Moats QH - Sold Rest of the stuff came from a Mass-Flo efi setup, car ran at strip for 2 summers, prob less than 200 miles on it all. 302 Engine Harness - 340 (minor dmg, 3 plugs are pulled loose but undamaged, just need recrimped, minor scuffing on a few wires) A9l with Chip - Sold Mallory Billet Dist (tfi) - 225 Also have the Mass Air Flow sensor from the kit, should work with any fuel injected throttle body. Will take 150 for it.
If you have questions or think I'm high just PM me and I'll be happy to talk.
About to do this swap and getting hit and miss info about it being spongy. Trying to decide if I want to just get a different MC.
Also will I need to gut my stock prop and get aftermarket with this setup. I know this topic has been beaten to death as I read a ton of threads on this site about it but wanting a clear cut answer before I pull the trigger. I appreciate any and all input and maybe if we get a clear answer we can make a sticky?
So ever since I swapped to EFI it ran kind of like balls. First issue was the pickup and TFI were bad in the mallory dist (brand new, not second hand). Second issue is I had the fuel setup a bit backwards, I had the reg before the fuel rails which apparently doesn't do its job right. And finally the stupidest thing, ever since we swapped to the EFI and retimed it, it ran like . Would get up to temp and wouldn't idle, die at stop lights and be super hard to start like the timing was way fast. After doing a ton of research about almost every nonstock new part on my car I found that Pro-Race harmonic balancers have a rep for spinning. Sure enough i pulled and compared to a ford racing balancer and it had rotated enough that 30* was past 30* on the ford one. Swapped balancers and proceeded to drive the snot out of it. Now it has a hiccup at tip in but I think its a vac leak or dirty injector. Just finally glad I'm making progress again after banging my head against the wall for months.
Hello, going to ditch my fuel injection setup. Looking to go to a big blower on top and 2 slow fuel leaks aka carbs. The fuel injection setup runs decent but I don't think it is doing what I want currently plus I need to sink more money into it to tune it. I labored back and forth over this. Going to just pull the trigger and see. The original plan involved daily driving this but the more I play with my car the less street friendly it has became. Now I think I'm just going to head in the direction I've been all along and make a track/weekend car. Side note, its a brand new mass flo setup with probably 200 miles on it, I paid around 3200 for it. Do you guys think I could get 2400 out of it with a quarter horse tacked onto the deal?
So been wanting a set of 17 x 8 rims, and my Dad who is the magic deal man scored a set of 17x7 cobra R repro 4 lugs for 150. He said I could have them for that price, so my question. Should I snag them and use them or stick with my TC rims. I have to buy tires either way but not sure what benefit I'll get from them just being taller, was hoping for wider.
Only bad thing with them is one rim is chewed up in the back from a brake caliper that came loose. It isn't bad and I think it would balance out. I didn't get pics and won't be out there for another week or so.
I couldn't find the orig thread, but was a talk of sanding and putting the varnish on headlights, well here is a before and after And my car has been sitting outside for about 6 months since and is still that clear.
So I needed pretty much a new front end under my 96 bird, got it all from rock auto, everything was good with the exception of the end links. I put the nut on the top stud (the one that goes through the spindle) and was running it down with a ratchet wrench and just put a tiny bit of torque on it, keep in mind this is a 6 inch long wrench, and I pulled the threads out of the stud. I decided I would run the other nut down behind the first one and try to back them off together, well the stud has a hollow portion for an allen wrench to go in and to keep it from spinning while tightening it. This twisted off.... So plan B, I took a chisel and cut the nut off which was some super soft metal and took a good hour with a hammer to get all apart. So i got it back off and I didn't want to spend the 50 dollars local to replace this part. Myself, the endlink, a grinder and a die set got real friendly. Its all back together with plenty of stud left and torqued down right but I'm left with a WTH feeling after all this. The upper, lower control arms went in no problem, and the strut rod bushings went together no problem. Even the other side's end link went together no issue. Not sure what I did to offend the drivers side though.
Just curious how people spend their time, I've given up TV for the last 5 years or so and been on the "if it doesn't interact with you or force you to think then leave it be" kick for awhile. Most of my free time is spent reading, or playing online games with my wife. But I've also found time to learn to sew, solder, program, and looking to learn another language. Also just got QH and gonna dive into that. Long term goal is to start doing upholstery on the side for fun and profit lol.
Disclaimer I don't own a TV either, which surprises a ton of people.
Per the title, My car isn't lowered. I was looking at getting new rims but just bought a Quarter Horse and software so that set me back. Think I'll just buy some tires and run these rims for another year or two depending how long the tires last. Just curious what the biggest/widest tire I can run is without rubbing.
Hey guys, I've got a slightly built up 302, chip TFS heads etc and wanted to get more performance. I was recommended to port and polish the intake and exhaust. We found out they used abrasive material to do it like gritty sand. So I got with my friend that tunes Hondas and we decided to try it ourselves. We got a bag of sandblasting sand and hooked up into the intake and started the car. We had to hold the gas so it would run. He wanted to let the engine suck in the sand through the intake so it would port it out and then push it out the exhaust so it would port the exhaust manifold. After running the car and letting it suck in sand we got about half way through a 25 lb bag. The check engine light was on and the engine was bucking and kicking and sounding really weird. We stopped and hooked the car back up normal and took off the sand supply. We tried to start it again and it was really hard. Once started it couldn't idle and kept making weird noises. We took it out and drove it and it started to make sing and knocking noises. Help! Can anyone tell me what to do! My buddy only does Hondas so he doesn't know much about Fords.
Well tore apart my t-bird this weekend and I sheared the input shaft off in the torque converter. Pulled the trans apart and put it back together to make sure there wasn't any damage but in the process I had to use an input shaft from a different trans. The new input shaft has a thinner spot in the middle but was 26 spline and fit with no problems. Only thing I can figure is that it was from a newer trans and that this might be an oil change? See pic below, just wondering if it would be weaker than what came out of there.
Had this in my street car worked great, got really old shifting in town. Asking 150 Shipped, its the reverse shift pattern and came out of a 80 model c4. If you have any question just PM me.
Been chasing it for awhile, checked all the front end components and everything was tight, checked rack to make sure the bushings in it were fine. Finally crawled under it to change the oil and trans fluid last week and noticed the rubber for the motor mount is just gone. Was not fun to change but now no front end noise. Was completely separated and only the safety was holding it in.
Well went to put antifreeze in the bird and take it down the road and back, the torque converter in it was sketchy (auto zone reman as I wasn't sure how long I was keeping the combo). So off I go babying it till she gets warm, pull the ratchet shifter into second, chirp go the tires, I brake for the curve and gently apply the loud pedal coming out and bump her into third. Car kicks and coughs and I have nothing.... sounds like it is free wheeling, park works but nothing else. Think I killed something, will post a pic or something in the right thread when I manage to tear into it. I wasn't on it hard when it died, probably a 4k shift part throttle. Not sure what I broke but I think the torque converter bit the dust. No bad noises so I doubt I killed any internals.
