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Messages - Moonmount

Suspension/Steering / Re: Problems with Cobra brake swap
So what I think I'm reading here is technically what I have should work, but not be ideal. I think I've just gotten multiple bad masters in a row. Now reading off of what you are saying I'm thinking I should use a 93 master/booster due to ease. I have ordered them and I'm going to see what happens. I don't really know what else to do.
Suspension/Steering / Re: Problems with Cobra brake swap
Alright, so when I read the bore diameter when looking at master cylinders. It seems they messed up the listing because it said that it was 1.183 bore. Now looking at other ones it is definitely not. So I will pick up another master.

Now I do not understand how a bad brake booster would cause a mushy soft pedal. Can you please inform me on this

The system has been manually flushed, then I used a power flusher after I bought one. It was then power flushed with a machine that we have at work. The pushrod length was checked with a digital caliper and then I double checked it with a booster pushrod length tool later on.

The stock proportioning valve has been removed. The two front lines are connected via a T to the master and the rear is ran with just a Wilwood manual proportioning valve.
LEADS on T-Bird/Cougar Stuff For Sale / Re: Aftermarket Air Cleaner
The companies I know about.
No one cares to mod them because the same exact cars they usually came in had better engine options. If you want to turbo it and go crazy that would be neat to see. The supercoupes used the same engine platform and people make those things fast all the time
Suspension/Steering / Re: Problems with Cobra brake swap
If its not OE or high dollar aftermarket i'm finding all replacement parts are absolute garbage.  The parts stores are selling the absolute worst parts. It's getting bad. I had to do 3 starters in a Cherokee at work because the starters were going out in about a weeks time. Finally we got one that was worth a puppies.
Suspension/Steering / Re: Problems with Cobra brake swap
Wilwood proportioning valve. The sn95 gt rear brakes are the same the only difference is the caliper bracket is connected and the pads are thinner to compensate for the vented rotor. 15/16 is considered by many to be ideal for the cobra brake swap. The pedal feel is extremely soft and a lot of dead pedal. According to what everyone is saying on other forums I should have a decently stiff pedal. the lead tech at my shop did all the calculations for master sizing and said that its the right size for the calipers. its stumped literally everyone. I was talking to the shop manager and he was saying I may have gotten multiple faulty master cylinders as it took 3 to get his brakes to even work. All of these units have been from oriellys. I had him order a stock 88 thunderbird master from autozone. This will make the 5th total master this car has seen. Now what I have been reading is that the larger the master cylinder bore the greater the pedal effort. So in theory with a fox mustang booster and a 88 bird master it should be absolutely miserable. Lets hope so.
Suspension/Steering / Problems with Cobra brake swap
Swapped Cobra brakes on a while ago and it's been absolute hell trying to get them right. I have later cobra front brakes, sn95 gt rear brakes, 94 Cobra master and a fox booster. Now no one has been able to figure out why I have the worlds softest and worst pedal feel. half the pedal is dead, but I can still lock up my brakes on the highway. I have checked booster rod clearance and adjusted it. the brakes have been bled in every way including pressure bleed. I have put a total of 6 gallons of brake fluid through this system trying to figure it out. 4 mechanics have tried to figure it out. The only bandaid that we have thought up was to just adjust out the booster pushrod to where it preloaded the master. we pressure bled them with the new machine at work and it just absolutely made them even worse than they were recently. any ideas, any help would be very appreciated.
Suspension/Steering / parking brake cable removal
Alright, so I got my brackets and cables in. Now I'm having trouble getting the front cable removed. What do I need to remove to get to that cable where it connects to the pedal?