86 thunderbird 5.0

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86 thunderbird 5.0

December 22, 2016, 07:04:12 PM

I bought this car as a project for $300 bucks and it has sat for 15 years before I got it, the stock engine just does not make enough power for me and I hate autos I'm thinking about a ls swap has anyone done this to they're car or is there a reasonably priced way to make mine faster and swap in a manual transmission? I'm just brain storming at the moment and would like some other people's opinions and insight they've gained from their own projects. Thanks in advance.

86 thunderbird 5.0

Reply #1 – December 22, 2016, 09:43:04 PM

Search coolcats.net and read up on the h.o. Upgrade. Basically once you do a h.o. Upgrade, everything yo can do to a mustang will basically bolt in, engine wise.

I threw a sn-95 t-5 in my car, cost me about $400 total and made a dradtic difference in how fun the car was.

86 thunderbird 5.0

Reply #2 – December 22, 2016, 10:33:52 PM

Does the wiring plugs match up from the mustang or is it a harness Ecu swap as well?

86 thunderbird 5.0

Reply #3 – December 22, 2016, 11:27:15 PM

Select your HO parts carefully. You WILL need a different EEC (Electronic Engine Control) for an HO engine as the firing order and by proxy, the injection order is different. If you don't go crazy, you should be able to stay speed density with no need to convert to Mass Air. I'd recommend a stock HO cam (necessary at minimum) 19# per hour injectors (also required, but it is not recommended to go larger unless you're willing to have to have the ECU tuned), E7 heads (I'd recommend 3 bar GT40 heads from 96-early 97 Explorer), and depending on your heads, either a HO upper intake and throttle body, or a complete upper and lower from 96 or early 97 Explorer (aftermarket 65mm EGR cooler and throttle body recommended unless you can fab). The intake that goes with the later GT40P heads doesn't use internal EGR, and some guys have trouble with the way the vacuum ports interact with tall HO valve covers (not required). Required also will be headers. You can use the stockers from an HO car, but you're better off with a set of 1 5/8 shorties from the aftermarket. That brings me to my NEXT point, once you go HO, you're going to have to change your entire exhaust. The headers won't fit the Y-pipe. The flares aren't big enough, and the s aren't wide enough. You're going to need an H-pipe. The minimum here is the stock part from a Mark VII, but you'll be happier with either a stock unit from a Mustang or a good aftermarket 2.5" unit. After that, the lers and tails from a 87-88 car will fit fine (since you have an 86 car, you'll have to either add, or improvise right side hangers), you can go bigger if you want, but you'll have to go to stinger performance for bigger tails that fit. In between, you'll want Mustang intermediates, but you're going to have to add a little pipe to them to make them long enough. Speaking of long enough, the oxygen sensors will either have to be extended or replaced with ones for a HO car such as Mustang or Mark VII, they're just not long enough, seeing as how the O2 ports are now in the H-pipe (or X-pipe if you go that way) instead of the manifold. The wiring shouldn't have to be touched otherwise, but you will have to rearrange the plug wires on the distributor. After that, you'll probably want to pop for a fuel pump that can hack it with the higher fuel demand. Guys only have good things to say about the Walbro 255.

You now have between 215 and 285 horse depending on parts selection. Much higher than that and you're talking about heads and cams again, as well as fuel injectors, MAF and tuning. Ask me how I know.

86 thunderbird 5.0

Reply #4 – December 23, 2016, 10:48:16 AM

You should go read thru my build thread of my 83 "GTBird" as it will answer alot of your questions ,with pix and results.

For the money Id just go pick up a compete Explorer gt40p motor. Swap your front accessories from old motor to new motor, early TC clutch pedal swap, drop a t5 in it and enjoy!

Also look into a MicroSquirt plug and play from EFI Source like I did to run it.

