Car looks great. It will definitely be a nice cruiser. What wheels are you gonna go with? 10 holes would give it that’ factory look . I think white ( or black)mesh wheels would complement the car really well but they are such a pain to keep clean.
It’s been awhile but If I recall correctly, you can push the button all the way in while pulling up on the handle. It still may be difficult to remove but I “think “ that’s how they come off. At one time Ron Hartman had a few of those white pieces for sale. Not sure what they are called. Ron is on a lot of the Tbird FB pages. Good luck and let us know if this works.
I’m wanting to purchase RLCA (adjustable) for my 85 Tbird. CHE are a little less cost. What are the difference between these and Maximum Motorsport design. ? Anyone here running these with good results?
I know this is a long shot. I’m trying to locate the original blank keys sold with the 1985 , 30th anniversary Tbirds. Not the actual ignition keys but the collectible blanks. I have the jacket but would like the keys to add to the collection. I’ve tried EBay and FB. No luck so far. Any leads would be appreciated.
I’m thinking of replacing my hinges on my 85 with 87-88 style. Are they a simple bolt on install or is more required? Also Eric mentions springs from a Mark VII bolting onto existing hinges. Any more info on that? Ray
Using the 1987-88 hinges on the convertible was an issue due to the fiberglass hood. The springs kept pushing the back of the hood upward when it was closed.
I tried mocking up the gas struts but kept running into a big problem: there's no place for them to "fold into" when you close the hood. At least, that was the case with the ones I used (old Ford Probe hatchback struts that had lost their pressure). They kept hitting the strut towers.
Then I discovered the magic of the bolt-on Mark VII springs. Solved all the problems. It's low pressure enough to let a fiberglass hood stay flat when closed. But they're heavy duty enough to hold up a steel hood. They have coils that appear similar to GM-style ones, so replacements are readily available.
The only thing that is maybe an issue to someone else is that the hood doesn't go up as much when it's open. It's not real low, but it's not as high as when there was a prop rod. I'd estimate maybe 2" lower. Otherwise, it's the best solution I've seen so far.