnitude more development man hours put into it than MegaSquirt/Holley/etc)
The downside to the A9L is it can be hard to tune because of the complexity of the strategy. Megasquirt is much easier to tune because it doesn't have all of the emissions or complicated edge case drivability dependencies. Holley is easier than Megasquirt.
Cougar 5.0 went Holley, but his exact route requires putting in a carb intake and a full re-wire. (Correct me if I'm wrong!) Holley has other options, but I'm not super familiar.
Personally, if you aren't interesting into dumping a bunch of labor/$ into your car, I'd try and find a shop (even if it's down the road a bit) and tune your current A9L as you're N/A and don't have an extreme setup.