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Topic: Project Thunderstorm (Read 9118 times) previous topic - next topic

Project Thunderstorm

Reply #15
valve guides are something i don't mess with.. i prefer to let a machine shop handle it, since it's a bit of a sensitive area, especially in aluminum heads.. but if you remove it, a machine shop shouldn't charge you much to install a new 1 while you wait
ShadowMSC.com < < Still Under Construction

R.I.P. 'Zump' 8/29/86 - 11/11/11
3- 87 TC's / 1 really mean 83 Capri RS / 94 Sonoma SAS Project on 37x12.50 TSL Radials / 88 S10 that's LITERALLY cut to pieces / 84 F150 SAS, 351M, 39.5 TSL's / 85 Toyota regular cab, 22R 5spd, 3/4" drop, my little junkyard save/daily driver

Project Thunderstorm

Reply #16
i like that rear spoiler...more pics please :)

Project Thunderstorm

Reply #17
Nice project I'm hoping that you will inspire me to get moving on mine:) The louvers are money please keep them!

Project Thunderstorm

Reply #18
I like the louvers too. I'm one of the rare people to have them on my 88. I doubt I'll ever take them off of it.

Project Thunderstorm

Reply #19
Again, Pretty Embarrassed to say the engine has still been half apart.
BUT!
I got a kick in butt when I went out to check on things and oil down/fog the engine.
Found a rodent had been trying to drag  across and possibly into the block... I found a half a nutshell sitting in the valley... Rust spots occurred in middle cylinder on drivers side and in the valley a bit.
Moisture levels are high around Here + excessive NW Rain, If I were to block off passages with rags they would get rusty so I just left them open and kept fogging and oiling occasionally.

While having a brand new looking set of machined heads sitting in my basp00get, With a Complete gasket set and I thought brand new box of Head Bolts... To Be Continued...

I spent hours doing damage control, with the intent to get the Head on.
Please correct me if I used wrong methods, So I know what to do in the future.
I'm self taught at this stuff, With some old school advice from my Father and web searches when totally unsure but that always comes with various results for different applications.

I didn't have enough room to run a roloc disc on a drill, Our compressor is spitting watery oil even through the (Harbor freight, Ew) Filters, So I didn't want to go that route with an angle tool+Roloc.
So I sed the minimal gasket material with a very careful pile of sharp razors and I got out my dremel and a wire bristle tip on low settings then double and triple checked being careful with razors. I can run a razor over every part and its nice and flat. I was extremely careful and had the shop vac sucking up crud.
Mostly the razors did the work, I'm feeling the like wire bristle just sort of polished. I'm going to try a scotchbrite pad carefully just as a last go over.

I used WD40 and 2000 grit sand paper on the rust spots very carefully until they didn't catch my fingernail and felt flush and smooth~Really wrong thing to do or no? I had no steel wool and stores were closed. This is where I'm hoping it doesn't come back to haunt me.

Just wire brushed the valley, Got all the stuff that was gonna come up to do just that, I assume I shouldn't be worried with this area.

Cleaned out any and all crud I found, WD40, Shop towels, Fingers and Shop vac.

Continued>Then the thought struck me as I was going to run a tap through the bolt holes~What did I do with the head bolts?! Dun dun dun...

Needless to say I couldn't find the box of brand new head bolts anywhere, And to make things worse none of the local parts stores have them in stock.
My best bet is O'reillys MIGHT have 24hour delivery on them, I'll find out later today.

So yet again, She sits, With her engine now marred from critters and attempted rust, And half naked until I can get some head bolts. Sigh.
Here is a sad shot:

I didn't clean the tops of the cylinders, use a scotchbrite pad (Should I just not?) or run taps yet.
I don't know if soaking the valley and block with WD40 is bad or not, But I know for sure it's better than rust. And I know I need to use brake cleaner and/or alcohol with a rag when I set the gasket.

I had good results coating the head gaskets with copper spray when I did them on our '94 V6 Astro Van, I also used the 2000 grit method in one of the cylinders that had a cracked head and some slight water spots, And compression is great almost 2,000 Miles later.
So I'm thinking I'll do that again with the copper coat, Even though these blue and grey felpro gaskets are pretty thick. Has anyone had to clean up after doing this, Then removing the head later. And how bad was it with the copper coat remains?

I will certainly be flushing the coolant and draining the oil (Maybe drop the pan?) before even thinking of trying to start it.

I just hope it still runs OK in the end for awhile. I've always planned on sticking a V8 in there at some point anyway.
I know I'm probably going to get some Backlash... But I do what I can, With what I have available to me, When I have time. And I do my Best.

