I am quoting Jack Hidley from Maximum Motorsports:
[COLOR="blue"]"Fox (quick ratio power) amd SN95 racks have the same steering ratio, 15:1. Most of the Fox racks have steering racking limiting clips installed from Ford to limit the steering lock and keep the "wide" 225 tires from rubbing. When you remove the clips, both racks require the same number of turns lock to lock. The biggest difference in the racks is that the SN95 racks have a stiffer torsion valve in them. This gives much more weight when the car is going straight and reduces the assist level when the car is turning."[/COLOR]
By using the Fox pump the only difference is in the stiffer torsion valve as Jack describes. You can also put a little more effort into the system by installing a V6 Mustang pulley on the pump which slows the pump down due to the larger diameter. This is usually only something you would do with a road race car.
Jack also has stated this over and over on several forums:
[COLOR="blue"]"The stiffness of the torsion bar in a power rack determines how much steering wheel torque it takes before you start to get power assist. Once you have started to get power assist, the output pressure/volume of the PS pump determines how much power assist there is. When you drive the car in a straight line, and give it a very small amount of steering wheel torque, there is no power assist until you apply enough torque to open the flow control valve in the rack, then you get power assist. Vehicle speed has nothing to do with power steering behavior in a Fox or SN95 Mustang."[/COLOR]
So what you get with the SN95 rack is a newer design, increased feed back, and the car just generally does not feel like an over boosted grandma car.
Just my 0.02 on this. I have replaced a few racks, pumps, and lines on my Fox cars and finally bit the bullet and installed the SN95 Mustang rack on both cars with the MM hybrid steering shaft and the stock Fox 5.0 Mustang power steering pump. What this does is get the over boosted feel of the Fox rack out of the car. The steering response is much better IMO and these racks can be found in an auto recyclers yard super cheap if you need to save a few dollars. The expensive part of the swap is the hybrid shaft from Maximum Motorsports but it is by far better than the stock rag joint and it kills the Flaming River replacement as far a function and it fit perfect with no mods to my headers. The cost break down for me was as follows:
Rack (A-1 Cardone at O'Reilly) - $102.99 (you will need a core) Pump w/reservoir (A-1 Cardone at O'Reilly) - $46.99 (you will need a core) and its actually a $1 more for one without the reservoir. MM Hybrid Shaft (http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_14&products_id=461) - $229.95 list and most MM dealers will knock some off Low pressure line (used high pressure fuel line from O'Reilly) - $2.49 per foot, I bought two feet so I would have enough to get it to fit right. High pressure line with A/C (O'Reilly) - $19.99
You will have to use the Fox inner tie rods off your Fox rack as the threads are SAE between the inner and outer tie rods on a Fox. The SN95 cars are metric threads between the tie rods but are the same thread as the Fox racks where the inner tie rods attach to the rack. They do not check the cores so you just slip your Fox rack back in the box and put the SN95 tie rod ends on it. If your inner tie rods are junk then just get new ones which are about $17 each in the house brand and $37 for the Moog units.
I took the opportunity to install a bump steer kit as both of my cars are pretty low but you still get a kit for a Fox car.
V8Demon, You are absolutely correct on the flow on the LS1 heads but my statement was not meant to detract from the LS1. Comparing the LS1 gear to the 351W roller motor out of a Lightning is sort of fair but you limited the 351W to a py cam. Again, apples to oranges in my opinion. Now if you had compared the stock 351W out of the lightning to the same motor with the TFS2 cam and then a cam recommended by Comp or another source that would prove a point due to keeping the control the same. Again, this is just the way I see is and would think that it would be the way to do a good comparision to prove a point.
I went back and reread the entire thread and this all started with a simple post on a carb size calculator. It has drifted over to the current discussion of Bruce also stating that he was looking at building a motor with certain components. Others were offering advice on what to do with the combo to improve on it. I think the general consensus is that the TFS2 or F303 cam should not be used. I have had great luck with calling Comp Cams and getting a recommendation on a cam to use with a current engine combo. From there you can take the specs on the cam they recommend and see if you can find a used one or simply bite the bullet and buy a new cam. Get a cam that a known builder or cam guru suggests with current parts to be used and I think you will have built a great motor and it will be within your budget. Will it be all it can be? The obvious answer is no if you want to add more parts and money but if the OP wants to keep the build mild and just get all that he can out of the parts he has then the answer is yes.
Again, I am not arguing anyone's points on how to build a motor or what path to take. It just appears to me this got off track of the original intent. Hopefully Bruce is still watching the thread but I think he bailed on it a few pages ago, cannot blame him at all.
Not a fan of the big girls especially hairy ones. I guess I like mine with more up top and am willing to sacrifice some bottom end for it. The exterior must have a good wax job as well.
Go check out http://www.sbftech.com/ and you will understand. Kind of similar to what you will find at http://www.corner-carvers.com only they are nice at sbftech. You were warned so just lurk...do not post until you are 100% you want to go down that road.
What I don't even get is the refercence to a LS1 motor. Its bad enough to try and debate different sbf combos let alone another brand of motor. Granted the LS series of Cheverolet motors are good (not great) but that is a whole other can of worms. Keep the thread on topic and post useful information pertaining to the thread and the OP.
Download the CamQuest 6 and play with it. The more you use it the better you will understand how the software works and you can really dial in a good cam for your combo.
It all starts with the cam as it is the brains of the motor. Cam selection is just more than having enough clearance between the piston and valve. You have to take into consideration the heads, intake, compression ratio, and the rpm range of the motor. Once that is taken into consideration then you select a carb or size the MAF, TB, and injectors.
This is why a plan is so critical to the build. Budget is a consideration but if you have a plan then you can start looking for the parts at which time you may find some really good deals on used parts which helps you achieve the budget goal.
The increase in track width is 8mm (0.3125" or 5/16") per side using the 96+ spindles. This has been very well dospoogeented on several of the Mustang sites. I have the 96+ spindles on my 83 T-Bird and my 93 Coupe and it was a minimal increase to say the least. Granted I have tubular K-members on both cars but I don't think either on of them changed the track width of the car. Here is a shot of the car from the side and you can see that the wheels are about even with the fenders.
I have a question for those that have done this with the parts from JC Whittney. I replaced the ones on my 83 years ago with new Ford units and they are cracking. I had to remove the staples and rivit the new ones onto the chrome trim pieces. I viewed the writeup on how to replace the ones on the Mark VII and it looked a bit more complicated than what I think it would be on the T-Birds. If you use the units from JCW is the process the same on the T-Birds as it is shown in the write up for the Mark Vii's?
It will basically keep the shock towers from moving inward on compression in hard cornering. Makes the car more predictable in the turns. If you already have good full length subframe connectors in the car I doubt you would notice any more rigidity in the chassis.
Well hopefully it will help you and anyone else with an aftermarket seat install. They have been in there since 2003 and I weigh about 190 so they have stood up very well.
