Listen to Chuck. Go get the TC rear end, put 94-98 v6 or v8 axles in it (they are the same), your brakes of the 2000 rear end, and call the back 5 lug sway done. Grab the rear brake lines off the TC from the front of the car to the rear calipers as they are run different than an '83 and it makes the install a lot cleaner.
Use the 94 spindles up front, you will need 0.330" of washer stack if you use the Fox spindles. Run the stock SN95 rotors and use '99 and up calipers. They are the dual piston and are alot better than the single piston 94-98 units. You will need to grind a little off the ears of the 94 spindles but its literally a 1/6" to an 1/8" at most. You can get SS braided lines that will fit your existing hard lines and go straight to the calipers with no adapters or you can run stock rubber lines but you will need an adapter for the right side if memory serves me right.
I would also suggest that you swap the brake booster to a 1993 Cobra Mustang unit (same bolt pattern on the firewall as our cars) and use a 94-98 GT or V6 master cylinder. The 1993 Mustang Cobra master cylinder is really good as its a 1" bore but they are getting really hard to find. I have used the 94-98 units with zero issues and they are 1-1/6" bore.
Gut the stock proportioning side of the stock combination / proportioning valve and install an inline proportioning valve on the rear brake line so you can adjust the bias.
Sounds like a lot but I can vouch for this system as it should have been stock on the Fox cars.
Isn't there a guy that has a Fox TBird and Cougar salvage yard or did that go away? Only bringing it up as this would probably be of interest to someone like that. Hate to see more of these cars get crushed.
Its like anything else that seems overwhelming, one step at a time. Pick some low hanging fruit (easy stuff) and get those knocked out and then move on to the harder stuff. Once you start making progress the motivation gets better or at least that it how it works with me.
If there is no low hanging fruit then I would work up a plan on how your are going to start and finish the work. Write it down and keep working on that until you feel like its a good plan. You can even post it here and get some other eyes on it in case they know of an easier / faster/ holy puppies don't do it that way kind of thing.
Just an FYI, the pump I got took a 16mm x 1.5 o-ring seal to AN-06 adapter fitting on the high side connection at the pump. Fitting I got is a Russell P/N 648060 and they also have a 14mm one which some have said their pump needed. I used my calipers and the ID of the threads on mine was a little larger than 1/2” so that lead me to order the 16mm which was correct. This allows me to build custom AN-06 lines to and from the pump. I also found Crown Vic rack and pinion adapters so it now has AN-06 fittings on it as well.
Maximum Motorsports has the ones for the Fox and SN95 racks. No cheap but they are the correct fittings of anyone ever goes down that road.
As soon as you start the motor (V8 or cylinder challenged with a hair dryer) you cannot hear it at all. Most say that with the wheel well liner in its barely audible. I am thinking the age of the pump, how well the system was maintained, and what fluid is used will have a lot to do with it as well.
The one thing that I have seen on several Volvo threads is they advise to run Pentosin CHF 202 (CHF 11 was the original) for the fluid. The Volvo manual says ATF but fluid that caused problems with the Volvo rack and pinions (failures) so they updated to the Pentosin fluid which is available at NAPA, Autozone, and Amazon. You can still get the CHF 11 at O'Reillys.
So the pump is a FoMoCo pump (remember that Ford owned Volvo from late 1999 to 2010) and evidently is is good to go with these fluids. I have no idea if the Crown Vic rack will tolerate the Pentosin fluids or not and cannot find any definitive answer so right now my choice is to run a fully synthetic ATF like Redline D4. I run this in my 1993 Mustang with a stock FoMoCo pump and an SN95 rack and it is super quiet.
I have toyed with the idea of hydroboost brakes on the F100 but I am going to run power brakes with a vacuum booster. Front brakes will consist of GT500 rotors, C5 Corvette calipers, and custom adapters on the Crown Vic spindles. Rear brakes are off of a Ford Explorer as they work with the big bearing Torino ends that I have had welded to the housing. Gives me an emergency brake that will tie into the factory e-brake foot pedal in the truck.
The Volvo electric power steering pump just keeps me from having to spend about $800 to put a belt driven power steering pump on the Coyote motor. I can put the Volvo pump on, use the controller, and build custom lines for about $300 if I do it all brand new.
Little bit of a wait being they are across the Atlantic but right now they are the only ones that produce the interfaces and are super clean.
Found this over on the Corral and have noodled around and found it to be relatively moderate on the cost if you are only installing the pump. If you swap to an SN-95 rack and pinion then the cost goes up from there.
Forgot to update this but tires are on the car, just burned the old gas off and put some fresh in, about done with the instrument cluster (have a thread on that), so now its down to this seat issue.
I may end up cutting the cross bar out of the hoop on the roll cage. The seat backs rest on it and I think they are not reclined as far back as the ones in my Mustang which has the same seats and the Griggs uppers in it as well. Have been driving the Mustang the last couple of days (temps are in the mid 80's here) which is what has me thinking its a seat recline issue. I have an adjustable angle so I am going to measure where the Mustang seats are set and then when I get back to the Bird next weekend see where those are. Will suck to cut the bar out but something has to give.
Great work on the red car and the Firebird vert is awesome! Have a buddy that has a '73 455 HO car so his knowledge has bled ever so slightly off on me. He would be proud I actually sort of recognized that nose trim.
Any other sheet metal replacement in the works for the Cougar?