PS: Am I supposed to replace the dowel pins?
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Project Thunderstorm

Reply #20
2 questions, Need an answers quick please:
1: ) Do I need to replace the dowel pins (2x in the block side).
2: ) And which side of FelPro gaskets faces upward? Pic:

Both sides are facing the printed "FRONT", Did I get a mismatch, Or is this normal for them?

I didn't have this issue with Victor Reinz... :wtf:
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Project Thunderstorm

Reply #21
As you can see in the block picture and also on my new heads, There are water jacket openings...
As you see above one end is blocked, I don't have the original gasket and I REALLY don't want to block wrong passages.

Lil' Help? Please.
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Project Thunderstorm

Reply #22
front goes forward no matter if the gasket has to be flipped on the opposing side to do so otherwise FRONT means FRONT lol

and yes you must have the dowels in place
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1974 maverick lsx powered turbo car SOLD
1973 maverick Tijuana Taxi Tribute
1957 chevy LSX Turbo project (race car)
Owner of Joe Dirt Fabrication

Project Thunderstorm

Reply #23
THANK YOU SLEEPER.
So water passages on the REAR it seems. Positive? I want so badly for this to end well.
Front of the engine is the belt/accessory side, Correct? Just checking... And yes one would be need to be flipped, which seems odd to me since blue line side is flat and gray side has raised areas. I'll go Victor Reinz next time.

The original Dowels are in place and cleaned up, I was just wondering if it was necessary to replace them as was the bolts.

PS: I went in around 9am on Saturday to O'Reilly Autos and the guy said he would have them sent to the store by 4pm (They arrived just after 1pm). So props to them on that! I was figuring at least a 1 full day or more.
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

 

Project Thunderstorm

Reply #24
front of engine is where the belts are, front of gasket always faces this direction, and the gasket lines are just a design the v8 ones are the same way also

nothing odd about it thats why they mark them "front" ive put hundreds of felpro's on with no issues



Quote from: Romeo2k;409065
THANK YOU SLEEPER.
So water passages on the REAR it seems. Positive? I want so badly for this to end well.
Front of the engine is the belt/accessory side, Correct? Just checking... And yes one would be need to be flipped, which seems odd to me since blue line side is flat and gray side has raised areas. I'll go Victor Reinz next time.

The original Dowels are in place and cleaned up, I was just wondering if it was necessary to replace them as was the bolts.

PS: I went in around 9am on Saturday to O'Reilly Autos and the guy said he would have them sent to the store by 4pm (They arrived just after 1pm). So props to them on that! I was figuring at least a 1 full day or more.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
1974 maverick lsx powered turbo car SOLD
1973 maverick Tijuana Taxi Tribute
1957 chevy LSX Turbo project (race car)
Owner of Joe Dirt Fabrication

Project Thunderstorm

Reply #25
Thanks again!
Whats your thought on copper coating them (Spray can)? And Do you know if it cleans up fine if I end up havng to take the head off again? Seems like it has the potential to be messy... Though worked well on the Astro Van.

I'm going over my "New" Heads, Got them from A.R.S. Machine shop on ebay awhile back.
They look spray painted silver but the mating surfaces look nicely machined, and theres no overspray on the springs and such. Hrm.
I cant find my spring compressor, But there is particle crud in a couple valve openings and the valve keepers look re-used, As is all the other metal parts...
Making me wonder if they did a valve job or lapped at the least or even replaced the seals. Urgh.
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Project Thunderstorm

Reply #26
Valve keepers can safely be reused, unless of course something happened to them previously where they might have been broken or something. If you were putting together a 10,000 dollar engine now, probably new ones would be planned for ;)

Just keep everything clean, and double check to make sure you don't drop a bolt or nut into the engine during any part of it. And keep asking questions...no shame in that. No matter if you're been into cars for 2 months, or 25 years, you can learn something new every day if you've got an open mind.
'84 Mustang
'98 Explorer 5.0
'03 Focus, dropped a valve seat. yay. freakin' split port engines...
'06 Explorer EB 4.6

Project Thunderstorm

Reply #27
Thanks!

I found my makeshift spring compressor.
Got first 2 valves apart and they look OK.
Though, They may not have done a Valve job~Can't quiet tell, And the particle (And residue) junk may be from lapping.

Still not sure if the valve seals were replaced or just dirty from the shop.
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Project Thunderstorm

Reply #28
Pics:



Note: There is a perfect faint light line all the way around on these (Look closely), Is that just where it hits?

Everything look acceptable to you guys?

PS: Random question~What weight oil do you guys use or suggest? Just 10w-30?
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~

Project Thunderstorm

Reply #29
Yes, No, Maybe?
Don't be afraid to chime in...
~Project ThunderStorm = '84 Charcoal Thunderbird - First Car - Long Time Work in Progress~
~Project (No Name Yet) = 1970 Plymouth GTX/RR "Clone"~