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Topic: I can use some help with winter axle build. (Read 2796 times) previous topic - next topic

I can use some help with winter axle build.

I picked up an TC rear six mouths ago stripped it down to just the housing. The plan is to put new seals and bearings, 3.73 gears, (95) mustang 31 spline axles, new posi-trac carrier, (95) mustang front and rear brake kit. But the question I needed answered is will sn95 brake components bolt up to TC backet?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]88 Thunderbird Sport 302 H-pipe,flowmaster 50 series delta flow e303 cam GT40 upper and lower intake, GT40P heads, trick flow springs and rocker arms.

I can use some help with winter axle build.

Reply #1 –
Quote from: count;463992
I picked up an TC rear six mouths ago stripped it down to just the housing. The plan is to put new seals and bearings, 3.73 gears, (95) mustang 31 spline axles, new posi-trac carrier, (95) mustang front and rear brake kit. But the question I needed answered is will sn95 brake components bolt up to TC backet?


I know this subject has been covered in previous threads but in going through all the searches on the topic is still haven't got the the answer yet. Help please.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]88 Thunderbird Sport 302 H-pipe,flowmaster 50 series delta flow e303 cam GT40 upper and lower intake, GT40P heads, trick flow springs and rocker arms.

I can use some help with winter axle build.

Reply #2 –
If we are talking about the bracket that bolts up to the rear end then the answer is no.  The TC rear rotor is 10.17" in diameter while the SN95 rear rotor is 10.51" in diameter.  So immediately you have about a 0.17" difference in radius which affects the location of the caliper from the center of the axle.  Then there is the inboard/outboard locations of the rotors which are also different.  This one I do not have a measurement for but have physically seen the location difference is it driven off the ABS exciter ring for SN95 cars.  The difference is a huge difference in the caliper mounting bracket between the two which is what kills using the TC bracket.  This has to do with the holes on the TC axle bracket that the caliper bracket mounts to, they just don't line up.

My suggestion would be to source a set of the SN95 rear axle brackets like these:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/MUSTANG-REAR-DISC-BRAKE-CONVERSION-KIT-8-8-79-93-SN95-NEW-EDGE/253305686032?hash=item3afa320810:g:1~YAAOSwYc5aLeZi&vxp=mtr or these http://www.fordonlyparts.com/1994-2004-ford-mustang-rear-disc-brake-caliper-mount-backing-plate-brackets-lx-gt/.

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

I can use some help with winter axle build.

Reply #3 –
Quote from: Aerocoupe;463995
If we are talking about the bracket that bolts up to the rear end then the answer is no.  The TC rear rotor is 10.17" in diameter while the SN95 rear rotor is 10.51" in diameter.  So immediately you have about a 0.17" difference in radius which affects the location of the caliper from the center of the axle.  Then there is the inboard/outboard locations of the rotors which are also different.  This one I do not have a measurement for but have physically seen the location difference is it driven off the ABS exciter ring for SN95 cars.  The difference is a huge difference in the caliper mounting bracket between the two which is what kills using the TC bracket.  This has to do with the holes on the TC axle bracket that the caliper bracket mounts to, they just don't line up.

My suggestion would be to source a set of the SN95 rear axle brackets like these:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/MUSTANG-REAR-DISC-BRAKE-CONVERSION-KIT-8-8-79-93-SN95-NEW-EDGE/253305686032?hash=item3afa320810:g:1~YAAOSwYc5aLeZi&vxp=mtr or these http://www.fordonlyparts.com/1994-2004-ford-mustang-rear-disc-brake-caliper-mount-backing-plate-brackets-lx-gt/.

First, thanks Aerocoupe for replying, you and several other members are amazing resources! 
Now if I got this right, if I want to use sn95 brake components I have to replace the TC caliper bracket that's tack wielded to axle housing with caliper bracket from any mustang 94-04. 
And if I want to keep TC brackets then the only components I can use that will work are TC components.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]88 Thunderbird Sport 302 H-pipe,flowmaster 50 series delta flow e303 cam GT40 upper and lower intake, GT40P heads, trick flow springs and rocker arms.

I can use some help with winter axle build.

