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Messages - Aerocoupe

2523
Suspension/Steering / Rear brake dragging
Interesting indeed.  It has to be something simple like the primary and secondary shoes are on the wrong side or the adjuster is in backwards.  Brakes are pretty simple when you get right down to it.  I always had to get the picture in the manual out to make sure I had it right.  I remember the first time I did them I disassembled both sides and then tried to put it back together...the old photographic memory did not work on that one.  That is when my dad bailed me out and got the service manual out and showed me the picture of what it was supposed to look like.  Now I disassemble one side and put it back together before touching the other side so I have a reference.

Good luck and I still say it will be something simple.

Darren
2524
Engine Tech / Kenne Bell supercharger or better heads/cam?
Do yourself a favor and go back and read what you wrote in post #5.  Jay Allen or Ed Curtis (both are great guys and know what they are doing) can get you a head/cam combo to go with a good intake that will make great power.  You can have them grind you a cam that will make good power NA and will really come on with some boost. I have an Ed Curtis setup and it makes right at 315 rwhp / 325 ft-lbs torque with the 302 in my Coupe.

Several of the guys have hit the nail on the head with comments on what else you have to change with the addition of the blower.  Typically with the fuel system it is things like the injectors, fuel pump or adding a booster pump, and tuning the car.  The stock fuel system other than the injectors and pump usually does not come into play until you are making hp in excess of 500 fwhp and then its just the fuel rails.  I have seen several cars making up towards the 500 rwhp range on stock rails at HPP Racing over in Dallas so its a number I am comfortable throwing out there.

Some blower kits come with a new MAF but I think that depends on the amount of boost...not sure here as I do not own one but you always hear and read about what came with brand X's kit.

I think what it comes down to is building a motor that is set up for boost or nitrous and you will be safe adding it later on down the line.  This is small stuff like gaping the rings, studs on the bottom end and the heads, girdles both on the mains and the rockers, good gaskets, and possibly getting the Fel-Pro Loc Wire head gaskets and having the receiver grove put in the heads.  Lots of choices and lots of figuring out how much power you want to make and what your wallet will let you do.

On to the rear end...a 9 inch.  Oh boy, the age old argument of how strong it is compared all the other rear ends in the world.  Granted the 9 inch is a beast but with that beast comes a price tag.  To install a 9 inch you will either have to buy a housing that is already jigged up to bolt into a Mustang or jig it up yourself.  A properly outfitted 8.8 will handle a bunch of power.  You will most likely not break a properly built 8.8 with a 302W based power plant.  There are quite a few of them behind 351W based power plants making in excess of 700 rwhp and 700 f-lbs of torque that are doing just fine.

Good luck with it as a blower under the hood not only looks good the whine sure gets that attention really quick as well.  I am a bit of a ProCharger fan due to the self lubricating factor and they just seem to make more power but they are pricey.

Darren
2526
Suspension/Steering / Rear brake dragging
If it was fine before you did the work and it is having the issues after you did the work then most likely it was a simple installation error.  If you have a Haynes manual there is usually a picture of what the assembled unit is supposed to look like and it will say if it is the left or right hand side.  You just have to flip it for the opposite side as there are primary and secondary shoes and the adjuster can easily be installed backwards.  You may also have an e-brake cable that is frozen causing an issue.

Darren
2527
Suspension/Steering / Aftermarket stock A arms 86 TC
You can rebuild the stock units with Moog bushings and ball joints.  Most parts houses let you barrow the press that will remove and install them.  I did it a couple of times and with patience, an impact wrench & air compressor, and some cold ice tea it was not a bad deal at all.  OReilly's has all the parts here locally but I am sure other parts stores carry them as well. I came up with about $175 for the Moog ball joints and bushings when I called the local store.

The Ford Racing parts are very nice and work really well but they can be pricey.  Just wanted to list an alternative to someone on a budget and who has a Saturday to kill.  Found them on Summit for $299 for the pair here:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-3075-A/

Darren
2528
Suspension/Steering / strut questions??
Not likely.  Most are designed for the Koni or Bilstein units.  Typically the stockers cannot take the loading that is created by the coil over on the body of the stock damper.  I have not tried this it is however what I have been told by MM and Griggs dealers.

Darren
2529
Suspension/Steering / Griggs K member
From what I understand Bruce sold the company to an investor.  He will still run the place but now the $$$ is there for him to further develope more product and not have to worry about the day to day financial part of the business.  Bruce is a great guy and hopefully this will allow him to do what he does best and that is design and develope new products.

Call John at Chicane 23.  He can and will get you the answers you need.  I want to say the '82 Mustang had a narrow K-member from the factory but I am not sure what K-member you installed from Griggs.  My bet is it is a stock Fox Mustang unit for the 87-93 cars which might just work.  Anyhow, give John a call and just explain what you are wanting to do.

Darren
2530
Suspension/Steering / Griggs K member
Well that is a great question.  I thought the T-Birds were K-member specific and got into it with some of the guys here a couple of years ago over that topic.  Needless to say I lost that battle as I am not a chassis guy.  Griggs sold me a T-Bird specific unit but we had issues with fitment.  I ended up sending Bruce my stock K-member and the third one fit the car.  My car is an '83 so I am not sure if that really had anything to do with it or if it was made on a Monday or Friday when the workers were not really into what they were doing.  I know alot of the guys on here put Mustang K-members in their cars so I would think as long as you know which one to put in you are okay.  Here is a thread on the K-member dimensions if that will help:

http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=27386

Not really sure what year car you have so its kinda hard to help much more.

Your best bet is to call Griggs or Maximum Motorsports and talk to them directly and be very honest with what you are building and what you expect.  My buddy John is a dealer for both at http://www.chicane23.com.  He won the South Region American Iron series in 2004 & 2005 so he is pretty well versed in the NASA scene.

Darren
2531
Suspension/Steering / Guess what I did?
Wow, that is not alot of adjustment as all.  I could get around -3 degrees with the stock K-member and not touching the shock tower holes.  Not sure how much now with the Griggs K-member but it does not matter as it will be set up for the street not road racing.

Darren
2532
Body/Appearance/Interior / Information Only
I know this is going to sound stupid but what are you guys talking about here?  The title of the thread sucked me in and I am not 100% sure what parts these numbers and descriptions are for.  I am guessing the window inner and outer window felts and the felt that installed inside the door frame itself?

If so I can get you all the part numbers for the 83/84 when I replaced mine back in 1999.  I should still have the receipt from the dealer at the house.  I should also have the part numbers for all of the door seals as well as those were also replaced.

Darren
2534
Engine Tech / mac headers
Its been a few years since I had them and thunderjet302 is 100% correct.  I had gladly forgotten about how they lacked a one piece .  It took a small pry bar to get the tubes to line up so you could bolt them up to the head towards the end of their lives.  I think I just relived a nightmare...those things sucked.  The BBK headers I have now are one piece and I have had no leaks.

Darren
2535
Engine Tech / mac headers
These is on my Coupe but I thought it to be relevant.  I had a set and they lasted for about four years and then I started having gasket issues.  They would blow out between the head and the header .  I went through all kings of  trying to keep them sealed up.  Pulled them off and they were warped so I chucked them in the recycle bin and installed some BBK shorties.  They have been on the car for over seven years and no issues what so ever.  The  from the header to the head is much thicker than the MAC units were and the quality was a bit better IMO.

Darren