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Messages - EricCoolCats

31
Lounge / Re: Annual Appeal
so,,,, i just posted above and instead of using the word "dang"  i used the word  C.......R.......A........P and the database changed my word to "puppies".   :dunno:    Of course you cant see that now but i thought it was odd.  is there a list of words we are not allowed to use ?  Paypal would smile upon this  LOL

Yes there is a filter. A few people were a little, errr, heavy on the swearing side and I just didn't feel like manually cleaning things up anymore. No offense. :)
32
Lounge / Re: Annual Appeal
Not particularly, but we now have the next year covered and some left over that I'll bank for the following year. Any little bit helps, as they say.

I really hate asking anyone for financial assistance but man, this has been a rough year for Alex and I. Otherwise we'd just cover it and call it a day.

Again, thanks to everyone that pitched in, we're humbled.
33
Lounge / Re: Annual Appeal
Ahhh okay, yeah that would work.

And by the way, a huge THANK YOU to all that have contributed, you guys are the best.
34
Lounge / Re: Annual Appeal
*asks in Canadian* Can you do Interac e-transfer? Is that even a thing for Americans?

Hmmmm, never heard of it before. Looks like for an international transfer you'd need my bank information. I'm not sure if I should be comfortable with that LOL.

I guess I could also take Apple Pay if anyone is an Apple user. Never got paid via text before but that's already set up on my iPhone.
35
Lounge / Re: Annual Appeal
Venmo - @Eric-Dess

Forgot I had that LOL

I'll look into Cash App.
37
Lounge / Annual Appeal
Hello everyone, it's that time of year again where Alex and I renew the hosting and domain name for this site. You may not know this but we pay for everything out of pocket to keep this place going all year. We are both running a little tight right now (Alex especially with a new baby, new wife, and really crazy mortgage) and would appreciate any assistance you can pass along. Even $5 is cool. If we are fortunate enough to have leftover funds we'll save them and apply them next year.

Paypal - eric@coolcats.net

Thanks everyone! Appreciate your viewership and loyalty, it means the world to us.
38
Misc Tech / Re: Correct Serpentine Belt and Tensioner Numbers?(56k warning)
I braved the cold and got some estimated numbers for you on the pulleys. These were across the front (face) and all are estimates.

Crank - 8"
Tensioner - 3-3/16"*
Alternator - 2-1/2"
Air Pump - 5-3/4"
Power Steering - 6-13/16"*
A/C - 6"*
Water Pump - 6"*

*Best I could get without them being removed

Hope that helps!
39
Misc Tech / Re: Correct Serpentine Belt Number
I can tell you that the power steering pulley diameter changed with the two different A/C systems available on the 3.8L (HR980 vs. FS-6). Maybe that also happened with the non-A/C vs. A/C pulley, I can't say for certain. AFAIK all the other pulleys were the same.

If you need to double check a dimension on a pulley or anything else, I'd be more than happy to check my '84 3.8L setup for you. Right now I haven't torn anything apart for the A/C swap so it's still in stock configuration. I also have the upgrade A/C parts laying around and can check those sizes as well.
41
Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: 83-86 Front and Rear Bumper Bright Insert - Need Suggestions
https://www.coolcats.net/restoring/#exterior

BUMPERS (FRONT AND REAR)

The bumper molding for your car (front and back) is formed into the bumper cover itself; it is not removable or replaceable. If the paint on the molding is faded or you see the yellow bumper cover material showing through, then it just needs a simple repaint—see Refinishing below.

The chrome strip—technically called a “rub strip”—is replaceable, however. Finding correct NOS rub strips is pretty much futile at this point, but there is an excellent substitute for them. Under the Sherman Brand, p/n 547-354, is a universal rub strip meant for a mid-1990s Grand Marquis. It is an identical profile and fit for our cars, both front and rear. The only caveat is that the pre-applied double-stick tape is actually on the wrong part of the rub strip. You may have to remove it and reapply using a good (3M) double-sided tape. And it’s missing the factory-style metal clips, which you really don’t need. But that’s it…otherwise it is 100% the same as what we had from the factory. We’ve seen it applied in person and it’s perfect. So this should be considered a permanent solution. You can find it on eBay, Summit Racing, or possibly Rock Auto.

Thanks to Matt for the info.
43
Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: Painting interior parts
There is a trim code on your door tag (two letters). It should be something like HB. The B is Regatta Blue (H would be the seat trim/style).

Are you talking about the arm rest on the door panel? I have had limited success in painting them. The harder vinyl surfaces have a tendency to keep the paint sticky*. However, can they be color matched? Sure.

I have always used paint from the auto paint shops, mixed and ready to spray in a spray gun. Usually I go with PPG as it's more readily available in my area, but DuPont is just fine also. Getting paint made this way is the best way to guarantee that the paint will match. It dries quickly, stays pliable, and bites into the surface well. Just FYI, a lot of auto paint shops can mix up the paint and put it into a spray can for you. That's the best of all worlds if you can do it.

Going with aftermarket spray cans, I can tell you that the Regatta Blue from LMR does not match the factory shade at all. Do not waste your time and money on that. I am unsure if SEM has a pre-made blue that matches Regatta Blue. I believe DupliColor has an interior paint line and you might find something close there.

Your finished product is only going to be as good as your prep work. The armrest will have to be removed, lightly sanded to get any big imperfections out of the old paint (don't sand all the grain out though!), and then wiped down with wax/grease remover. You probably should consider spraying adhesion promoter on first, as that puts a layer between the surface and the paint and will greatly help in making sure the paint does not remain forever sticky. Then you can spray away...all of these paints will cover the old color, no need for a primer, and you will end up only needing 2-3 coats. Recommend at least a 24-hour drying period before putting back in the car.

Over time the paint may scratch a little and that's kind of normal with use. Easy enough to spray a touch-up.

* I have your door panels and the map pockets are a constant source of pain and misery for me, as every single one that I've tried to paint has stayed tacky, even following the correct prep guidelines outlined above. I'm told it's the release compound imbedded in the vinyl since new that is the problem. No way to get around that except find another panel and hope for the best. I might give up and get it vinyl wrapped. Just FYI.
44
Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: Under hood mat/insulation
Yes, mine did. It was just perforated and I knocked it out. Even if you got one without a provision for a hood light, you could trace from the old one and cut it in without too much trouble.
45
Body/Appearance/Interior / Re: Under hood mat/insulation
I used eBay hood insulation on my '84. Pretty good quality, cuts are just like OEM, I have nothing bad to say about it. It's not 100% the same as original but it's really close.

My only suggestion would be to get brand new clips to hold it in. LMR has ones for a Mustang that are identical to ours, even down to the part number stamped on them.

https://lmr.com/item/PE-974/1983-93-Mustang-Under-Hood-Insulator-Retainers-Pack-Of-14