Reply #4 –
That is my understanding. On a side note, the SN95 GT/V6 axle brackets will not support the Cobra/Mach1 spec brakes. So if later down the road you want to make that upgrade keep this in mind. Another note would be that the bracket that affixes the caliper to the axle bracket is different between the GT/V6 brakes and the Cobra/Mach1 brakes. This bracket is readily available at the parts stores. The brake pads are different as well in that they are thinner.

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

I can use some help with winter axle build.

Reply #5 –
Thanks!  Aerocoupe  I’m pricing now!  I do plan to use the GT brakes.  That application would work best with what I want to do. I don’t see a lot of videos for mods to foxbody thunderbirds, I plan to video tape and post it on YouTube
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]88 Thunderbird Sport 302 H-pipe,flowmaster 50 series delta flow e303 cam GT40 upper and lower intake, GT40P heads, trick flow springs and rocker arms.

I can use some help with winter axle build.

Reply #6 –
Just drop by our local salvage yard and tell them you want the axles out on a 94-98 V6 Mustang.  This would be axles, axle bracket, caliper bracket, calipers (for cores), and a pair of rotors that will turn.  The calipers not matter what you think you are getting are just cores as who knows how long they have sat and how they were maintained prior to ending up at the recycler.  Anymore I just get new rotors as they are cheap enough but if you are on a tight budget you should be able to get a set that will turn and pay less.  I would get a set of axle bearings and seals when you swap out the calipers.  Now would be the time to rebuild the trac-lok in the 8.8 and you can get the Ford Performance Parts kit (P/N M-4700-C) all over the net for around $110 and it comes with friction modifier. Basically a Saturday to build the rear end if you don't break it all the way down and have the housing powder coated or painted (it is a nice touch though).

There are all kinds of videos on this with the Fox Mustangs and about the only thing that differs between the swaps is how to connect the e-brake.  You will need to find the parts from a TC to do this or get really creative.  Do a search as it has been covered on here a couple of times.

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

I can use some help with winter axle build.

Reply #7 –
I was going to go this same route a few years ago, but ended up going another direction. I did a lot of searching and found a company on line called discbrakesrus.com. They actually had some rotors that would work when you made the 5 lug axle swap and the rear calipers and brackets would not have to be changed. Been a few years, so I don't have the part numbers any more, but you can correspond with them and they can get you a rotor that should work.

I can use some help with winter axle build.

Reply #8 –
Looked at them as well and decided to go OEM so I could source my rotors locally and for a decent price. Other than that they have a great solution to the rotor issue. You still have to source five lug axles, curious what you ended up using.  My other reason was the availability to upgrade to the Cobra spec brakes later down the road.

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

I can use some help with winter axle build.

Reply #9 –
I ended up using a 9 in. rear out of a Lincoln Versailles, incorporated into a ladder bar 4 link set up. They come with disc brakes. Although, their disc system is pretty funky. The use of the parking brake keeps the rear brakes adjusted! I am pretty sure there were also some Granada models that had that rear as well.

I can use some help with winter axle build.

Reply #10 –
Quote from: 50RACER;464010
I was going to go this same route a few years ago, but ended up going another direction. I did a lot of searching and found a company on line called discbrakesrus.com. They actually had some rotors that would work when you made the 5 lug axle swap and the rear calipers and brackets would not have to be changed. Been a few years, so I don't have the part numbers any more, but you can correspond with them and they can get you a rotor that should work.
50RACER So if I'm reading this correctly there is a company that  has an 5 lug rear rotor will allow me to keep all my TC rear end components, so the only parts from the rear that will need to be changed would be the axles?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]88 Thunderbird Sport 302 H-pipe,flowmaster 50 series delta flow e303 cam GT40 upper and lower intake, GT40P heads, trick flow springs and rocker arms.

I can use some help with winter axle build.

Reply #11 –
Quote from: Aerocoupe;464011
Looked at them as well and decided to go OEM so I could source my rotors locally and for a decent price. Other than that they have a great solution to the rotor issue. You still have to source five lug axles, curious what you ended up using.  My other reason was the availability to upgrade to the Cobra spec brakes later down the road.

AEROCOUPE IF I'm guessing correctly I want to upgrade my brakes to have parts available in the future. Because TC disc brake components may not be as available as mustang parts in the future?
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]88 Thunderbird Sport 302 H-pipe,flowmaster 50 series delta flow e303 cam GT40 upper and lower intake, GT40P heads, trick flow springs and rocker arms.