86 thunderbird 5.0

Reply #5 – December 23, 2016, 10:52:07 AM

You should go read thru my build thread of my 83 "GTBird" as it will answer alot of your questions ,with pix and results.
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?39536-My-GTbird-build

For the money Id just go pick up a compete Explorer gt40p motor. Swap your front accessories from old motor to new motor, early TC clutch pedal swap, drop a t5 in it and enjoy!

Also look into a MicroSquirt plug and play from EFI Source like I did to run it.

86 thunderbird 5.0

Reply #6 – December 23, 2016, 11:16:48 AM

Quote from: deathbypsi;458620

You should go read thru my build thread of my 83 "GTBird" as it will answer alot of your questions ,with pix and results.
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?39536-My-GTbird-build

For the money Id just go pick up a compete Explorer gt40p motor. Swap your front accessories from old motor to new motor, early TC clutch pedal swap, drop a t5 in it and enjoy!

Also look into a MicroSquirt plug and play from EFI Source like I did to run it.

I disagree, with a fox car, you should avoid the P engine, it requires special headers or janky spark plugs and boots to clear non P headers. I know this from experience. If I had been smarter, I'd have kept my non P gt40 heads and had less hassle both with my build, and subsequent service. On top of that, adapting the Explorer's oil cooler to work with the long nose accessory drive is sketchy.

86 thunderbird 5.0

Reply #7 – December 23, 2016, 11:50:47 AM

I have none of the issues you list.

Regular BBK long tube headers fit perfect and clear everything like factory. I then built my own unique exhaust system.

P heads out flow e7 heads by almost 30cfm and thats huge. Much more power potential with the P heads as long as the springs are upgraded.

The oil cooler you just dont use. Remove it all and install the normal thread insert in the block for a stock location filter.

86 thunderbird 5.0

Reply #8 – December 23, 2016, 02:57:49 PM

What I'm saying about P heads, is that they aren't better than regular Gt40 heads, they don't flow more, they don't swirl more, they just have crazy spark plug angles that make everything suck. Both GT40 and GT40P heads are equally superior to E7 heads, P's are just harder to work with. I have P heads and non P headers. I have to use foil tape on #7 spark plug boot, and if I want to change my plugs, I have to pull the header. Avoid P heads unless you buy the P specific headers (if you can find them).

86 thunderbird 5.0

Reply #9 – December 23, 2016, 02:59:43 PM

And P heads have smaller exhaust valves and valve springs that have to be upgraded. My non P heads, when I had them, didn't need the springs upgraded. Gt40 (non P) are just easier to bolt on.

86 thunderbird 5.0

Reply #10 – December 24, 2016, 09:59:19 AM

I understand its a personal choice but Im just making another option known.

I bought a 100% complete 97 Explorer motor cheaper than I have seen a set off real GT40 heads sell for. For my $250 investment I got a good shortblock, GT40 intakes,roller cam,65mm TB and for $130 bought a valvespring upgrade kit for the heads.

You can find lists on the web of headers that will work with P heads, you are not stuck using P specific headers only. I bought a 10yr old set of BBK 1-3/4 long tubes off a friend who pulled them off his 85GT with Twisted Wedge heads. These fit perfect with no boots even close to getting burned. $100 investment.

I love the GT40P motors as a starting point because 98% of them were in soccer mom kid transporters than hardly ever seen a hard life.

86 thunderbird 5.0

Reply #11 – December 27, 2016, 11:02:52 AM

Go find a 5.0 Coyote motor out of an F150, swap the intake cams over to the 5.0 Mustang cams, buy the Ford control pack for the motor, install a six speed manual trans and have some fun. Sounds like you were not opposed to spending some coin with the LS swap so why not keep it a Ford. The 5.0 Coyote motor responds to compressed air really well so add a turbo and intercooler and 800 rwhp on a stock motor is achievable and it just looks shaging cool.

There is a little more to it than that but do the research and you will see that it can be done for a reasonable amount of money and no pushrod 5.0 will stay with it. Pour equal amounts of $$$ into a pushrod 5.0 and a Coyote 5.0 and one will soon see the ways of the overhead cam motor darkness.