I can use some help with winter axle build.

Reply #12 –
So here is what I was trying to say, if you go with the http://www.discbrakesrus.com option of the five lug rotors (they are simply new four lug rotors that are drilled for five lug) then these are not auto parts store available.  You would either have to over pay for them from disc brakes r us or buy some four lug rotors at a parts store and then have a machine shop drill them for five lug.  Scroll about 2/3 the way down and you will see the rotor/caliper package they sell (its around $700-$800 and they can go shag themselves) and you will see the rotor.  You will have to call them to get a price and to order the rotors separately.

http://www.discbrakesrus.com/make/ford/rearbrakekits4lugand5lug55.htm

I have had the following combinations of five lug on my cars:

With Stock MC and Stock Brake Booster
1) 11" Lincoln front rotors with Ranger rear axles and drum brakes - better than the stock 10" brakes that came factory but it still sucked.
2) 11" Lincoln front rotors with a TC conversion on the rear with redrilled rotors - not much difference than 1).

With SVO MC and Stock Brake Booster
3) 11" Lincoln front rotors with SVO calipers and the TC five lug conversion in the rear - worst combination ever, worse than 1) or 2).
4) same as above but with the stock combination valve gutted on the proportioning valve side and a manual proportioning valve installed - still sucked but was back to being like 2).

With 95 GT MC and 95 Mustang Brake Booster and Manual Proportioning Valve
5) 95 Mustang GT stock front brakes and 95 GT stock rear brakes - this is what our cars should have come with from factory.  Absolutely the best bang for the buck when upgrading braking systems.
6) 95 Cobra stock front brakes and 95 GT stock rear brakes - some improvement but not noticeable on the street
7) 95 Mustang Cobra stock front and rear brakes - no much improvement on the street but killed the brake fad issues on the track and look bad ass.

So with all of this said I will say what I have said over and over and over and over (see a pattern here?)...if you are going to move to five lug just suck it up and get the 94-98 SN95 GT/V6 brakes.  This would include the master cylinder, 1993 Cobra brake booster (keeps you from slotting the mounting holes on the firewall), a manual proportioning valve (several discussions on how to install), SS braded lines (not necessary but make a difference), and good pads.  Install, use a power bleeder like one from Motive (https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits/products/ford-asian-import-three-pr0ng-bleeder) to bleed the brakes, and bed the brakes in properly.  Here are a slew of bedding procedures so have fun reading:

https://www.google.com/search?safe=active&ei=gcFDWsG4I8mPmQG-q4WICg&q=brake+bedding+in+procedure&oq=brake+bedding+&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0i20i263k1j0l3j0i22i30k1l6.3899.6116.0.8889.14.12.0.0.0.0.442.1908.0j5j2j0j1.8.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..6.8.1899...35i39k1j0i67k1j0i20i263i264k1j0i10i67k1j0i10k1.0.j8fJiN7y2VA

Good luck and let us know which way you decide to go.

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp

I can use some help with winter axle build.

Reply #13 –
Thanks aerocoupe, Now my choice is clear!  I’m sticking with my original build

5 LUG CONVERSION

Brakes
-  Brake caliper kit (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1995,mustang,5.0l+v8,1134188,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper%2C+rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,14204) $320.62
- Ball joint (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1995,mustang,5.0l+v8,1134188,suspension,ball+joint,10070) $20
- Wheel hub and baring (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1995,mustang,5.0l+v8,1134188,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub,1636) $40
- Ring and pinion kit (https://lmr.com/item/LRS-4209FRB-K/Mustang-88-373-Ratio-Rear-End-Gear-Kit) $279
- 5 lug axles and differential kit (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1995,mustang,5.0l+v8,1134188,drivetrain,axle+shaft, 10439) $458.79
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]88 Thunderbird Sport 302 H-pipe,flowmaster 50 series delta flow e303 cam GT40 upper and lower intake, GT40P heads, trick flow springs and rocker arms.

I can use some help with winter axle build.

Reply #14 –
So can I ask why you want to run 31 spline axles?

83 351W TKO'd T-Bird on the bottle


93 331 Mustang Coupe - 368 rwhp